All busbar s not created equal

chrisski

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In my new battery build, I was going to use a busbar I did not on my last build and found that this cheaper busbar had screws on that do not allow connection of the 4/0 lugs I would like to use. This shows the bottom 4/0 lug does not fit between the screws that secure the busbar to the plastic. The top 6 AWG lug does.
9051F9B4-C234-4F17-A099-F4D6EA06308E.jpeg
This picture shows if I go down a size to 2/0, the lug fits between the screws
232B2742-FA23-4392-BDB8-DFDB1C7451E0.jpeg
Devil is in the details for these builds. Since I have time until the batteries show up, I’ll order a better busbar. If I waited until build day, the dremel would have come out to force the fit.
 

jwelter99

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In my new battery build, I was going to use a busbar I did not on my last build and found that this cheaper busbar had screws on that do not allow connection of the 4/0 lugs I would like to use. This shows the bottom 4/0 lug does not fit between the screws that secure the busbar to the plastic. The top 6 AWG lug does.
View attachment 56646
This picture shows if I go down a size to 2/0, the lug fits between the screws
View attachment 56647
Devil is in the details for these builds. Since I have time until the batteries show up, I’ll order a better busbar. If I waited until build day, the dremel would have come out to force the fit.

Remove the screws and it should work?
 

chrisski

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Remove the screws and it should work?
Tempting, but if I have to remove the screws to get it to work, I think I probably need to buy a new busbar. This would keep me up at night after driving around in the RV.

To me the metal plate looks kind of small to be rated to 250 amps. I also. Wonder if this is really tinned copper or some sort of stainless steel or other metal. The Studs are also captive screws so they wiggle around until tightened. Removing that one screw would secure the bus bar less to the plastic with three screw instead of four holding it down. That’s what I’d lose sleep over.
 

chrisski

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I may go with something like that. Red for the positive side and black for the negative side.

Whether its brass or copper, I’m not sure if it makes a difference. I bought my other busbar expecting tinned copper, but I have doubts and no way to tell unles I drill it.

I see 300 amp max, but I don’t know if that is contiguous or max peak rating. It also says 12 volts, and don’t know what that means for my 24 volt system I’m using.
 

chrisski

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Blue Sea Systems 2127 Maxibus BusBar 250 Amps
Thanks. I have ordered two of these with two covers. I am a big fan of Blue Sea, and that price is fantastic.

Nothing a rat tail file won't fix.
Then the terminals won't rotate under the nut. It's not a bug, its a feature!
I can't bring myself to cut a notch in the lug with a Dremel with so much time until these batteries come in.

=================================

Both of these busbars are rated to 250 amps. The one I'm not using on the left you can see it is not as well constructed as the Blue Sea on the Right.
1626559546492.png
There were were some odd comments and questions from buyers of the busbar on the left like, "I'm installing this behind my battery. Do I really need to secure it or can I leave it back there loose?" Kind of makes me hesitant to use the non-Blue Sea one when I see comments like that. Why would anyone want to leave a 250 amp busbar loose under the hood of a car next to a battery?
 

Hedges

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Slight difference in thickness between those two!
 

chrisski

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Slight difference in thickness between those two!
Yeah I'm not up on my busbar ampacity, but the one on the left makes it look like the 250 amps may be rated for peak and not continuous.
 

Supervstech

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Pyrofx

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Thanks. I have ordered two of these with two covers. I am a big fan of Blue Sea, and that price is fantastic.


I can't bring myself to cut a notch in the lug with a Dremel with so much time until these batteries come in.

=================================

Both of these busbars are rated to 250 amps. The one I'm not using on the left you can see it is not as well constructed as the Blue Sea on the Right.
View attachment 56664
There were were some odd comments and questions from buyers of the busbar on the left like, "I'm installing this behind my battery. Do I really need to secure it or can I leave it back there loose?" Kind of makes me hesitant to use the non-Blue Sea one when I see comments like that. Why would anyone want to leave a 250 amp busbar loose under the hood of a car next to a battery?
Sorry. If that keeps you awake at night . Try melatonin.
It's a tiny notch. Like Hedge said , antirotation features.
 

jwelter99

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Tempting, but if I have to remove the screws to get it to work, I think I probably need to buy a new busbar. This would keep me up at night after driving around in the RV.

To me the metal plate looks kind of small to be rated to 250 amps. I also. Wonder if this is really tinned copper or some sort of stainless steel or other metal. The Studs are also captive screws so they wiggle around until tightened. Removing that one screw would secure the bus bar less to the plastic with three screw instead of four holding it down. That’s what I’d lose sleep over.

Those smaller bolts are for smaller ring terminals. They are not to keep the busbar assembled. Removing them will do no harm and make room for your lugs.

Busbars are sadly a "you get what you pay for" part. To get good ones you pay more than what seems reasonable unfortunately.
 

Supervstech

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Those smaller bolts are for smaller ring terminals. They are not to keep the busbar assembled. Removing them will do no harm and make room for your lugs.

Busbars are sadly a "you get what you pay for" part. To get good ones you pay more than what seems reasonable unfortunately.
On that bussbar, it looks like the small screws hold the plastic cover on, which also holds the studs in place. Without the screws, the plastic surround would be floppy.
 

chrisski

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Those smaller bolts are for smaller ring terminals. They are not to keep the busbar assembled. Removing them will do no harm and make room for your lugs.
Right you are on the screws being for smaller Gauge wire. There's four 5/16ths studs and three #6 screws. Removing all three does not make the bus bar loose. Those two big screws secure the bus bar to the plastic.
1626630080829.png
I'm going to install the Blue Sea's I ordered, but here is the link to the one I've been talking about.


This R2X Racing is not copper; its nickel coated brass.
 

HRTKD

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Just put a washer under the lug and it will fit OK.
rotfl3.gif
 

CopperBusbar

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The amperage is probably right, you just don't have the surface area to make those connections.

Is there enough room to do a real busbar?
 

chrisski

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Is there enough room to do a real busbar?
I appreciate the reply on this. I see this is rated to 2.5 kv, but does not list AC or DC.

Is that type busbar you'd use to use voltages of 56 volts?
 

HRTKD

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The listing for that bus bar is kind of goofy. The measurements of 25" x 2" x 10" caught my eye. What they meant was .25" x 2" x 10".

Further down, they list it as rated for 710 amps. AC or DC? Does it matter? Serious question. It's non-mechanical, unlike a circuit breaker, so I'm not sure that AC or DC matters. At some point, voltage would seem to matter, but I don't have any idea on that.

Are the brackets really stainless steel? They look like galvanized steel to me.
 
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