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Anyone using a 24V WI-FI Router?

VanLuna

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I have a 24V system in my van build and I'm looking for a WI-FI router which can run off of 24DC directly.

I only need a WAN and a single LAN port, as I have a 24V DC switch already picked out.
Mini Industrial 12v-48v DC 5 Port Gigabit Switch https://a.co/d/3BqV2NM

I'm doing my own search as well, checking the product data sheets, but it is slow going, so I thought I'd ask if any of you are already doing this...

I should add, I'm not looking for LTE or other external connectivity. Just a local network. Internet access is going to be seperated into its own system and optionally powered on when needed.
 
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I have a 24V system in my van build and I'm looking for a WI-FI router which can run off of 24DC directly.

I only need a WAN and a single LAN port, as I have a 24V DC switch already picked out.
Mini Industrial 12v-48v DC 5 Port Gigabit Switch https://a.co/d/3BqV2NM

I'm doing my own search as well, checking the product data sheets, but it is slow going, so I thought I'd ask if any of you are already doing this...

I should add, I'm not looking for LTE or other external connectivity. Just a local network. Internet access is going to be seperated into its own system and optionally powered on when needed.
I have never seen 24 vdc router before.
Probably easier to get DC-DC converter.

Most routers run on 12 or 5vdc and a few amps from a wall wort.
 
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Mofi accepts 10-30 volt input.

Edit: Just get a puny 24-12 volt step down. Maybe like 25 watts.

I think what you mean is that you want to avoid the 120V ac adapter right? All you need is a dc-to-dc converter and the wiring skills to splice the connector into the supply.

Easy peasy!
 
I have a 24V system in my van build and I'm looking for a WI-FI router which can run off of 24DC directly.

I only need a WAN and a single LAN port, as I have a 24V DC switch already picked out.
Mini Industrial 12v-48v DC 5 Port Gigabit Switch https://a.co/d/3BqV2NM

I'm doing my own search as well, checking the product data sheets, but it is slow going, so I thought I'd ask if any of you are already doing this...

I should add, I'm not looking for LTE or other external connectivity. Just a local network. Internet access is going to be seperated into its own system and optionally powered on when needed.
Take a look a Mikrotik router.

 
Take a look a Mikrotik router.


That is a great suggestion, seems like most of their WIFI Routers will accept a wide range of DC voltages including 24V.
 
I am not running 24 volt to my router but all the peplink routers/modems I have seen can run on anything from 12-28 vols.
Even the older model that you could get on ebay.
Not affiliated with this ebay link at all, jus showing the type of unit I am talking about.

I am running a max transit duo and LOVE it.


 
Ubiquiti and Microtik are likely your best options. I know my old Ubiquiti EdgeRouterX could take anything from ~9V to 48VDC, although it does not have integrated wifi.

Voltage converter is the most flexible solution though.
 
Mikrotik is a nice option. Pay attention if you're using 4G only certain models have decent modern hardware. Most are focussing on low-end connectivity (LTE CAT4 or CAT6). For van usage, you're better of with a more modern generation.

For just routing it's the way to go, fast performance for low price. It does require some knowledge tho, it's not your average TPLink with a nice webgui.
 
We are using a GLinet 5vdc usb powered router for the last year or so and it works fine for us. They are $30-35 on amazon. I decided on this model because it uses very little power, 2w or so.

It runs our HD PTZ cameras just fine 95% of the time though it can get laggy, which could just as well be our fixed point wireless internet service.

I have no idea if it runs more data intensive stuff like Xbox games or netflix or whatever, but it has worked for all we have tried with it. It is easy to make 5vdc with any powersource.
 
We are using a GLinet 5vdc usb powered router for the last year or so and it works fine for us. They are $30-35 on amazon. I decided on this model because it uses very little power, 2w or so.

It runs our HD PTZ cameras just fine 95% of the time though it can get laggy, which could just as well be our fixed point wireless internet service.

I have no idea if it runs more data intensive stuff like Xbox games or netflix or whatever, but it has worked for all we have tried with it. It is easy to make 5vdc with any powersource.

This thread is about 24V not 5V, but yes there are many USB power 5V travel routers out there.
 
I am doing something similar to this (but different). I want to provide a network in my (soon to be) solar powered barn, with a point to point wifi antenna back to the house. I want to use one of the PoE switches in my post, but have inrush concerns:

 
just to state the obvious that everyone skipped over, and for those who dont already know....
Almost all, if not all, electronic eqpt runs off DC power. The AC is always changed to DC. Sometimes you can see the transformer brick in the wall plug/cord, and sometimes the transformer (changes AC to DC) is inside the device unseen.
Sometimes you can read the label and it will tell you the DC voltage. If you are handy then take the case apart and measure the DC voltage after the transformer to find out, you can then bypass the transformer and put the same DC voltage to the wires (after the transformer) to power the device - you are basically giving the device the same DC voltage the transformer is, well, you are exactly doing this. It works, but not for the beginner unless you want to risk damage the first time.
Find a TV that runs on 12 volts (after the transformer) and you can do this bypass without need for step-down devices too, no need for inverters... Most TVs I see have been 18 volts and the transformer is almost always inside the TV too, so will not have a brick on the cord.
Same principal for your said device or any electronic device.

cdsolar, yes, but you can use a PoE injector to do the same thing for a lot less money. You will just use the OUT of the injector, not the IN, but hen you have to strip the wire and test which is positive and which is negative, usually the browns and the blues are the DC power - the orange and green will not be used in this case.
 
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