diy solar

diy solar

Anyone seen inside a LifeBlue?

@Vertigo The battery photo I posted above is of a new version LifeBlue 200Ah. The BMS for the 200Ah and above batteries has a 200A continuous rating.
 
@Vertigo The battery photo I posted above is of a new version LifeBlue 200Ah. The BMS for the 200Ah and above batteries has a 200A continuous rating.
I figured that might be the case. That BMS definitely looks more substantial. More cabling coming off the posts to handle the higher amps too.
 
Vertigo, You sure are brave to take those measures. I’m not willing to void my warranty so thanks for showing the inside photos. Do you have a picture of the BMS?

What do you think you gained by all this effort? Do you think the battery will last longer? Do you get one more AH of use? I think of the old adage, “if it ain’t broke...”
 
Vertigo, You sure are brave to take those measures. I’m not willing to void my warranty so thanks for showing the inside photos. Do you have a picture of the BMS?

What do you think you gained by all this effort? Do you think the battery will last longer? Do you get one more AH of use? I think of the old adage, “if it ain’t broke...”
Warranty...hahahahaha. You mean a warranty from the company that’s gone extra lengths to hide their true demographics from the public? More importantly, I have two Battleborns on the way so these batteries will be gifted to someone less fortunate than me this summer.

I’m also reminded of another old adage, “the lady doth protest too much”.
 
Vertigo:
I think I have a similar problem with my new LifeBlue 200's and would appreciate some details on your disassemble and balance routine.
Thanks in advance.
 
Vertigo:
I think I have a similar problem with my new LifeBlue 200's and would appreciate some details on your disassemble and balance routine.
Thanks in advance.
I don’t have any direct experience with the LB 200a batteries. The case on the 100a is easy enough to open; just remove the small screws in the top that attaches to the base shell (immediately voids the warranty). The BMS is located on top of the cells underneath the top half of the case. The BMS must be removed to access the cells. The BMS in the 200’s is more complicated than the 100’s and I believe has more connections. The connectors are likely fastened with an latex type adhesive also. Mine required cutting through the adhesive to free the connectors from the board. One slip and cut through a wire and you’ve got a problem. I took pictures of everything step by step and labeled all connectors with blue painters tape for reassemble reference. There should be a red power cable attached to BMS with a plug to kill the power going to the board that makes resetting easy; unplug it first! Should be a few screws holding the BMS to the cell carrier. Once you free the BMS you can access the positive and negative cables to the battery lugs from the bus bar assembly.

I suspect the 200’s will have 32 cells in series and parallel (Not sure, but the 100’s have 16). The bus bars appear to be stamped tinned copper plates. Proper orientation of the cells is imperative for reassembly. I used a magic marker to denote the positive terminal on each cell and took a picture for reference too. The plastic carrier that holds the cells in place is a PITA. It takes a little jiggling and prying to release it after the nuts are removed from the bus bars. Getting it back together is even more fun. Don’t forget to label all the BMS connectors on the bus bars too. Once everything is separated the last step is to remove the individual cells for balancing. Will has a YT video on balancing that simplifies the entire process. You’ll need a power supply to get the job done. I picked up one on Amazon for about $40. Bus bars to connect all those cells in parallel are another story. I made one long bar for each pos and neg side from copper pipe ($7 at Home Depot) hammered flat and drilled using the bus bars in the battery as a template for spacing.

It’s not really hard, just label everything and take pictures for reference in reassembly. Make all connections to the BMS BEFORE you reconnect the power wire to the BMS. Watch Will’s video on balancing a few times; he makes it easy. And, DON’T BLAME ME IF YOU BLOW EVERYTHING UP!
 
Wow Vertigo, thanks for the detailed and quick response !
I have the tools, time, electrical experience and power supply.
Next to review Will's video and build up the courage...
Thanks again.
 
Wow Vertigo, thanks for the detailed and quick response !
I have the tools, time, electrical experience and power supply.
Next to review Will's video and build up the courage...
Thanks again.
BTW, Greyghost posted a pic of the 200A BMS in this thread so you can get a look at it beforehand so you know what you’re getting into. Good luck.
 
I just received some of my complete solar kit from A.M.Solar. Today two of many boxes arrived via FedEx. It is two 200Ah 12V LifeBlue batteries. I'd assumed, since they are expensive, that like Battleborn, they too were made in the USA. Nope. But seeing Vertigo's tear down and reading other comments here makes me feel a bit better.
 
I just received some of my complete solar kit from A.M.Solar. Today two of many boxes arrived via FedEx. It is two 200Ah 12V LifeBlue batteries. I'd assumed, since they are expensive, that like Battleborn, they too were made in the USA. Nope. But seeing Vertigo's tear down and reading other comments here makes me feel a bit better.
 
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