diy solar

diy solar

Batteries in series or series / parrallel ?

I think I understand
There are two bars for charging (+and - ) and two for inverter?
No. There are two to connect all of the batteries together in parallel. There are two to connect all of the components together.
 
OK, gotta ask. The 4-lug bus bars I referenced are about 3" between the outermost bolts. Is 3" really going to make that much of a difference?
 
Here is another question regarding wiring and balancing
Due to location of solar panels I need to create two arrays
1) 6- 250 watt panels wired in 2 series providing 104 volts/18 amps on a MPPT Renogy CC 150/60
2) 4- 300 watt flex panels wired in series 60 volts 8 amps (NO CC yet)
Question, what is the best way to connect two CC's to the battery bank?
 
what is the best way to connect two CC's to the battery bank?
Use the bus bars. Everything should connect via the bus bars. Add the second SCC just like the first SCC and the inverter as shown in the diagram I posted.
 
Optimum way to do it is with some bus blocks and arrange like so:

View attachment 93402
Can someone clarify the diagram, maybe I'm not seeing things right. On the negative bus block are all the wires coming from all the negative battery terminals, also on the positive bus block are all the wires coming from all the positive terminals? It looks like all the + terminals are on top but the bus says negative, and all the negative terminals are on the bottom but the bus says positive?
 
Can someone clarify the diagram, maybe I'm not seeing things right. On the negative bus block are all the wires coming from all the negative battery terminals, also on the positive bus block are all the wires coming from all the positive terminals? It looks like all the + terminals are on top but the bus says negative, and all the negative terminals are on the bottom but the bus says positive?

Read Wiring Unlimited, it has easier-to-understand pictures.

His diagram is hard to understand because he did not label the - and + where the wires attach to the battery.
 
Thanks for that info, so there was an emergency the other week and I had to use the LiPo battery bank to run a split AC unit max amp draw hovers around 20-25 amps at around 1K watts give or take 200 watts during startup then hovers around 200-500 watts at 7-9 amps once it cools down, I got a total of around 10Kw+ out of the batteries, they are Chins 12v 100ah actually capacity test shows 110ah each, times 6 according to the Victron's smart shunt, once drained I charged them up with a Victron's charge controller, once charged I check the voltages and found that most of the batteries were not charged to the parameters entered on the charge controller and voltages range from 13.52v to 13.72v per battery, I let the batteries sit for an hour and checked the voltages again and basically got the same results. What could be causing this? Don't the BMS in each battery manages the charging voltages per battery? If so, why the discrepancy? I checked every battery when I got them and they checked exactly according to specs. I uploaded a picture of the setup, all cables are 2AWG pure copper, all lugs were crimped with hydraulic crimper also copper, all cables measure the same length maybe a very small variance. The battery to bussbar cables are 2AWG by 36 inches, the cables from the Inverter to the bussbar are 2AWG by 18 inches long, resistance on all the cables was checked and is 0 in my meters, from one end to the other and no voltage drop. I have contacted Chins to see if they can give me some feedback on this. The picture got cropped when I uploaded but there are 2 breakers at the end of each string both terminals + and - are hooked up to the proper breaker at the end of the string, from the + breaker the + cable goes to the + bussbar, from the - breaker the - cable goes to the negative bussbar. not sure if I explained this correctly. All cables are secured and maintain equal size and length. The maximum amperage this bank is used for is around 25-50 amps since I have another bank for small appliances such as lights, refrigerators and microwaves. How precise are these BMSs on these batteries? Hopefully I can get some ideas on how to set this up so the batteries can charge correctly in the near future.
 

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