An inside explosion on my schneider 4048

[MrSparkle]

Is it just my eyes or do I see cracked chip (44-leged, U1 left-under battery)?


Also, looks like some kind of high voltage "lightning" path from R69 to C151 (next to U1).
Or is it just optical illusion?

 

[robbob2112]

Is it just my eyes or do I see cracked chip (44-leged, U1 left-under battery)?
View attachment 256557

Also, looks like some kind of high voltage "lightning" path from R69 to C151 (next to U1).
Or is it just optical illusion?

Zooming in it just looks like a piss poor job or conformal coating, that and the chip to the right...almost looks like the right of the picture is the up direction and a cap leaked across things..

 

[bolek_bolek]

FQD13N06 is probably 17$ for 10 pieces.
The 2 pins soldered are Gate (left) and Source (Right), the Drain is the metal tab soldered under its body... if removing it without damage to the board is a problem then maybe you ask for someone's help.
The 8 pin IC may be a 2842 or 2843 or 28C42 or 28C43 , can you look closer? It should be replaced too.

 

[HarryN]

Will they sell a new board as a replacement spare part ?

 

[Norbert55]

Digikey, newark and similar are a better source for electronics than amazon, at least in my experience.

Yes, and more cheaper

 

[Norbert55]

FQD13N06 is probably 17$ for 10 pieces.
The 2 pins soldered are Gate (left) and Source (Right), the Drain is the metal tab soldered under its body... if removing it without damage to the board is a problem then maybe you ask for someone's help.
The 8 pin IC may be a 2842 or 2843 or 28C42 or 28C43 , can you look closer? It should be replaced too.

Thanks i'm waiting for a magnifying glass to see with details the components .The ic reads 28c41 ( BICMOS LOW POWER CURRENT MODE PWM CONTROLLER)

https://www.farnell.com/datasheets/1801515.pdf

 

[bolek_bolek]

Great....the schematic in figure 4 is close to yours. Take a DMM set it to diode & beep for continuity the traces around the burned parts to see where each goes, most are going to the IC too . I have attached a schematic with the usual value ranges to give you a clue what part should be there if it's damaged beyond recognition. First remove the broken 13n06 mosfet and test with the DMM if the 24V input is shorted. Measure for about a minute because the input caps look like a short until they charge and they are biiiig. If input it is not shorted , replace :
1. the IC you said it's (UCC) 28C41
2. the 10ohm resistor from pin 6 to the Mosfet and the diode in parallel to it if there is one
3. The mosfet
4. The two shunts of 0.22ohm connected between mosfet source and ground
5. The resistor from shunts to pin 3.
6. The photocoupler
After these steps , you can apply a DC variable supply to the input and at 10V and up there should be some activity on the board, LEDs , display, etc.

 

[Norbert55]

Great....the schematic in figure 4 is close to yours. Take a DMM set it to diode & beep for continuity the traces around the burned parts to see where each goes, most are going to the IC too . I have attached a schematic with the usual value ranges to give you a clue what part should be there if it's damaged beyond recognition. First remove the broken 13n06 mosfet and test with the DMM if the 24V input is shorted. Measure for about a minute because the input caps look like a short until they charge and they are biiiig. If input it is not shorted , replace :
1. the IC you said it's (UCC) 28C41
2. the 10ohm resistor from pin 6 to the Mosfet and the diode in parallel to it if there is one
3. The mosfet
4. The two shunts of 0.22ohm connected between mosfet source and ground
5. The resistor from shunts to pin 3.
6. The photocoupler
After these steps , you can apply a DC variable supply to the input and at 10V and up there should be some activity on the board, LEDs , display, etc.

Wow! thank you a lot