Advice on wiring configuration of 4-200ah li-time batteries

[Dadoftheturkeykids]

Ok, quick recap.. So I have been running this setup for over a year now, with zero issues.
(See picture)
The only thing that has changed, is I have a class-T on the positive inverter lead instead of that junk black breaker
(bottom-left)

I want to "tidy-up" my battery wiring, as to...

1)Have batteries in normal orientation instead of standing on-end

2) make all cabling equal lengths on my paralell configuration(battery-interconnection)

3)Replace the junk black breakers with MRBF fuses on all the 4/0 cabling from positive battery connections

4)Replace the barely sufficient buss bars with overly capable beefy copper bar stock


My question is solely asking what is the most efficient design y'all can think of to paralell these 4 batteries given their size and dimensions. This was the best I could come up with a year ago, but you can see the cable lengths differ slightly, and the batteries are standing on-end. I would like to streamline it more. My brain is still having a hard time thinking of the best "roadway" considering the battery posts are on the long-end of each battery (and closely spaced)

I understand I may have to abandon my entertainment center mounting approach because the batteries just won't fit any other direction (I think)

I don't need to compute amps, cable sizing, wiring instructions or ampacity.

I literally just need to brainstorm a "roadway" for my cabling

Thanks

 

[42OhmsPA]

I'd run + and - central buss bars in front of the terminals.
Short leads from each - terminal and MRBF to the buss bars.

 

[Dadoftheturkeykids]

I'd run + and - central buss bars in front of the terminals.
Short leads from each - terminal and MRBF to the buss bars.

Like run a short lead to a + horizontal bussbar,
and a slightly longer lead (under + buss) to a - horizontal bussbar?

 

[timselectric]

I would put the MRBF on each terminal. Positive ones facing north and negative ones facing south. Then run a single copper bar across the tops of the fuses. One for Positive and one for negative. The only downside would be replacing a single fuse if the battery terminals are studs (no problem if bolts) . But if that's needed, you probably have other problems to worry about.
Put heat shrink on the busbar, between connection points, for safety.

 

[42OhmsPA]

Like run a short lead to a + horizontal bussbar,
and a slightly longer lead (under + buss) to a - horizontal bussbar?

You got it.

 

[Dadoftheturkeykids]

Thanks for the input guys

Now, I'm wondering... how far should positive, and negative contacts be from eachother for no chance of arcing? Especially bussbars, because lugs/MRBF holder would possibly be even closer to the opposing bussbar.

I would put the MRBF on each terminal. Positive ones facing north and negative ones facing south. Then run a single copper bar across the tops of the fuses. One for Positive and one for negative. The only downside would be replacing a single fuse if the battery terminals are studs (no problem if bolts) . But if that's needed, you probably have other problems to worry about.
Put heat shrink on the busbar, between connection points, for safety.

So, you are suggesting fusing both terminals, and using no cabling? They are bolt terminals so that could work, but no negative effects of fusing both terminals? Like resistance? It does seem like a possible way to keep conductor material identical for all connections.

I like the idea of heat shrink on the bussbar

 

[42OhmsPA]

I would think a few inches would be more than enough but I'm not an expert in that area.
I would put a flexible insulating sheet between them for extra safety.
I'd mount them at least 6" above the terminal / MRBF so you have a nice sweeping arc and aren't stressing the cable.

 

[Dadoftheturkeykids]

Another question, MRBF holders can be oriented either way, correct?
I.e. It doesn't matter which end of the holder is mounted to the bussbar

 

[42OhmsPA]

I'd mount the MRBF to the battery positive not the busbar.

 

[timselectric]

So, you are suggesting fusing both terminals, and using no cabling? They are bolt terminals so that could work, but no negative effects of fusing both terminals? Like resistance? It does seem like a possible way to keep conductor material identical for all connections.

You can just use the fuse holders on the negative side (without fuses). Or use short pieces of bus bar. Using the holders would be easier and a cleaner look.