Assembling my 2000w 24v system.

[acdoctor]

I have what looks to be the same crimper metric dies. I have always been able to make it work. It is a bit of a three handed operation though. Clamping it in a vise would be helpful. I crimp most of the way closed, turn it 90 deg and finish. Only strip the exact length then if insulation isn’t touching the terminal you know it has moved. Never had one I questioned .

 

[WYtreasure]

I have what looks to be the same crimper metric dies. I have always been able to make it work. It is a bit of a three handed operation though. Clamping it in a vise would be helpful. I crimp most of the way closed, turn it 90 deg and finish. Only strip the exact length then if insulation isn’t touching the terminal you know it has moved. Never had one I questioned .

Somewhere here I have been chatting with a guy who made a cradle for his hydraulic crimper. Searched but can't find the thread about his motorhome.

 

[Fran365]

I have some lever crimpers that work by blood pressure. Rotate die for 6-0ga and they work good. I’ve actually used the for 2/0 by going progressively and not single-shot. I think they were $40-$45US

You can’t pull wires out.

Thanks, I did choose a lever crimper, hope it works. If I would just remember to slow down and do some checking before I buy it would help, at least returns are easy. I believe this is called learning. Fran

 

[Fran365]

I have what looks to be the same crimper metric dies. I have always been able to make it work. It is a bit of a three handed operation though. Clamping it in a vise would be helpful. I crimp most of the way closed, turn it 90 deg and finish. Only strip the exact length then if insulation isn’t touching the terminal you know it has moved. Never had one I questioned .

I might have given up too soon, it never occurred to me to rotate and recrimp.

 

[Fran365]

Somewhere here I have been chatting with a guy who made a cradle for his hydraulic crimper. Searched but can't find the thread about his motorhome.

I see where that would help, again I never thought you needed to rotate the terminal and double crimp.

 

[12VoltInstalls]

I did choose a lever crimper

rotate the terminal and double crimp

I do this.
Even with correctly sized terminal barrels a single-plane mirror-image jawed crimper will tend to create some distortion except in the high-priced end of the tool selection. So i crimp 75-90% on the first stroke, rotate, and finish the crimp. Smaller terminals seem to need this less.

The argument is, “buy the proper tool” but I do not do hundreds of crimps a week. If I did perhaps I’d buy a more expensive tool.

The fact is that for certain ‘standards’ the ‘flash’ you might sometimes get from less-priced tools is not allowed- aircraft etc- and won’t pas inspection. However, for what most of us here are doing the cheaper tools will create a powerful crimp that will not pull out AND create a 100% contact within the crimp. Rotation merely avoids the flash or wings that might occur. Heat shrink with adhesive over the wings do not seal- no wings, good heat shrink seal.

 

[Fran365]

When I first examined my first crimper I thought top and bottom pressure alone seems lacking. I can visualize a 3 or even 4 direction crimp that would be good, but we will see .

O

 

[Fran365]

Just rec’d the new crimped and it set the terminal strongly, cannot be budged. The accompanying wire cutters cut #4 effortlessly.

 

[Fran365]

Somewhere here I have been chatting with a guy who made a cradle for his hydraulic crimper. Searched but can't find the thread about his motorhome. WYT, as I said below my lever crimper works fine, what is pathetic is after 4 crimps my shoulder was sore, the 70’s are full of this stuff. Looking into a cradle and a extension on the arms.

 

[Fran365]

I do this.
Even with correctly sized terminal barrels a single-plane mirror-image jawed crimper will tend to create some distortion except in the high-priced end of the tool selection. So i crimp 75-90% on the first stroke, rotate, and finish the crimp. Smaller terminals seem to need this less.

The argument is, “buy the proper tool” but I do not do hundreds of crimps a week. If I did perhaps I’d buy a more expensive tool.

The fact is that for certain ‘standards’ the ‘flash’ you might sometimes get from less-priced tools is not allowed- aircraft etc- and won’t pas inspection. However, for what most of us here are doing the cheaper tools will create a powerful crimp that will not pull out AND create a 100% contact within the crimp. Rotation merely avoids the flash or wings that might occur. Heat shrink with adhesive over the wings do not seal- no wings, good heat shrink seal.

Now that Ihave a lever crimped I see what your saying, my first crimp had wings, I’ll rotate as you suggest, thanks.

 

[Fran365]

Somewhere here I have been chatting with a guy who made a cradle for his hydraulic crimper. Searched but can't find the thread about his motorhome.

Hi WYT, you gave me the idea, this works fine.

 

[Fran365]

I was going to put an extension on the levering handle but it was unnecessary.

 

[WYtreasure]

I was going to put an extension on the levering handle but it was unnecessary.

SWEET

 

[Fran365]

That is 100A shunt, not a fuse. You will need small in-line fuse for the Monitor module in case the module shorted so the small wire feeding the power to the module will not catch on fire.

Hi Mr Martin, I called the service dept on this shunt, and they recommend a .5 amp fuse on the positive wire.

 

[Fran365]

Thanks Mr. Martin, this shunt was not part of W. Prowse blueprint. I was at a site that just said this was a nice meter for the money and useful after installation.

Hi Bud, contacted the shunt folks and they recommend a .5 amp fuse in the positive line.