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diy solar

Batrium setup without shunt?

Firstascent

Solar Enthusiast
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Mar 7, 2020
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I have a Batrium as my BMS and they only support their shunt (shuntmon), which I do have. I also have Victron Multiplus II inverter with the Lynx Distribution including the Lynx shunt. Originally I was trying to setup the Batrium shuntmon circuit board to the Lynx Shunt block directly, admittedly I want to use the Lynx shunt for aesthetics.
I’ve gotten this setup to work somewhat close but it’s not as accurate as the Batrium shunt by itself or the Lynx shunt by itself.

so then it got me thinking that maybe I’m thinking about this the wrong way. The shunt’s purpose is to give me SOC data, my BMS is not my charge controller, I have the SmartSolar MPPT along with the charge settings directly in the Multiplus II as well for that.

Without the Batrium shunt, the Batrium BMS can still fully track each cells voltage and temperature and therefore can do any tripping/alarming that it’s meant to do anyway. Now, it does get the full pack voltage through the shunt wires, I would probably want to track total voltage (12v system) for critical lows as well correct? I’m sure I can still get pack voltage back to the Batrium without the shunt somehow if needed.
the Victron equipment would of course have SOC and pack voltage for normal charging/discharging, but my understanding is the BMS is my fail safe and isn’t needed under normal circumstances, it’s there for when other processes fail.

what do you guys think, am I missing something or is this an easier solution than I thought :) this is my first build so definitely still learning.

-Jaime
 
I'll be running my Batrium shunt and BMV-702 in tandem for max functionality. Screw aesthetics.
That’s definitely the easy way, but not an option :)
however, are you communicating to your Victron gear over canbus from your Batrium?
 
I'm not sure what the problem is. Just appearance? I have 3 shunts in series which works fine.
 
I'm not sure what the problem is. Just appearance? I have 3 shunts in series which works fine.
Yes, I know functionally it will work just fine in series. But aesthetically I don’t like it so that’s why it’s “not an option”. :)
 
I'm not sure what the problem is. Just appearance? I have 3 shunts in series which works fine.
I'm considering using the Victron Smart Shunt in series with the Batrium Shuntmon. The Smart Shunt is for Solar Assistant to track SOC.

I did run across the info quoted in this post on Batrium support pages. https://diysolarforum.com/threads/smart-shunt-and-solar-assistant.60206/post-743632

Have the 3 shunts you have in series hold calibration well together? I have to wonder why Batrium has that statement.
 
I'm considering using the Victron Smart Shunt in series with the Batrium Shuntmon. The Smart Shunt is for Solar Assistant to track SOC.

I did run across the info quoted in this post on Batrium support pages. https://diysolarforum.com/threads/smart-shunt-and-solar-assistant.60206/post-743632

Have the 3 shunts you have in series hold calibration well together? I have to wonder why Batrium has that statement.
They stay close. Maybe off at most 2-3%. I find the batrium shuntmon to be worse than the others. I have the batrium, two Midnite solar Whizbangjrs, and the conext battery mon.
 
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They stay close. Maybe off at most 2-3%. I find the batrium shuntmon to be worse than the others. I have the batrium, two Midnite solar Whizbangjrs, and the conext battery mon.
I have found the Batrium needs to hit full charge often to maintain accuracy.

Thank you, greatly appreciated.
 
I use a Midnite Classic Whiz Bang Jr (shunt) in series with my Batrium shunt and both work as one would expect - they report pretty close to the same values. These are in a metal control box along with a series of breakers and not visible unless one opens the control box. :)

I have found the Batrium needs to hit full charge often to maintain accuracy.

Thank you, greatly appreciated.
I agree that Batrium SoC is problematic (and so I ignore it) as I never charge 100% and haven't found a way to have it stay correct or maybe I just haven't figured out to use "Re-Calibrate Low SoC"?
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