diy solar

diy solar

Assistance with Renogy 2000W Inverter Charger shutting down

I am sorry to be out of touch as I was a bit hamstrung because it was taking so long to return my bench tested inverter charger. As it turns out they are unable to return it for whatever reason, I didn't ask. I will be getting a refund on the inverter charger which gives me an opportunity to somewhat start over. So here are my plans and some questions:
  • Would it be better to go with a separate dedicated inverter and dedicated charger? I would use a 2000 watt dedicated pure sine wave inverter and possibly trade out the existing WFCO charger with one for lithium batteries (WF-8735LIS). Any Feedback on that would be much appreciated.
No, an ul-458 listed inverter charger is a much better way to go for your use case.
  • Quite frankly, I looked at a number of combo inverter chargers online and wasn't impressed with any of them except the Victron at $1,200+. I am not up for spending that much. I am looking at this dedicated inverter: Link to Inverter
  • Replace the existing WFCO power center with one able to charge lithium batteries: Link to Charger
IMO getting any converter is a poor choice.
  • Replace the 250 amp breaker with a quality 200 amp fuse as denoted in the installation manual.
  • Replace cables, the manual calls for 2/0 cabling versus 4awg that was used.
Am I missing anything. Comments appreciated.

Thanks for all!
2000 ac watts * 1.5 low frequency factor / 12 volts low cutoff = 250 service amps
250 service amps / .8 fuse headroom = 312.5 fault amps.
You want minimum 2/0 awg with a 300 amp fuse.
This is a quality inverter_charger https://www.donrowe.com/samlex-evo-2212-pure-sine-inverter-charger-p/evo-2212.htm
 
@richardtc17 what was the matter with the inverter_charger you had?
From memory it was every other thing about that build that was wrong.
 
quality 200 amp fuse as denoted in the installation manua
What Fuse? ANL or Class T?
Replace the existing WFCO power center with one able to charge lithium batteries: Link to Charger
That link did not work. Important thing is the charging voltage and float voltage. I'm honing my Lithium charge voltages now, but a converter with 14.1 or 14.2 I may use, but I'd trip the breaker to the converter as soon as the battery is charged. By tripping the breaker. I would be shutting the float voltages off.
Would it be better to go with a separate dedicated inverter and dedicated charger?

I went with a 2000 watt dedicated inverter, a dedicated SCC, and a dedicated converter. An all in one may have been a cheaper, less "clutterly" way for my install.
 
This post describes the benefits of a quality inverter/charger vs discrete components.
 
IMO getting any converter is a poor choice.
I agree, but for those of us who have made poor choices and bought converters,

Would you agree there no better way to use the converter than shutting it off once it reaches a certain state of charge, and only use a converter to recharge on cloudy days.

I have found no other way to charge my system than a converter. I have an Aims 75 amp charger, but I still plan on using only incase of emergencies.

I regret no getting an all in one or inverter charger, but that ship has sailed.
 
I agree, but for those of us who have made poor choices and bought converters,

Would you agree there no better way to use the converter than shutting it off once it reaches a certain state of charge, and only use a converter to recharge on cloudy days.

I have found no other way to charge my system than a converter. I have an Aims 75 amp charger, but I still plan on using only incase of emergencies.

I regret no getting an all in one or inverter charger, but that ship has sailed.
I have 2 converters :)
My primary means of charging is an iota converter controlled via a raspberry pi that talks to my bms.
I only do this because I have an extremely weird and shag-nasty usage model.
 
Would you agree there no better way to use the converter than shutting it off once it reaches a certain state of charge, and only use a converter to recharge on cloudy days.
Some converters allow a 1 stage(power supply) mode if they also allow you to adjust the voltage I would set it quite low (<3.35 volts per cell) and let the solar top off the battery when it can.
 
Last edited:
My primary means of charging is an iota converter controlled via a raspberry pi that talks to my bms.
I only do this because I have an extremely weird and shag-nasty usage model.
Any tips or forums to send me to for programming with the rasberry pi? That is an October project post 24 volt build item for me.
 
Any tips or forums to send me to for programming with the rasberry pi? That is an October project post 24 volt build item for me.
Can you code?
I wrapped @melkier 's utility in perl.
That utility did all the heavy lifting.
Most folks these days would probably use Python.
As for the pi specific stuff I used these libraries.
RPi::WiringPi
RPi::Const

It was quite easy as all I needed to do was toggle a gpio pin on and off to control a solid state relay that in turn controls the iota via its boost pendant port.
Your aims charger should be controllable via its external battery temperature sensor port.
Shorting the temperature sensor port pins should terminate the charge.
 
Can you code?
Not in any useful language. I was pretty good at Basic. To tell you how long ago it was, I programmed a little in Machine to speed up the ASCII graphics on my black and white monitor.

A few years ago I got stuck in a job where part of it was learning to manipulate Visual Basic Commands for Excel Spreadsheets.

My daughter went to school for that type of stuff and I'm hoping she can help a bit.
 

Attachments

  • 1631664534925.png
    1631664534925.png
    104.8 KB · Views: 5
Not in any useful language. I was pretty good at Basic. To tell you how long ago it was, I programmed a little in Machine to speed up the ASCII graphics on my black and white monitor.

A few years ago I got stuck in a job where part of it was learning to manipulate Visual Basic Commands for Excel Spreadsheets.

My daughter went to school for that type of stuff and I'm hoping she can help a bit.
If you have known 1 language it shouldn't be hard to pick up another.
Best thing to do is avoid the "crab bucket".
This guy has good example code https://perlmaven.com/
Sending you a pm.
 
I would use the existing converter. No real magic with the lithium model. This leave you open and the money in your pocket to upgrade to something else if needed.

I have and recommend GoPower sine wave inverter. Just the stand alone model. No transfer switch, no solar, no charging.
 
I would use the existing converter. No real magic with the lithium model. This leave you open and the money in your pocket to upgrade to something else if needed.

I have and recommend GoPower sine wave inverter. Just the stand alone model. No transfer switch, no solar, no charging.
This sounds good. The Go Power is reviewed favorably. I see that it also has an external transfer switch and wired remote, of which I will need both. I am also going to use my existing converter and top of with solar through the charge controller. Thanks!
 
Last edited:
I was hoping to see a good resolution and answer to the shutdown issue. I have bought a Renogy 3000w IC that I will install when the Li batteries go into the fifth wheel trailer. I got it as it was a good deal at 600$CDN shipped (~472$US) from Renogy

I'm replacing a Xantrex Pro SW 2000w and 6v AGMs. I wanted a hardwire inverter as I was using a pigtail to tie into the genny pre-wire (no genny) and thru the existing xfer switch. This Renogy is crazy heavy. I'm assuming they used the huge toroid transformer to keep the costs down. I need to mount it on a vertical panel so I'll need to make it strong to handle the 65#.

In hindsight I could have just gone with a discrete inverter that supports hardwire and would be lighter. I rarely use the current onboard charger and just let the solar do the charging as we're not often on hookups.
 
Some converters allow a 1 stage(power supply) mode if they also allow you to adjust the voltage I would set it quite low (<3.35 volts per cell) and let the solar top off the battery when it can.
Thanks! I will check into this via manual or tech support at WFCO. I like the idea of going with what I already have and keeping it as simple as possible.
 
I was hoping to see a good resolution and answer to the shutdown issue. I have bought a Renogy 3000w IC that I will install when the Li batteries go into the fifth wheel trailer. I got it as it was a good deal at 600$CDN shipped (~472$US) from Renogy

I'm replacing a Xantrex Pro SW 2000w and 6v AGMs. I wanted a hardwire inverter as I was using a pigtail to tie into the genny pre-wire (no genny) and thru the existing xfer switch. This Renogy is crazy heavy. I'm assuming they used the huge toroid transformer to keep the costs down. I need to mount it on a vertical panel so I'll need to make it strong to handle the 65#.

In hindsight I could have just gone with a discrete inverter that supports hardwire and would be lighter. I rarely use the current onboard charger and just let the solar do the charging as we're not often on hookups.
Hmm! I don't know. My problems could quite possibly be due to installation errors. I am going to correct the mistakes, but will never know the cause, because it is not being returned to me. I realize this is not what you ordered, but have you seen this?
 
Hmm! I don't know. My problems could quite possibly be due to installation errors. I am going to correct the mistakes, but will never know the cause, because it is not being returned to me. I realize this is not what you ordered, but have you seen this?
Glad I didn't get that one! LOL

I'll get this Renogy hooked up and decide from there whether I just go back to discrete components and get a hardwired inverter
 
This post describes the benefits of a quality inverter/charger vs discrete components.
I appreciate this. I should have probably led off the thread with this - We are going to be either on shore power or boondocking. We usually state park hop for three to seven days for up to six weeks at a time. If the weather permits, we use nonelectric sites. The inverter will only be in use when we need AC power. So there will not be any need to minimize transfer time. For now, I am going to make this as simple as possible with discrete inverter, transfer switch and wired remote and use the limited stage charger in WFCO power center and top off with solar.

I am definitely going to take your advice regarding the power center charger - "Some converters allow a 1 stage(power supply) mode if they also allow you to adjust the voltage I would set it quite low (<3.35 volts per cell) and let the solar top off the battery when it can."

Thanks so much!
 
I have decided to go with the inverter that Will recommended in one of his 400 watt blueprints. I am going to be changing out the cables with the proper 2/0 cables. I am looking into a discrete auto transfer switch, recommendations needed and appreciated. I will be reconnecting the charger in the WFCO power center and use it in an as needed fashion. This will include adjusting to "allow a 1 stage (power supply) mode if they also allow you to adjust the voltage I would set it quite low (<3.35 volts per cell)" - thanks smoothJoey.

I would like to thank you all for your assistance. I have learned and am still learning a lot. I will be combing through our thread to nail down all of the suggestions offered. Hopefully in not too long a time I can look forward to a system that will meet my needs.

Best regards,
Richard
 
Back
Top