Any video on how to make a regulated 12v output battery box to run a 12 volt ICECO fridge

[EddieM]

Hi
I am trying to maybe build a battery box with LiFePo4 batteries or other similar ones.
This would be to run an ICECO portable freezer fridge when needed. Would be using it as a freezer for meats and fish, plus I can use a 12-volt cell car plug to charge phones if needed.

Trying to see if I can make one for less then buying a Jackery or something for this as I do not need an inverter to run other things with it just 12 volts out.

I would like a regulated 12v output so I do not end up with problems.
Would need to be able to solar charge it as well the faster the better. With 200 watts or higher going in for faster charging if possible.
Using two 170 pannels.

I could see making a second smaller one as well to run a 12 volt fan, lights, Radio and so on.

Then maybe a Jackery 1000 or Bluettie 1500 to run a TV and charge laptops.

Thanks

 

[Forbisher]

Hi
I am trying to maybe build a battery box with LiFePo4 batteries or other similar ones.
This would be to run an ICECO portable freezer fridge when needed. Would be using it as a freezer for meats and fish, plus I can use a 12-volt cell car plug to charge phones if needed.

Trying to see if I can make one for less then buying a Jackery or something for this as I do not need an inverter to run other things with it just 12 volts out.

I would like a regulated 12v output so I do not end up with problems.
Would need to be able to solar charge it as well the faster the better. With 200 watts or higher going in for faster charging if possible.
Using two 170 pannels.

I could see making a second smaller one as well to run a 12 volt fan, lights, Radio and so on.

Then maybe a Jackery 1000 or Bluettie 1500 to run a TV and charge laptops.

Thanks

LFP batteries do Not need to be regulated to run an Iceco fridge.

The High setting on the Iceco fridge will shut off at about 11.8V which is perfect for LFP cut off voltage.

It is not worth using the Med setting which will shut off below 11V as you will only get like one extra fridge run cycle.

Do Not use the Iceco Low battery setting as that is 9.6V which is below the minimum recommended 10V LFP voltage setting.

I have 2 Iceco fridges and a 100Ah LFP battery.
Iceco makes great fridges but they have Horrible customer service. They shined me on for 3 months and I see them ignoring other customers online Be warned.
I have one VL45 running continuously for about a year and recently their new 3 in 1 plastic cooler fridge.

 

[EddieM]

LFP batteries do Not need to be regulated to run an Iceco fridge.

The High setting on the Iceco fridge will shut off at about 11.8V which is perfect for LFP cut off voltage.

It is not worth using the Med setting which will shut off below 11V as you will only get like one extra fridge run cycle.

Do Not use the Iceco Low battery setting as that is 9.6V which is below the minimum recommended 10V LFP voltage setting.

I have 2 Iceco fridges and a 100Ah LFP battery.
Iceco makes great fridges but they have Horrible customer service. They shined me on for 3 months and I see them ignoring other customers online Be warned.
I have one VL45 running continuously for about a year and recently their new 3 in 1 plastic cooler fridge.

If I run it on high would that not use a lot more battery power? I thought most people run them on low?
If I regulated the battery would it then run on low as it id then getting the right power?

 

[Forbisher]

If I run it on high would that not use a lot more battery power? I thought most people run them on low?
If I regulated the battery would it then run on low as it id then getting the right power?

High is the battery voltage Protection system which is kind of obvious when i say the battery cuts off at 11.8V.
Not a power level or anything to do with how much power the fridge uses.
High. Med Low settings are so you don't run your car battery down so low that it won't start and also works well with LFP battery voltages.
Lead batteries need a regulated 12V output but LFP do not.

Iceco fridges also have an Eco mode setting which I leave mine on which is a power setting.

You are confusing the 3 stage low voltage limit cut offs with power settings

 

[EddieM]

Yes I was confusing the low, med and high with the Eco mode. I was thinking the Eco mode was the low setting.

So to charge this battery with solar what would be a good solar charger to use with it if I have two 170 watt panels?
Other than some 12 volt cig sockets would I need anything else to get all this working?
Could I also charge it plugged into the wall at times with the cig-plug end into it - any charger like that or would I need something special?

Would a 50ah version work to run one as a freezer if so for how long?
Like this one or what would you recommend ?.
https://www.amazon.com/ExpertPower-...me-Applications/dp/B07X2TM8MF?ref_=ast_sto_dp

Thanks for the help

High is the battery voltage Protection system which is kind of obvious when i say the battery cuts off at 11.8V.
Not a power level or anything to do with how much power the fridge uses.
High. Med Low settings are so you don't run your car battery down so low that it won't start and also works well with LFP battery voltages.
Lead batteries need a regulated 12V output but LFP do not.

Iceco fridges also have an Eco mode setting which I leave mine on which is a power setting.

You are confusing the 3 stage low voltage limit cut offs with power settings

 

[cypher2001]

Yes I was confusing the low, med and high with the Eco mode. I was thinking the Eco mode was the low setting.

So to charge this battery with solar what would be a good solar charger to use with it if I have two 170 watt panels?
Other than some 12 volt cig sockets would I need anything else to get all this working?
Could I also charge it plugged into the wall at times with the cig-plug end into it - any charger like that or would I need something special?

Would a 50ah version work to run one as a freezer if so for how long?
Like this one or what would you recommend ?.
https://www.amazon.com/ExpertPower-...me-Applications/dp/B07X2TM8MF?ref_=ast_sto_dp

Thanks for the help

Couple of things...

1. A 50ah battery would surely work. Runtime will vary based on some variables (Temp of the fridge, external temp, how full it is, etc). I've seen estimates around 17AH/day at fridge temps. That would give you around 3 days on 50ah. A
2. You can build your own 80ah battery w/ BMS for around 200.00 +/-
BMS (+ Bluetooth module)
80AH (4x3.2 LIFEPO4)
That same store has 55AH batteries for about 25.00 cheaper
3. On the distribution side, you can setup any connectors you like. Put it in a box and wire up the connectors (WITH FUSES PLEASE!). Cigarette Adapter, USB connectors, etc. etc. There are tons of videos on similar setups. Look up Ammo battery box for ideas. I'm in the process of building one now for my fridge.
4. On the solar charging side, you can't just connect your solar panels to a cigarette adapter. You need a solar charge controller appropriate for LIFEPO4 voltages. Also (and important!). 2x170W panels can theoretically output around 19 amps. You won't get there in reality -- but those adapters are not ideal for large current needs. I'd look at Anderson powerpole or even XT60's for small form. You certainly don't want those running through a 12 cig adapter. If you are building the solar charge controller into the battery box, you are going to want a connector just for input with appropriate sized cables to support near 19amp if both panels are to be used.
5. Personally, I would rather build a larger battery box now and power all you need to without shelling out for a Jackery1000 or. BE. No doubt they are good devices and compact -- but also costly. I find satisfaction in building this stuff myself.

A recent youtube vid on something similar to what I think you are looking for.

 

[EddieM]

Couple of things...

1. A 50ah battery would surely work. Runtime will vary based on some variables (Temp of the fridge, external temp, how full it is, etc). I've seen estimates around 17AH/day at fridge temps. That would give you around 3 days on 50ah. A
2. You can build your own 80ah battery w/ BMS for around 200.00 +/-
BMS (+ Bluetooth module)
80AH (4x3.2 LIFEPO4)
That same store has 55AH batteries for about 25.00 cheaper
3. On the distribution side, you can setup any connectors you like. Put it in a box and wire up the connectors (WITH FUSES PLEASE!). Cigarette Adapter, USB connectors, etc. etc. There are tons of videos on similar setups. Look up Ammo battery box for ideas. I'm in the process of building one now for my fridge.
4. On the solar charging side, you can't just connect your solar panels to a cigarette adapter. You need a solar charge controller appropriate for LIFEPO4 voltages. Also (and important!). 2x170W panels can theoretically output around 19 amps. You won't get there in reality -- but those adapters are not ideal for large current needs. I'd look at Anderson powerpole or even XT60's for small form. You certainly don't want those running through a 12 cig adapter. If you are building the solar charge controller into the battery box, you are going to want a connector just for input with appropriate sized cables to support near 19amp if both panels are to be used.
5. Personally, I would rather build a larger battery box now and power all you need to without shelling out for a Jackery1000 or. BE. No doubt they are good devices and compact -- but also costly. I find satisfaction in building this stuff myself.

A recent youtube vid on something similar to what I think you are looking for.

Been reading about the SOK battery 100ah for $620 thinking of buying that for the extra power as it is already wired up with the BMS. Then build that out with 12 volt cigarette plugins with fuses. Then add in a solar charge controller, Yes i would add in Anderson power pole for the solar. Might even add one in place of the cig-plug to be more solid from the fridge plugin replacing the cigarette end.

I was also wanting to be able to charge it from my house current when needed. What would I need for that to charge it? I could see buying a small gas generator as well to fast charge the batteries when needed as well. Would like to get them charged in 3 to 4 hours if possible if we have some bad overcast days.

I do not own the solar panels yet so I am open to getting whatever I need to for this to work best.

If I can get this worked out I would then like to then build a second 100ah with an inverter to run a small TV, fan, laptop and other plug in items as needed.
Looking at solar-charged LED lanterns for lights that you can put outside all day and then use all night maybe 4 of them. After the hurricane, we had 4 outdoor led solar security lights but I had only put up two of them. So I had the other two unused and we placed them out all day in the sun and each one ran very bight all night with no problem so bright we had to use the low setting indoors. We cooked using LP gas I was all set for with a large tank and burner I had picked up for just in case. For our next house, I want to go with a gas range that would have been a big help.

 

[EddieM]

Wanted to ask one more?

If I was to build two of the 100AH setups. When needed can I just use a car cigarette plugin 750W or 1000W Power Inverter to use when needed in place of building the Inverter into the box.

Any downside to doing it this way?
Thanks

 

[cypher2001]

Wanted to ask one more?

If I was to build two of the 100AH setups. When needed can I just use a car cigarette plugin 750W or 1000W Power Inverter to use when needed in place of building the Inverter into the box.

Any downside to doing it this way?
Thanks

You certainly like those cigarette adapters.

There are lots of ideas out there. I would suggest you line up all you want to run to understand the draw on the batteries and build a system to support the devices and runtime you are looking for. Starting with batteries and working backwards gets expensive as you end up engineering (and buying) multiple times.

Charging is a function of the battery and what it can support as input...

As far inverters -- you need to start with what you want to power. In the end -- 1000W at 12V is 83 Amps. You will not be passing that across a cigarette adapter. You need large diameter cable direct connect between battery and inverter.

 

[NCblueridge]

Just out of curosity and since a mention of "regulated" vs. "non-regulated" DC output comes up quite often.

How exactly does one go about regulating DC output on a battery box build with USB ports, cig lighter port? Is that done by using a Buck/Boost converter or something else? Just curious since I plan on having 12v DC accessory outlets on two builds I am doing.

 

[adapotato]

How about this 60ah at $325 after code "RXAngler" is applied? (I purchased)

Boat Trolling Motor Batteries (12V 24V 36V)

What you need to know about lithium batteries! - Click Here How to choose the right trolling motor battery? -Click Here Running multiple fishing electronics? Click here to Calculate Amp Draw! Why do we not recommend lithium cranking batteries? Click Here How to properly connect two batteries in...

ampedoutdoors.com

 

[EddieM]

For a TV I just ordered a small 12 inch that can run off a 12-volt cigarette adapter so this will lower our tv watts needed to be very low to see local over the air news and weather.
Going to order a cigarette adapter plug for our laptop and short wave radio as well and looking at 12 volt fans to get one of them. Also we have a car internet plugin that I rewired and it is plugged into a cigarette adapter 12 volt to AC we have been using it like that for years now. so that can be plugged into 12 volts as well for the internet that never went down as it uses the cell service. That is what I have been on as our cable internet is still down after the hurricane. They had a guy out here yesterday just to tell us it is not working well yeaa we know that. So looking at a week to two weeks he says.

Going to see if I can get most everything we use the most all on a 12-volt version so no inverter would be needed then except a smaller outside of the box one for running something for a short time if needed maybe 500 watts max. This could charge up power tool batteries. I Will see if I can get a cigarette adapter for my battery charger for AA AND AAA batteries for flashlights.
Right now we are still under a boil water order and they extended our beach closing longer. We have police roadblocks up if you do not have a beach pass sticker on your car you can not get in. You get the sticker as a resident so you can get back to your house and it gives us free parking at the beach.

You certainly like those cigarette adapters.

There are lots of ideas out there. I would suggest you line up all you want to run to understand the draw on the batteries and build a system to support the devices and runtime you are looking for. Starting with batteries and working backwards gets expensive as you end up engineering (and buying) multiple times.

Charging is a function of the battery and what it can support as input...

As far inverters -- you need to start with what you want to power. In the end -- 1000W at 12V is 83 Amps. You will not be passing that across a cigarette adapter. You need large diameter cable direct connect between battery and inverter.