diy solar

diy solar

Bab Bad Zoom batteries?

If you already have a disconnect of sort, a proper fuse is another trouble free option.
 
I need a good 150amp breaker, can you recommend? Thank you
Eaton Bussman, Midnite solar (as @Bud Martin said), and Blue Sea Systems all make good quality breakers / fuses (and other stuff).

I always vote for Eaton Bussmann, that's what I use at work to fix expensive pool equipment, and they always meet spec, and I have never had a problem with anything made by them.

Check for used ones on eBay. Fuses are very low risk to buy used, and I've had good luck with used breakers as well. I got a bag of three 70 amp class T fuses for $20 the other day, which is less than a single new fuse normally costs. A good, new, 150a breaker should run about $50-80, plus shipping.

I don't have any experience with this particular vendor, but those breakers are very good.

 
Hi Will, your 0.2C (~250 watts) discharge test might not be enough to grade this battery. Serious issues here with two of these in parallel using 2000watts GoWise pure sine, or 2200watts Giandel pure sine from your website( plus 3 other highly rated pure sine inverters by other RVers). First i thought there was something wrong with all these inverters because all these new amazon inverters when connected to these two zooms batteries (100 amp BMS each so together they can handle up to 200amp) all can deliver continuous 500 watts for 10 mins or more. I didn't go beyond 10 mins because i thought it was long enough. However, when applied 700 watts then these inverters shut down after 3-5 mins; 1000 watts shut down in 1-2 mins, 1500 watts shut down in 30 - 50 secs .

I did multiple isolation tests including attaching a light directly to the batteries to see if the lights would go out when both BMS shut down. The light never shut down but all the inverters did... even at 700 watts . Weird thing is, even if 1 battery bms shuts down then the other parallel should be able to handle 700 watts (~ 65amp) but that is not the case ... all inverters shut down after 3-5 mins with the lights still on without a slightest flicker. my DC amp meter and volt reading (12.4v constant) were always attached and monitored. No shore power.

so i swapped to 2 lead batteries and ran the same tests. All the inverters powered through no problem even with fluctuating voltage from 12.7V start to 10.8V. The lead batteries boiled my 1000w 1L electric kettle, ran 1500w heat gun full power (though not as strong) without shutting down once. please help. I don't know what else to do other than asking you and contacting Zooms for support. thank you Will.

No, .2C is industry standard for capacity testing lifepo4. It is fine and common on most datasheet. I can pull full capacity at higher rates on new packs regardless. What is the problem with that rate that you do not agree with?

What size battery? Discharge rate and BMS current capacity rating is dependent on size of pack. I don't see that mentioned at all.

How did you charge the packs? Did you hit full SOC? How did you know? Looks like other members are recommending soc meters. Smart. Hook one up and let us know the soc of this test.

Lead acid voltage sag and lower nominal make it an absolute joke. So it sounds like your inverter supply conductors are adequately sized if the inverter runs fine with lead acid.

Sounds like you didn't charge your batteries up all the way. Even a single 100Ah pack can run that load just fine. It's 83A at 1000W. If not, I would expect BMS failure as the culprit. Pretty rare. But I cannot prove SOC through a post like this without information of pack size and soc etc.
 
No, .2C is industry standard for capacity testing lifepo4. It is fine and common on most datasheet. I can pull full capacity at higher rates on new packs regardless. What is the problem with that rate that you do not agree with?

What size battery? Discharge rate and BMS current capacity rating is dependent on size of pack. I don't see that mentioned at all.

How did you charge the packs? Did you hit full SOC? How did you know? Looks like other members are recommending soc meters. Smart. Hook one up and let us know the soc of this test.

Lead acid voltage sag and lower nominal make it an absolute joke. So it sounds like your inverter supply conductors are adequately sized if the inverter runs fine with lead acid.

Sounds like you didn't charge your batteries up all the way. Even a single 100Ah pack can run that load just fine. It's 83A at 1000W. If not, I would expect BMS failure as the culprit. Pretty rare. But I cannot prove SOC through a post like this without information of pack size and soc etc.
Turned out it’s a fluke with a stuck breaker that never trip visually then heal itself over and over again. Battery and converter aren’t the issue. Thank you so much Will.
 
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