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diy solar

Am I doing this right?

itsmenessa

New Member
Joined
Apr 28, 2025
Messages
26
Location
Southern California
Hi! 👋 Newbie here 😬 I apologize in advance for the very long post, but I need a final GO! from more knowledgeable people (you:)) before moving on with my purchases. I’ve already received my panels (4 x 200w Shadowflux) and the tilts, and will be using (mostly) Victron components for the rest. I’m still undecided on the brand of 24v batteries I’ll be getting (Epoch obviously being my first choice, but I might have to start with Litime if I run out of funds). I’m Including my location/living situation/van info, the items I will be using solar for, and the list of components I plan on buying (excluding cables/wiring for now). I know I may be including TOO much info, but I also see lots of people saying there’s NOT enough info to properly answer these type posts, so I’ve given as much info as I can for that reason. Please let me know if my chosen components are the correct/best choices. I’ve watched HOURS of Will’s YouTube vids, but these items are NOT cheap (I’ll be scouring MP/OfferUp/Craigslist/Ebay etc. for any deals), so I REALLY don’t want to mess this up, especially as returning items purchased from individuals is not possible.

Info on my van/living situation:

I’ll be living in my van full time. It’s a 2017, 170wb, high roof, passenger sprinter van (lots of windows, I know 🥲), but I’ll be properly insulating and blocking out 2 of my 6 side windows). I’m located in SoCal and will be staying in the SW U.S. area 99% of the time. It’s just me and my dog. I’m DIY’ing my entire build..alone 🙃

Things that will be operating on solar (excluding the actual solar components):

-Small (3.3 c.f.) recpro 12V, 20 amp rated max (fridge only). I will eventually upgrade to a fridge/freezer combo when I can afford it, but staying approx. at that same size, maybe a tad larger.
-One Maxxair fan (7500K Deluxe model)
-One Sirocco II Caframo fan 12/24V
-One Safe T alert gas alarm
-3 x 15 amp Outlets with built in usb/usb-c for charging phones/laptops, wireless projector etc.
-One Shurflo 4008-101-E65 Revolution Water Pump
- Six to eight 12v, Dimmable LED puck lights
- 32 ft. of LED strip lights w/12v power supply
- Starlink mini
- I will be using a couple kitchen appliances minimally (a Vitamix for 1-2 minutes a day, a cuisinart mixer for a few minutes 1-2 times/week, a nespresso milk frother for a couple minutes a few times a week, a Ninja Creami Deluxe 1-2 times a week.
-My stove/oven combo and tankless/on demand water heater will be running on propane.
- Eventually (ASAP), I will be adding a rooftop A/C, but will only be running it a couple hours a day during peak heat hours in the summer months. I plan on having an awning, parking as much of my van in the shade as possible without obstructing my panels as much as I can (thus the choice of purchasing the Shadowflux panels w/tilts), and will also be putting insulated/blackout window covers on my 4 remaining windows and my rear door windows. I’m looking at the Greenland 13,500 BTU Inverter RV A/C w/heat pump. Living in such a hot climate, and the fact that my dog is a husky (just moved down here from Canada), not having an A/C is simply not an option for her well being:( We did spend six months in Central America and she did very well after about a week of acclimating (lots of cool showers and napping in the shade in holes she’d dig under palm trees) 🤣. We will be spending as much of our time outside in the cooler forest or in the shade on the beach during the hotter parts of the days, and I’m going easy on insulation (still adding some, but not overkilling it) as insulation does work both ways unfortunately, eh 🤷🏻‍♀️, so trapping in the heat that will inevitably get in is not really a win here IMO.

Here’s my list of items I’m planning on buying (The part I need help with!:) :

-Victron Energy MultiPlus-II 2X Pure Sine Wave Inverter charger for 70 amp Battery, 120v, 3000 VA, 24-Volt (is this enough amps for the batteries I will be needing)
- Victron Energy BMV-712 Smart Battery Monitor w/Shunt, 6.5, 70 VDC, Display & Bluetooth
-Victron Energy Orion-TR Smart DC to DC Charger (Bluetooth) 24/12V 30 amp 360w Battery charger for dual battery systems
-Victron Energy SmartSolar MPPT Solar Charge Controller (Bluetooth) 150v, 85amp, 12/24/36/48V (again..is this sufficient?)
-Blue sea systems 5032 ST Blade Fuse Block 12 circuit with ground & cover
- 24v LifePO4 batteries (This is also where I need extra help.. how many ah do I need?)
-I’m not interested in alternator charging as I will not be driving enough to make it worthwhile (I will mostly be stationary, or driving short distances to explore the area with the OCCASIONAL 4-6 hr. road trip), plus, I’ve heard it’s not great for your alternator and I’m under warranty and don’t want to void that by messing with the engine.
-I will be buying high quality 100% copper wires, no worries;)
-I plan on connecting 2 panels in series, twice (Is that the correct way to do it?)
- The panels claim consistent 36.5V VOC output even when partial shade, and the (many) reviews I’ve watched seem to back that up.

I really appreciate any feedback, criticism (I’m sensitive.. go easy on me lol), letting me know if I’m forgetting/leaving anything out, or if you have any better recommendations! Please feel free to ask me any questions should I have left any crucial info out. Thank you so much for taking the time to read my super long post if you made it this far 🙏

**EDIT**I knew there'd be some missing info haha. Attaching a screen grab of my calculations of estimated amp hours per day, BUT..this is with me really just using almost everything, all the time, no holds barred, which I obviously won't be doing. So realistically it should be quite a bit less.

Also attaching pics of what I bought. I can always return something if I got it wrong (except the batteries which I'll be ordering tomorrow) figured I'd wait for someone to tell me it's all good on those since there's no take backs with litime I don't think. Please let me know if there's anything ESSENTIAL I'm missing (other than cables etc.). I'll probably end up adding a 5th panel and 3rd battery (way) down the line since I'm officially poor now :_( but I oversized my other stuff enough to handle that I think. Probably will get one of those GX touch screens eventually too, but for now...am I all good?

Thanks again, you guys are awesome!
 

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-Small (3.3 c.f.) recpro 12V, 20 amp rated max (fridge only). I will eventually upgrade to a fridge/freezer combo when I can afford it, but starting approx. at that same size.
-One Maxxair fan (7500K Deluxe model)
-One Sirocco II Caframo fan 12/24V
-One Safe T alert gas alarm
-3 x 15 amp Outlets with built in usb/usb-c for charging phones/laptops, wireless projector etc.
-One Shurflo 4008-101-E65 Revolution Water Pump
- Six to eight 12v, Dimmable LED puck lights
- 32 ft. of LED strip lights w/12v power supply
- Starlink mini
You need to figure out how many watt hours per day you expect to use for EVERYTHING before proceeding.
Also you max intended AC load for sizing your inverter.

Without this, everything is a guess, at least on your first round of buying equipment.

’ve already received my panels (4 x 200w Shadowflux)
800W x 5h solar = 4000Wh

Batteries:
4000Wh potential production / 25.6V nominal = 156Ah (pretty reasonable!)
 
I would seriously consider adding a smart DC to DC charger from Victron for your alternator. I know you said you didn't want to void the warranty, but it doesn't void anything and relying on solar exclusively with only what you can fit on a van is going to be a challenge, even in socal.

A DC to DC charger for your alternator doesn't connect to anything other than the battery terminals of your vehicle, and you can set it to push the alternator as gently as you want.
 
Epoch obviously being my first choice, but I might have to start with Litime if I run out of funds
Avoid epoch, those of us who bought epoch have a bad taste as of now. It's not worth the price.

Will you be charging from the grid at all?
If you can run off the grid for a while to get a better idea as to how much energy you use we can help recommend a battery and PV size
You can't go wrong with victron, plenty of support from the smurfs here.
 
I would seriously consider adding a smart DC to DC charger from Victron for your alternator. I know you said you didn't want to void the warranty, but it doesn't void anything and relying on solar exclusively with only what you can fit on a van is going to be a challenge, even in socal.

A DC to DC charger for your alternator doesn't connect to anything other than the battery terminals of your vehicle, and you can set it to push the alternator as gently as you want.
Good to know! I didn't realize I could toggle it back (not sure that's the correct term?), and I guesss it could could come in handy for cloudy/rainy days. Thank you!! Would this REPLACE the current Victron Energy Orion-TR Smart DC to DC Charger I've chosen for now, or would this be in addition to? When I search Victron DC to DC alternator charger on Amazon, it looks to only bring up the type I've already got in my list:/
 
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Avoid epoch, those of us who bought epoch have a bad taste as of now. It's not worth the price.

Will you be charging from the grid at all?
If you can run off the grid for a while to get a better idea as to how much energy you use we can help recommend a battery and PV size
You can't go wrong with victron, plenty of support from the smurfs here.
No I plan on being completely off grid...at least at first as I don't know a soul here, and I will not be paying to park (BLM land, Fish &wildlife, National parks on occasion depending on cost if any. That's the plan. If that ever changes, I will add an offshore power outlet at that time (is that easy to add on later?), but boondocking it for now:)
 
A DC to DC charger for your alternator doesn't connect to anything other than the battery terminals of your vehicle, and you can set it to push the alternator as gently as you want.
I installed a Victron 30A TR Smart DC-DC charger and it did not have any throttling capability. There is a harder to locate 18A version that is a good choice too.
The smart part is great in that it automagically detects alternator voltage (14.?? V) and turns on and of with 5 second delays. Very sweet.
I ran a DC ignition sensing wire to some ACC circuit but never needed it.

My friend drives a lt so this is her only means of charging, we were anticipating eventually adding some solar but there is not need yet.
 
I installed a Victron 30A TR Smart DC-DC charger and it did not have any throttling capability. There is a harder to locate 18A version that is a good choice too.
The smart part is great in that it automagically detects alternator voltage (14.?? V) and turns on and of with 5 second delays. Very sweet.
I ran a DC ignition sensing wire to some ACC circuit but never needed it.

My friend drives a lt so this is her only means of charging, we were anticipating eventually adding some solar but there is not need yet.
The orion XS ( xs1400 for 24v) is the way to go, fully adjustable.
 
Good to know! I didn't realize I could toggle it back (not sure that's the correct term?), and I guesss it could could come in handy for cloudy/rainy days. Thank you!!
You need to figure out how many watt hours per day you expect to use for EVERYTHING before proceeding.
Also you max intended AC load for sizing your inverter.

Without this, everything is a guess, at least on your first round of buying equipment.


800W x 5h solar = 4000Wh

Batteries:
4000Wh potential production / 25.6V nominal = 156Ah (pretty reasonable!)

Avoid epoch, those of us who bought epoch have a bad taste as of now. It's not worth the price.

Will you be charging from the grid at all?
If you can run off the grid for a while to get a better idea as to how much energy you use we can help recommend a battery and PV size
You can't go wrong with victron, plenty of support from the smurfs here.
 
Good to know! I didn't realize I could toggle it back (not sure that's the correct term?), and I guesss it could could come in handy for cloudy/rainy days. Thank you!! Would this REPLACE the current Victron Energy Orion-TR Smart DC to DC Charger I've chosen for now, or would this be in addition to? When I search Victron DC to DC alternator charger on Amazon, it looks to only bring up the type I've already got in my list:/
It's the same thing. So you've already got it on your list.. you just thought it was something else other than alternator charging I guess?
 
I installed a Victron 30A TR Smart DC-DC charger and it did not have any throttling capability. There is a harder to locate 18A version that is a good choice too.
The smart part is great in that it automagically detects alternator voltage (14.?? V) and turns on and of with 5 second delays. Very sweet.
I ran a DC ignition sensing wire to some ACC circuit but never needed it.

My friend drives a lt so this is her only means of charging, we were anticipating eventually adding some solar but there is not need yet.
Hmmm.. I figured it had an option to cap the output amps like the solar chargers do. Bummer. Not that it really matters. You can always toggle the thing off entirely once it bumps up your battery level a bit. An 18-30A load on a van alternator for a while isn't going to harm anything assuming the rest of the vehicle is in good condition and cooling itself.
 
I'm ashamed to say I'm not sure I know how to do that:(
-I know my fridge and gas alarm will be on 24/7
-I'd estimate my Maxx air fan and and Caframo fan to be on 75% of the time (hard to say until I'm living in it)
-The USB/USBC part of the outlets will be used a few hours a day to charge my electronics (3-4 hours)
-The AC part of the outlets will only be used for small kitchen appliances and occasionally other small items so 3-5 hours a week
-My sureflo pump will kick on only when I'm running water, which between showering/dishes/washing hands/cooking would be about 30 minutes a day
-My lights will only be on from sunset to bedtime so 5-7 hours in the winter months, and 2-4 hours in the summer
-My starlink would be on whenever I'm home all day which would not happen often and would vary greatly but max 12-14 hours a day on those days
-My A/C I'd like to run 2-4 hours/day in the summer months
With that info, what else am I missing? The specs for each item?
 

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I'm ashamed to say I'm not sure I know how to do that:(
Its a skill we all had to learn! So join us in our shame club.

Tools to help are a DC clamp meter:

and a Kil-a-watt:



 
30A x 28V = 840W charging

840W / 14V at the alternator = 60A alternator load
I forgot that the Victrons are the amp at the battery. Silly me, I've been engaging in the chit chat section and my brain is fried. She can probably get by quite easily with the 18A version. Not that the alternator shouldn't be able to handle a 60A load either.. though it is certainly pushing it more than one might like in a vehicle that isn't moving at all in a sunny area.
 
Avoid epoch, those of us who bought epoch have a bad taste as of now. It's not worth the price.

Will you be charging from the grid at all?
If you can run off the grid for a while to get a better idea as to how much energy you use we can help recommend a battery and PV size
You can't go wrong with victron, plenty of support from the smurfs here.
Avoid epoch, those of us who bought epoch have a bad taste as of now. It's not worth the price.

Will you be charging from the grid at all?
If you can run off the grid for a while to get a better idea as to how much energy you use we can help recommend a battery and PV size
You can't go wrong with victron, plenty of support from the smurfs here.
Oh good to know! How do we feel about the Litime batteries?
 
Oh good to know! How do we feel about the Litime batteries?
Perfectly fine. I prefer models with bluetooth monitoring so I can see what cells are doing though. It would be nice if any of the bluetooth batteries let you turn off bluetooth when aren't using it for security, or at least let you control a password though.
 
Its a skill we all had to learn! So join us in our shame club.

Tools to help are a DC clamp meter:

and a Kil-a-watt:



Its a skill we all had to learn! So join us in our shame club.

Tools to help are a DC clamp meter:

and a Kil-a-watt:



I've edited my response with pics of the amp/power draw info for each item. I don't own these things yet (other than the maxxair fan and water pump and my kitchen appliances which are in storage an hour and a half away) so I'd need to use some kind of online calculator since I'm installing my solar first before purchasing the rest of the items. Subfloor is going down today, then solar & plumbing (or vice-versa), then framing/walls (I've only got one wall lol for the wet bath area), then bed/couch base (cubbies which will house my solar components on one side, and plumbing components on the other..both accessible through the back doors), then cabinetry (only putting up 2 upper ones and minimal kitchen lower cabinets). I will be keeping all my plumbing and solar/wires accessible (other than the wires going to the outlets and the lights in the ceiling). Is the info provided in these pics enough? I honestly don't mind (I'd actually prefer) going overboard on my solar to play it safe (unless there's a downside to that?). I can always add an extra panel and battery later if needed, but I realllllly don't want to have to change out my BMS/Inverter?MPPT if I do decide to expand later.
 
Perfectly fine. I prefer models with bluetooth monitoring so I can see what cells are doing though. It would be nice if any of the bluetooth batteries let you turn off bluetooth when aren't using it for security, or at least let you control a password though.
Yeah I'd like to use the bluetooth only when I'm leaving my van behind for an adventure. If I'm home, I can keep an eye on things. Do they make litime batteries with bluetooth capability, or would the Victron shunt with the BMS allow that on its' own?
 
You need to figure out how many watt hours per day you expect to use for EVERYTHING before proceeding.
Also you max intended AC load for sizing your inverter.

Without this, everything is a guess, at least on your first round of buying equipment.


800W x 5h solar = 4000Wh

Batteries:
4000Wh potential production / 25.6V nominal = 156Ah (pretty reasonable!)
There's only one Inverter left at the lower price (Used/like new)...Should I buy this? Like, will this inverter be sufficient no matter what? this is the one item I can't buy off an individual (cash poor...need to throw it on the good ol' CC).
 

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There's only one Inverter left at the lower price (Used/like new)...Should I buy this? Like, will this inverter be sufficient no matter what? this is the one item I can't buy off an individual (cash poor...need to throw it on the good ol' CC).
I can always calculate the amp hours for the other components before purchasing those which are items I'll try to get off MP etc. I just don't want to lose out on this lower priced inverter :( I can't imagine 3000w not being enough...or am I that off lol
 
Like, will this inverter be sufficient no matter what?
I dunno, thats what the energy audit is for. Otherwise you're guessing and hoping.

3000VA sounds low because of your A/C and always on things like refrigerator and starlink.
800W solar sounds low too.

I have 800W on RV with 620Ah (12.8V) lithium. The onboard 2000W Xantrex would not run A/C even with soft start.
I added a dedicated 2200W Giandell PSW inverter for A/C only. The challenge is to keep the battery and electronics compartment cool with temps outside over 100F.
I just don't want to lose out on this lower priced inverter :(
I always wonder if the "last 1 in stock" messages are BS marketing hype.

My best advice is to be sure of your requirements and then buy good equipment to meet your requirements.
 
I can always calculate the amp hours for the other components before purchasing those which are items I'll try to get off MP etc. I just don't want to lose out on this lower priced inverter :( I can't imagine 3000w not being enough...or am I that off lol
Be advised victeon rates there inverters by va not watts. 3000va is around 2400watts
 
Yeah I'd like to use the bluetooth only when I'm leaving my van behind for an adventure. If I'm home, I can keep an eye on things. Do they make litime batteries with bluetooth capability, or would the Victron shunt with the BMS allow that on its' own?
The bluetooth on the batteries is for monitoring the individual cells in each battery, a 24v battery is composed of 8 cells. In the beginning they tend not to be very well balanced and being able to see what those cells are doing can help you fine tune things. You usually don't need that capability again unless they start acting wonky, but if they do, you will be glad you have it to confirm your suspicions about what the culprit is.

The Victron shunt is for overall current passing through the batteries as a whole system. It doesn't monitor the cells, it can't.
 

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