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diy solar

Anybody sell custom bus bars?

AlaskanNoob

Solar Addict
Joined
Feb 20, 2021
Messages
1,216
Anybody know of a company that sells custom bus bars? I'd like to get a 24 terminal tin plated copper bus bar made by somebody who knows what they're doing.
 
Agreed. I'm sure most people just make their own and it looks interesting trying to tin copper using chemicals and such. But unfortunately I've seen my Yelp reviews, and I would not hire me to do that when the end result could end up burning down my place...
 
I've got two of the Distributors. But I need to use a ton of t-fuses, and I don't think I can connect those to the bus bar on the Lynx.
Distributors are ok but you give extra for them. The Power In’s can easily and cheaply be converted to distributors. The only difference between the distributors and the Power In’s are the bolts for the Mega fuses which can be bought for pennies added to the power in’s and you have a distributor for the price of a power In.
 

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Distributors are ok but you give extra for them. The Power In’s can easily and cheaply be converted to distributors. The only difference between the distributors and the Power In’s are the bolts for the Mega fuses which can be bought for pennies added to the power in’s and you have a distributor for the price of a power In.

Interesting....going to have to dig into that Lynx graphic....
 
Agreed. I'm sure most people just make their own and it looks interesting trying to tin copper using chemicals and such. But unfortunately I've seen my Yelp reviews, and I would not hire me to do that when the end result could end up burning down my place...
I hear ya.

I use Midnight or Victron for distribution.

The DIY batteries I did I just bought copper bar and drilled my own.

I guess every now and then I’ll pull them off and scrub them of buildup.

No trouble with them so far..
 
Why not use Victron Mega Fuses 300A 48v. Put a single T fuse between the Lynx and the inverter?

I’m using one 250A Class T fuse per two 100Ah batteries connected diagonally with 2/0 wire to the Power In. Those batteries are close, longest run less than 2’. So just like parallel fusing WRT solar panels, but more conservative in fusing. (Two instead of Three). The batteries also each have BMS and CB protection.

Then 400A Class T fuses on each of the two positive 4/0 wire from Power Ins to the inverters.
 
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Victron Power In’s the only way to fly.
I guess, but it's an expensive (for what it is) round hole and there's lots of multishaped pegs out there.

In other words it's yet another thing to design *around*, and personally for 48V it puts way to much exposed + and - too close :-/ . I see lots of systems where the Victron power doesn't (to me) help keep the DC wiring clean, easy, or sane; and often requires using way more wire.

Most confounding to me are people using such expensive and limiting busbars for battery banks.
 
Sounds like a niche market that might need exploited..
You can draw up and shape bus bar you need and order from sendcutsend.com
I run a laser/cnc shop, and I did 2 rounds of group buys on customer nickel plated copper bus bars here on the forum. It is NOT a big market, and a LOT of people were very unhappy with prices.

Sendcutsend does exactly what we do, but they are 100% online. I can tell you for a fact they would be very expensive.
 
I build my busses to fit my projects. Amazon sells great quality copper bars, posts and tinning solution. You could use a post every forth position and bolts for the others. I use 1/8” x 2” or 1/4” thick. The posts are available in different sizes and if the bolt is too short or long it’s easy to swap out a different stainless bolt ( it’s not molded in). The tinning solution is actually a lot more effective and resistant to wear than anticipated. Just buff with 3M cloth to remove oxidation and dobb on solution (shake well) and rinse in warm water. Looks professional. To work the copper all you need is a square, scribe, jigsaw, center punch, drill, sketch and imagination.
9C36F68D-1F8D-4720-AD90-A33DA5B5A342.pngD43375C5-DF4B-4D5F-8EEC-AADA253BD75D.png08947609-D108-4795-AADC-D4406AC6E3B9.png170A343A-7AAC-4048-A969-42E5A8AD54FB.jpeg77D20586-DFE0-4D81-AAAF-58424BA8F76A.jpeg
 

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I guess, but it's an expensive (for what it is) round hole and there's lots of multishaped pegs out there.

In other words it's yet another thing to design *around*, and personally for 48V it puts way to much exposed + and - too close :-/ . I see lots of systems where the Victron power doesn't (to me) help keep the DC wiring clean, easy, or sane; and often requires using way more wire.

Most confounding to me are people using such expensive and limiting busbars for battery banks.
Well first off Victron is top shelf stuff that has been professionally engineered to do the job which is a far cry from the homemade buss bars I have seen recently. They are tested and engineered for 1000A. Any testing on yours? Third if something goes wrong you have Victron standing by their product and their accompanying product liability insurance. I would trust Victron over any homemade buss anyday. Secondly, I challenge you to put together a 1000A engineered buss system of equal quality and materials for less than $160.00 with a cover for protection. I don’t think you can do it personally especially if you consider your time worth anything.

So it’s certainly your choice but I have over 90 kWh of storage consisting of 8 batteries. No way unless I’m flat broke I am trusting anything I can fabricate with that amount of energy. My family and my home are certainly worth the expense. And finally the Victron Buss system is expandable so I can add batteries until I’m done.
 
I build my busses to fit my projects. Amazon sells great quality copper bars, posts and tinning solution. You could use a post every forth position and bolts for the others. I use 1/8” x 2” or 1/4” thick. The posts are available in different sizes and if the bolt is too short or long it’s easy to swap out a different stainless bolt ( it’s not molded in). The tinning solution is actually a lot more effective and resistant to wear than anticipated. Just buff with 3M cloth to remove oxidation and dobb on solution (shake well) and rinse in warm water. Looks professional. To work the copper all you need is a square, scribe, jigsaw, center punch, drill, sketch and imagination.
View attachment 142343View attachment 142344View attachment 142345View attachment 142346View attachment 142347
Perfect example the materials for this buss system is $153.00 plus that 1/8” copper wouldn’t handle anything near 1000A. No covers so if anything falls against it?? Nothing for the time expended. Ok if you want to experiment and DIY but no way id put it in my system. For the price of materials you can buy a Victron buss system. The amount of stored energy we are dealing with is no joke. If it gets away from you bad things are guaranteed to happen.
 
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I guess, but it's an expensive (for what it is) round hole and there's lots of multishaped pegs out there.

In other words it's yet another thing to design *around*, and personally for 48V it puts way to much exposed + and - too close :-/ . I see lots of systems where the Victron power doesn't (to me) help keep the DC wiring clean, easy, or sane; and often requires using way more wire.

Most confounding to me are people using such expensive and limiting busbars for battery banks.
Wire management is a thing for sure. But I think I did an acceptable job of it.
 

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Never said mine was 1000 amps and this is DIY to fit my needs, which for me is overkill. And all my terminals are completely covered. OP wants custom, not necessarily blue.
 
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There has also been a lot of discussions how th
Perfect example the materials for this buss system is $153.00 plus that 1/8” copper wouldn’t handle anything near 1000A. No covers so if anything falls against it?? Nothing for the time expended. Ok if you want to experiment and DIY but no way id put it in my system. For the price of materials you can buy a Victron buss system. The amount of stored energy we are dealing with is no joke. If it gets away from you bad things are guaranteed to happen.
It is somewhat ironic however that many people have stated even on the Victron Community forum that the cross section of the copper used in the Victron buss system is nowhere near large enough to handle 1000A rating without it heating up significantly.
 
There has also been a lot of discussions how th

It is somewhat ironic however that many people have stated even on the Victron Community forum that the cross section of the copper used in the Victron buss system is nowhere near large enough to handle 1000A rating without it heating up significantly.
Was wondering that myself. I have the 1000 distributor for my 12v utility trailer. But have never run anywhere close to that.
 

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