diy solar

diy solar

Bare Vs Tinned Vs Silver Copper Bus Bars

The one from Amazon was thin, under 1/16 but I did not need heavy. On Line Metal is 1/8 inch thick. It will make first class buss bar for under 250 amperes.
From On Line Metal; 0.125" x 1" Copper Rectangle Bar 110-H02 - Part #: 4263
pure copper anode; https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07PYNRYX3/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Currently unavailable. But 1/2" copper water pipe works great if you have a 4" vice and a 4 lb sledge. Plus some of us enjoy the satisfaction of DIY. Of course you should put a hose, or something non conductive, over the exposed copper bar. Which wire does not need. The amount of labor is fairly similar in my book. Putting on lugs vs. flattening and drilling and covering the exposed area.
 
I flattened some 1/2" soft copper tubing using nothing more than a household hammer on the cement floor of my garage. I did have to flip it over and do some additional pounding to make it flat, but I have run 1500 watts draw from my 24v pack, and the bus bars didn't heat up even a little.
 
Has anyone measured the actual voltage drop on any copper pipe buss bars? A true measurement with a voltmeter? At the inter-face with the battery and buss.
 
Has anyone measured the actual voltage drop on any copper pipe buss bars? A true measurement with a voltmeter? At the inter-face with the battery and buss.

That's why I asked how much less resistance there was. Given the more pure nature of copper pipe, I would expect lower resistance. But is a flattened tube a good form?

In the end, I suspect that we lack tools with sufficient sensitivity to measure the difference between copper pipe and manufactured bus bars.
 
That's why I asked how much less resistance there was. Given the more pure nature of copper pipe, I would expect lower resistance. But is a flattened tube a good form?

In the end, I suspect that we lack tools with sufficient sensitivity to measure the difference between copper pipe and manufactured bus bars.

My dad used to check resistance with his Fluke. Took all of 10 seconds. I think most of us could do the same - if we knew how to use more functions on our multi-meters/voltmeters.

Only the ends are flattened. They must be for bolting down. I doubt that flat vs. round makes a significant difference.
 
The terminals on my batteries aren't very tall. If you didn't flatten at least the bottom of the pipe then it wouldn't reach the terminals.
 
Tube stock OD___width if flattened_____________Type-L____Type-K

1/4"____.250"____9.0mm____.360"_____________0.060"_____0.070"

3/8"____.375"____13.6mm____.530"_____________0.070"____0.098"

1/2"____.500"____18.8mm____.740"_____________0.080"____0.098"

3/4"____.750_____

7/8"____.880"____33.5mm_____1.300"

xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx

Calculating the copper cross-section, then convert to AWG-guage

1/4"-L____9.0mm X 1.5mm (0.060") = 13.5mm squared____6ga

1/4"-K____9.0mm X 1.8mm (0.070") = 16.2mm squared____5.5ga

3/8"-L____13.6mm X 1.8mm (0.070") = 24.5mm squared____3.5ga

3/8"-K____13.6mm X 2.5mm (0.098") = 34.0mm squared____2ga

1/2"-L____18.8mm X 2.0mm (0.080") = 37.6mm squared____1.5ga

1/2"-K____18.8mm X 2.5mm {0.098) = 47.0mm squared____0ga

I use 1/2" K copper pipe. And a 50-ton press.
 
Tube stock OD___width if flattened_____________Type-L____Type-K

1/4"____.250"____9.0mm____.360"_____________0.060"_____0.070"

3/8"____.375"____13.6mm____.530"_____________0.070"____0.098"

1/2"____.500"____18.8mm____.740"_____________0.080"____0.098"

3/4"____.750_____

7/8"____.880"____33.5mm_____1.300"

xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx

Calculating the copper cross-section, then convert to AWG-guage

1/4"-L____9.0mm X 1.5mm (0.060") = 13.5mm squared____6ga

1/4"-K____9.0mm X 1.8mm (0.070") = 16.2mm squared____5.5ga

3/8"-L____13.6mm X 1.8mm (0.070") = 24.5mm squared____3.5ga

3/8"-K____13.6mm X 2.5mm (0.098") = 34.0mm squared____2ga

1/2"-L____18.8mm X 2.0mm (0.080") = 37.6mm squared____1.5ga

1/2"-K____18.8mm X 2.5mm {0.098) = 47.0mm squared____0ga

I use 1/2" K copper pipe. And a 50-ton press.

Thanks for the work - seems logical enough. But one must give one piece tubing credit for being - one piece. There are losses in crimps and potential issues from imperfect crimps. Not everyone has a government type income to buy 50 ton presses.

Where is the 3/4" equivalent? That is what I used.
 
I don't use crimped wire for buss bar. I use flat copper stock cut to size, drilled, and tin plated.
 
Thanks for the work - seems logical enough. But one must give one piece tubing credit for being - one piece. There are losses in crimps and potential issues from imperfect crimps. Not everyone has a government type income to buy 50 ton presses.

Where is the 3/4" equivalent? That is what I used.

I have a cheap 20 ton one (this one to be exact, 166 € delivered, I'm sure you have equivalents where you live, especially if it's in the USA) and it should be plenty enough, no need to have a gov budget. I'm pretty sure a 10-12 ton one would be enough and it would be cheaper ;)
 
It is too difficult to get squished pipe flat. It is difficult to get a good contact surface between the not-flat pipe and the flat cell terminal surface. 3/4 pipe would squash to near 2 3/4 inch wide. 1/2 pipe to near 2 inch wide. Just is so much easier to get and work with flat copper bar.

Just a note that my hammered-flat 1/2-inch Type L (standard home plumbing pipe) is only 1-inch wide. But that's compressed from round. If you were to "split it apart" then yes, it'd be about 2 inches. I got mine quite flat with a sledgehammer and anvil. No issues making good contact with lugs. (the pictured one is not as flat as I had done it without the anvil)

Bus bar from 1-inch copper pipe, width.jpg
 
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