Care to explain? Colder? Less dense air across the fins?all air-air heat pumps loose efficiency with ALTITUDE as well as low temps (for heating).
Less dense air. It effects the efficiency of the heat transfer.Care to explain? Colder? Less dense air across the fins?
Turbo charger.Couldn't altitude be compensated for by running outdoor fan faster, or rigging a second fan?
One thing that some window air conditioners do I spray some of the evaporating water at the condenser. But that doesn't work well for heatingLess dense air. It effects the efficiency of the heat transfer.
Maybe, but have not heard of any units doing this. You'd have to run the fan faster on the inside unit as well, which might create noise issues.Couldn't altitude be compensated for by running outdoor fan faster, or rigging a second fan?
Why is an air to water heat pump better than a $600 mini split. Please explainI just don't get the attraction of mini-splits of any flavor.
Air-to-water heat pump, and hydronic fan coil air handlers. A/C in Summer, space heat in Winter, and dynamically heats DHW at the same time. Brands: Arctic, Midea, LG, MBTek, SpacePak, or trace their Chinese manufacturer and buy on Alibaba. Signs of quality: CoP approaching 5, and R-290.
Those are not the batteries I would be looking at if I were looking for batteries, even if the same sizeWould love to use an indoor AIO like that but unfortunately had critical specs I needed to hit for an inverter. Function at 8k ft, -20F operating temp + outdoor IP 65 NEMA 4 rated. Though after this discussion and everyone's great advice I believe I'm dumping the entire idea of the large electric upgrade. Love the advice in the midnight batteries thank you, will definitely check them out. Batteries will be stored inside and then cable run through the wall to the inverter outside. (it's a small space, can't ladle the loud buzzing — wife will kill me ha!
Air to water (really soil) heat pumps are more effective for heating in cold climates. The water/soil generally stays at a constant temp (around 50F here) over the winter, and much better for extracting heat. The big BUT is it is very expensive to drill the well or dig down to lay the pipes, which is why most folks don't use them. Recently a neighbor spent like $60K just drilling the wells for such a system.Why is an air to water heat pump better than a $600 mini split. Please explain
average temperature below frost line is around 55F year round, these geothermal heat-pumps need only to raise about 30F, even when outside air is below freezingWhy is an air to water heat pump better than a $600 mini split. Please explain
Damn! 60k? Is there any roi for such a system? Ouch!Air to water (really soil) heat pumps are more effective for heating in cold climates. The water/soil generally stays at a constant temp (around 50F here) over the winter, and much better for extracting heat. The big BUT is it is very expensive to drill the well or dig down to lay the pipes, which is why most folks don't use them. Recently a neighbor spent like $60K just drilling the wells for such a system.
Another consideration, for cold climates, if you are not also running AC during the summer, you will end up cooling the soil around your well/pipes during the heating season and not reheating during AC season, which will require more soil/well area to compensate.
I would have called it water to air heat pump.Air to water (really soil) heat pumps are more effective for heating in cold climates. The water/soil generally stays at a constant temp (around 50F here) over the winter, and much better for extracting heat. The big BUT is it is very expensive to drill the well or dig down to lay the pipes, which is why most folks don't use them. Recently a neighbor spent like $60K just drilling the wells for such a system.
Another consideration, for cold climates, if you are not also running AC during the summer, you will end up cooling the soil around your well/pipes during the heating season and not reheating during AC season, which will require more soil/well area to compensate.
I believe it’s 18in thick — thermal mass is an amazing thing and new concept for me : ) definitely gets windy at certain times of the year. We’re very close to Sand Dune NPhow thick is the straw bale wall ? with such amazing insulation, passive solar and mini-split would work so well. Does it getting windy there ? seems likely from the photo.
Great feedback. We’re at 8k ft which has made several things more complicated. One of the reasons I was considering overspending on the new inverter. Though I’m opting for propane solution now. Really seems like the smartest option.Just thought I'd point out, with all the talk here about mini-splits, all air-air heat pumps loose efficiency with ALTITUDE as well as low temps (for heating). It is something that most folks know know or think about, since it does not effect them.
Be sure to look at the stats for whichever mini-split you are considering to see how well they will perform if you live at 5,000' or more of elevation. Probably will still work but also will be switching over to resistance heating strips far sooner than it would at lower elevations.
Right. Can’t cheat physics. At some point no matter the equipment there will be a limit to their ability to heat.Less dense air. It affects the efficiency of the heat transfer.
I’m wide open to suggestions if you have any in mind that I should look at. The midnight 100 ah 5.2Kw server rack style batteries have been suggested.Those are not the batteries I would be looking at if I were looking for batteries, even if the same size
Oh wow! That’s incredible. I had no idea you could do that.Also - I would take the flooded batteries that are not working very well -- and recondition them ... its relatively pretty straight forward ... mainly drain the acid out of the existing batteries ... flush the cells very well with water -- followed by either rain water or distilled water ... then get yourself one of those 5 gallon containers of battery acid from a local auto store -- I think we pay something like $27 for 2.5 or 5 gallons for the premixed (can't remember) ...if its already premixed then pour it in the battery directly ... if its pure then you need to dilute it ... bang it with something a few times to get the bubbles out ... then put a 48V welder or equal on it to just shock the crap out of it ... we do 5 minutes on -- five off ... for about an 50 minutes ... and then slow charge it ... we have been able to restore about 1/2 the "abandoned" batteries that way and they literally work like new ...
BUT check YOUTUBE for better instructions ...
That sounds like work. I have a success rate better than 50% by just using the welder. No need to play with acid or flush the cells.Also - I would take the flooded batteries that are not working very well -- and recondition them ... its relatively pretty straight forward ... mainly drain the acid out of the existing batteries ... flush the cells very well with water -- followed by either rain water or distilled water ... then get yourself one of those 5 gallon containers of battery acid from a local auto store -- I think we pay something like $27 for 2.5 or 5 gallons for the premixed (can't remember) ...if its already premixed then pour it in the battery directly ... if its pure then you need to dilute it ... bang it with something a few times to get the bubbles out ... then put a 48V welder or equal on it to just shock the crap out of it ... we do 5 minutes on -- five off ... for about an 50 minutes ... and then slow charge it ... we have been able to restore about 1/2 the "abandoned" batteries that way and they literally work like new ...
BUT check YOUTUBE for better instructions ...
Any decent heat pump would compensate for this as it's monitoring internal telemetry. Newer ones run the fan (and compressor) using PWM so would speed up at higher altitudes to normalize the system. All DC.Less dense air. It effects the efficiency of the heat transfer.
Why is an air to water heat pump better than a $600 mini split. Please explain
Mini splits are very efficient and allow for zoning of living spaces. Installation easily done, no duct work involved. Very little power used as it is only heating/cooling the space it is installed.
An air to water heat pump with hydronic radiant heat can be more efficient but won't work well for cooling in a humid environment unless a hydronic air handler is used as you mentioned. A hydronic coil air handler can be zoned like the mini split and is also efficient but installation costs are not cheap. Down the road, if the coil fails, you will have water damage. A central coil handler doesn't zone well but the only water damage might be the air handler.
Back in my high school days, the school had hydronic air handlers. I can remember the problems one year as the system would start leaking water and the janitors would be running around with mops cleaning up the mess. Good thing it was concrete floors and the building design had the air handlers in the middle of hallways and along the walls.
I like my mini splits. Having said that, the plan here is eventual air to water heat pump with thermal storage for radiant heat. I'd still use mini's for cooling.