Are Renogy Class-T fuses okay?

[iClick]

I'm building 12v 300A/h battery that will be installed in a 4wd canopy and I'd like to have a good fuse to protect against a catastrophic failure in the system. Looking at installing a Class-T fuse and most are in excess of $70 AUD (fuse only)

I've just discovered that Renogy have their own Class-T fuse that is much more budget friendly at only $30 AUD Can anyone give feedback on this fuse, are they reliable?

 

[Suijkerbuijk]

Renogy is a label sticker company.
Well a lot of stuf.
So its just at-fuses that is sell by them.
And really the prise for t-fuse is compleet stupid.
Its nothing more than a fuse with sand in a metal body .

So if this your option just go for it.
It will be always saver than mega fuse or a c20 fuse.

 

[rhino]

I would never trust that one since that is you last line of defense before a catastrophic failure. Compare that one to the one below which as you see has much thicker metal on it and you don't have to disconnect the cables when replacing the fuse:

That one is $60 for fuse holder and fuse in USA. I would think you should be able to find similar for reasonable price in Australia.

 

[Skypower]

That dog legged fuse is fine, but not as common as the tang type. I always look at replace-ability in the future. As old as I am, I’m amazed at how fast some things become obsolete then unavailable. Modern business don’t like stocking things that don’t move, they just eliminate it. The old mom & pop hardware stores where “I think I got some of those in the back” are all but gone.

 

[robbob2112]

It is all about the time verse current curve and the AIC of the fuse. And the holder needs to be made from flame proof plastic.

Time/current is good if it blows in 0.010 seconds when at 6 times rated current. AIC is good if it is 20k amps. The reason class T are larger is to have a gap large enough to break an arc.

The fuse you linked I am not sure about. No specs listed for it.

The holder has one set of bolts verse two per end. This means when you change the fuse the wires are not restrained and can touch something if they get loose from you. The other thing is the class T holder blocks help dissipate heat. Fuses all generate heat at current. The lower the rating of a given style the smaller the fuse element the more heat is generated.

 

[robbob2112]

I looked up the fuses, the are the small physical size and the AIC is inadequate for LFP batteries. They look to be a style used with deep cycle lead acid batteries.

 

[rhino]

I looked up the fuses, the are the small physical size and the AIC is inadequate for LFP batteries. They look to be a style used with deep cycle lead acid batteries.

Were you able to find any specs for the actual fuse? The fact that there is no writing on that fuse at all would scare me alone. Also nowhere do they provide interrupting current info.

 

[T-Rex]

Eaton-Bussmann shows the aic for the 125LET fuse to be 50 ka @ 150v DC. Sounds plenty good enough to me... But then I'm just a dumb bilge rat...

https://www.eaton.com/us/en-us/skuPage.125LET.html

 

[robbob2112]

I was assuming they were eaton brand, then the jnn series based on the fuse size verse the measured distance between posts.... this makes the AIC right around 2 to 3 ka

https://www.eaton.com/content/dam/eaton/products/electrical-circuit-protection/bussmann-iec-high-speed-semi-conductors-fuses/bussmann-iec-british-standard-high-speed-fuses/marketing-assets/eaton-bussmann-series-bs88-high-speed-fuses-product-aid-pa135003en-us.pdf

The larger AIC you are seeing is for the larger spec size of fuse. Look at the chart at the bottom right for the rated current and it is 2 to 3ka

 

[JRH]

I was assuming they were eaton brand, then the jnn series based on the fuse size verse the measured distance between posts.... this makes the AIC right around 2 to 3 ka

https://www.eaton.com/content/dam/eaton/products/electrical-circuit-protection/bussmann-iec-high-speed-semi-conductors-fuses/bussmann-iec-british-standard-high-speed-fuses/marketing-assets/eaton-bussmann-series-bs88-high-speed-fuses-product-aid-pa135003en-us.pdf

The larger AIC you are seeing is for the larger spec size of fuse. Look at the chart at the bottom right for the rated current and it is 2 to 3ka

I understand where yer sorta going here..I agree…

When one picks up a proper Blue Seas class T fuse holder with fuse , you know by its feel, fit ,finish and weight you have a quality item …
There will always be somthing on your system to worry about , but that fuse probably will never be one of them …

J.

 

[iClick]

That one is $60 for fuse holder and fuse in USA. I would think you should be able to find similar for reasonable price in Australia.

Thanks, I wish I could find something that affordable here in OZ, a decent Class T fuse holder and fuse is approx $180 AUD

The holder has one set of bolts verse two per end. This means when you change the fuse the wires are not restrained and can touch something if they get loose from you.

Good observation and hopefully this could be managed by ensuring the battery was properly powered down first.

I looked up the fuses, the are the small physical size and the AIC is inadequate for LFP batteries. They look to be a style used with deep cycle lead acid batteries.

I've raised a support ticket with Renogy to get the proper specs. They claim that it's a new item and they didn't have the specs available when I enquired online. They do publish detailed specs for their ANL fuses so I'm hoping they can provide the same soon for the Class T fuses.

 

[robbob2112]

Renogy doesn't manufacture anything - they just get others to do it and put their label on it. I would bet if you bought it and pealed the label off it would have Littlefuse under it.

 

[iClick]

I looked up the fuses, the are the small physical size and the AIC is inadequate for LFP batteries. They look to be a style used with deep cycle lead acid batteries.

For A$24 I thought I'd check one out. If you believe the label, tt appears to be 10KA IR.

 

[Kornbread]

When you get it, post up a detailed inspection. I want to see where the stud ends are anchored. Bet they are embedded in the plastic underbody. If you get enough current passing through the fuse body to create some heat, the plastic where the studs are embedded could let the stud loosen. With a lot of current a loose connection could be bad, really bad.