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Anyone looked at this upgraded eco-worthy PV combiner box?

adirondack_wanderer

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Saw this come across my feeds:


I've been interested in some combiner boxes for a while and inspired by @LithiumSolar 's video
. I looked into the Hoffman brand but have found they are now sold under nVent https://www.nvent.com/en-us/hoffman/products/encrf-6 and they're overpriced for most residential DIY installations and they're made on-demand and non-return/refundable. I got a 4-string just to see and it's decent but doesn't have any anti-backflow diodes, is not a swinging / locking door design, and a few other small things that you could rectify on your own but I just haven't got into that yet.

I saw this new model from eco-worthy and it seems decent especially for ~$100. From what I've learned about PV combiner boxes this checks a lot of boxes:

·6 String Configuration, Max current of single PV input array is 10A. Each String Continuous Duty Rated at 250 Vdc.(Regardless of the specifications of the solar panels, regardless of the connection method is series or parallel, as long as the current and voltage of a single PV does not exceed 10A/250Vdc, you can connect the combiner box).

·Single PV input array installs with high voltage fuse, its function over-load, over-charge protection; Anti-Backflow Diodes, Anti-Backflow & Anti-Reverse Protection, Touch-safe Circuit Breakers& Non-conductive Box.

·Professional high voltage breaker controls output, with anti-circuit protection and make the system more reliable, safety.
·This PV array combiner box includes Output Cable Glands & Safety Labels & Lightning/Surge Protection Module (1000V).

One thing I cannot find are the dimensions as I want to ensure it fits on the exterior mounting locations I have planned. Any thoughts on the appearance without any hands-on?
 
I think I’ve installed four of the ones from watts247 now. Metal case, diodes, breakers, fuses, surgio arrestor, locking, nice fittings.

You might think them pricey but they’ve got everything and water resistant too. FWIW
 
I have one of their older units and it is working great. I even saw that Signature Solar was selling the Eco-Worthy combiner.

I like that 63A one. I would run it a 1/4 of that current but pretty sweet
 
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How could it be a combiner without bus bars? It actually uses the same bus bar as the ecoworthy. And has a higher amp breaker.
 
How could it be a combiner without bus bars? It actually uses the same bus bar as the ecoworthy. And has a higher amp breaker.
There is a bus bar for the negatives but aside from that I only see jumpers, and again no anti-backflow diodes. The 6-string Vevor box is $85USD, and the eco-worthy is $119 on eBay (at the time of my OP there was a coupon bumping it down to ~$100). From the surface the eco-worthy looks like a better value and more features.
 
more features
Maybe I already posted this? The watts247 combiner boxes are ‘expensive.’ But they come with both fuses and breakers for the panels, paralleling diodes, the surge dump, and most importantly to me a high quality gasketed metal box.

I’ve bought several for people and have one myself.

Edit: ooops. Yes, I did already post this
 
Maybe I already posted this? The watts247 combiner boxes are ‘expensive.’ But they come with both fuses and breakers for the panels, paralleling diodes, the surge dump, and most importantly to me a high quality gasketed metal box.

I’ve bought several for people and have one myself.

Edit: ooops. Yes, I did already post this
Yes you did, and I appreciate it, but I just wondered if there were any opinions on this particular offering from eco-worthy that appeared to be newly designed. The watts247 6-1 box is $302 and we should always try for the top-tier solution but the eco-worthy may be sufficient for some (as the Vevor may be as well). I recall a YouTube video of someone doing a full install and they used eco-worthy boxes and passed inspection. Some of your more savvy people may have better insight into things like the grade of bus bar being used, the quality of the anti-backflow diodes, the MC4 connectors not playing nice with other connectors, etc.
 
Yes you did, and I appreciate it, but I just wondered if there were any opinions on this particular offering from eco-worthy that appeared to be newly designed. The watts247 6-1 box is $302 and we should always try for the top-tier solution but the eco-worthy may be sufficient for some (as the Vevor may be as well). I recall a YouTube video of someone doing a full install and they used eco-worthy boxes and passed inspection. Some of your more savvy people may have better insight into things like the grade of bus bar being used, the quality of the anti-backflow diodes, the MC4 connectors not playing nice with other connectors, etc.
Are the diodes required? They introduce loss.
 
Are the diodes required? They introduce loss.
From reading the forums I don't think there's a clear answer. Some will argue that they are necessary, and some say they are "a complete waste of time and money". I guess it would depend on the amount of loss they would introduce and balancing that with the risks of not using them.
 
There is a bus bar for the negatives but aside from that I only see jumpers, and again no anti-backflow diodes. The 6-string Vevor box is $85USD, and the eco-worthy is $119 on eBay (at the time of my OP there was a coupon bumping it down to ~$100). From the surface the eco-worthy looks like a better value and more features.
There's no way to combine without a bus bar. The bus bar for the positive is on top of the positive fuses. It's covered by a piece of what seems like plastic. The positive bus bar is thinner but it's copper. The negative bus is much thicker but looks more golden and has the holes to clamp down the screws inside it. So I guess something to keep in mind. Ecoworthy might not be using copper buss bars.

I got the vevor 15A one for under $70 with one of the sales. It's just missing the backflow diodes, which is not a feature I want. Vevor also comes in different sizes and amps, so they could be even cheaper depending on your needs.

If the backflow diodes is important to you, then ecoworthy is a great deal. I wouldn't hesitate using one. I have ecoworthy products and it's a good budget company. Not the best quality, but good value compared to much more expensive products. You just have to wait for the sales that they have every 1-2 weeks
 
There's no way to combine without a bus bar. The bus bar for the positive is on top of the positive fuses. It's covered by a piece of what seems like plastic. The positive bus bar is thinner but it's copper. The negative bus is much thicker but looks more golden and has the holes to clamp down the screws inside it. So I guess something to keep in mind. Ecoworthy might not be using copper buss bars.

I got the vevor 15A one for under $70 with one of the sales. It's just missing the backflow diodes, which is not a feature I want. Vevor also comes in different sizes and amps, so they could be even cheaper depending on your needs.

If the backflow diodes is important to you, then ecoworthy is a great deal. I wouldn't hesitate using one. I have ecoworthy products and it's a good budget company. Not the best quality, but good value compared to much more expensive products. You just have to wait for the sales that they have every 1-2 weeks
I'm new to this space so not sure the backflow diodes are needed but from what I read it seemed like something that would protect the panels from a specific use case. One of my sources is YouTube channel Kelley's Country Life and in this PV combiner box video at the 5:50 mark he cautions about knock-off PV combiner boxes that use jumpers instead of bus bars and the Vevor box looked like it fit into that category on first glance. The PowGrow box in Kelley's video, the eco-worthy box I originally posted, and the watts247 boxes clearly have bus bars at the top. I may get both Vevor and eco-worthy boxes to test and see what the performance is like and how easy it is to navigate inside the box.
 
I'm new to this space so not sure the backflow diodes are needed but from what I read it seemed like something that would protect the panels from a specific use case. One of my sources is YouTube channel Kelley's Country Life and in this PV combiner box video at the 5:50 mark he cautions about knock-off PV combiner boxes that use jumpers instead of bus bars and the Vevor box looked like it fit into that category on first glance. The PowGrow box in Kelley's video, the eco-worthy box I originally posted, and the watts247 boxes clearly have bus bars at the top. I may get both Vevor and eco-worthy boxes to test and see what the performance is like and how easy it is to navigate inside the box.
I may have found a flaw in the Vevor one. There doesn't seem to be a place to connect the ground, or maybe I just don't know how to do it. Could be remedied by a DIYer, but would probably be better to go with the one in the video. I like that one and price is similar to ecoworthy. Thanks for sharing
 
Are the diodes required? They introduce loss.
We are growing and harvesting solar at such a large scale these days with panels that make 400W and cost less than Saturday night out with the kids, and we’re feeding the SCC inputs with 200V+.
The percentage of ‘loss’ is sorta not even a concern anymore like it was when ‘we’ started with our four 100W panels.
But they do avoid other losses and are a safety against possible bleedback into less irradiated strings.
My thoughts anyways.
 
I used a cheap combiner box for almost a year. Until I bought a thermal imaging camera and discovered it was heating up way more than it should. I never did find out why it was heating up so much. The wires were tightly connected. I changed the fuses. I even changed the wires inside to a larger gauge. The only thing I did not change were the breakers. I stopped using it and gutted the entire thing and only kept the parts that I needed for other things.

IMG_1711.JPG
 
I used a cheap combiner box for almost a year. Until I bought a thermal imaging camera and discovered it was heating up way more than it should. I never did find out why it was heating up so much. The wires were tightly connected. I changed the fuses. I even changed the wires inside to a larger gauge. The only thing I did not change were the breakers. I stopped using it and gutted the entire thing and only kept the parts that I needed for other things.

View attachment 273957
How hot is your new set up? Any pics?
 
How hot is your new set up? Any pics?

I don't use a combiner box any more. I have new inverters that accepts higher voltage up to 500V so I rewired the panels in series.

If you look at the top of the photo there is an LCD display that shows "782". That is actually 78.2 which is the voltage of the combined PV panels. The display was wired to the bus bars in the combiner box. I can't remember exactly, but I think my inverter at the time had a max PV input voltage of 150V. That is why I had to use the combiner box to combine 5 strings with 3 panels in each string. Now I have an EG4 6000XP and new panels, so everything is in series and runs much much cooler.
 
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I don't use a combiner box any more. I have new inverters that accepts higher voltage up to 500V so I rewired the panels in series.
You can add another string of panels and parallel it to the one you have now
 
I have 2 Bluetti AC500 units each with 2 PV inputs accepting up to 150V. Each PV input has 4 arrays of 6x100w panels in parallel. I've been using y-adapters but after learning more about PV combiner boxes I wanted to put these in place of the y-adapters, hence I went down this path.
 

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