Battery bank : lead acid

[cisumma]

Ever seen in of these? I bought it way before the battery bank was enhanced.
Still dont know if I can us it. It just looked cool.
I just took it out of the box . I'd have to go over the specs. Not sure if I can use it for anything

 

[cisumma]

View attachment 44223

Judging from the tiny little input out put connections it seems to step down 12v to 75v to mV . What the hell do I do with this? Lol

 

[cisumma]

View attachment 44223

 

[Hedges]

I am using a charger. That is bad?
Shoemaker 8 amp charger I have 2 of these but I am using only one now.

Probably OK at least temporarily if it follows the proper voltage profile: Constant current up to a particular voltage, constant absorption voltage for a few hours, then drop to float voltage.

But the battery spec sheet called for minimum 15A charge per 225Ah battery (or series string of 2 6V batteries making 12V)
So with 2s4p batteries, it calls for at least 60A charge current.

You ought to put in enough PV for the recommended charge, 1000W of panels or more, and an SCC of at least 60A.

Note that you have enough batteries to wire for 24V or 48V system, reducing minimum charge current to 30A or 15A, which can be done with a less expensive SCC.

"Right now I am totally DC. I have a little Coleman DC cooler and it seems to run well using 4 to 7 volts. I do not know how to use a tester to measure amps.
I have the emergency DC lights available.
I guess my ambition to run a 12 anp deep freezer that runs on and off ( compressor doesn't seem to a lot)
So, is it possible that when I move to AC will be able to get a general idea of weather or not this configuration will run fluently?"

"DC Cooler" - is that a solid-state thermoelectric "Peltier" cooler? Don't run that off batteries - draws far too much power, very inefficient.

Make a 24V or 48V system, and buy an inverter to run off that. Use a DC-DC or AC-DC charger to keep 12V Marine/Deep Cycle batteries charged for 12V loads. Batteries are the most expensive part of a system, and you already have AGM batteries. Just buy a 48V inverter, inverter-charger, or hybrid. You could spend anywhere from a few $hundred to a few $thousand depending on the brand, quality, capability you want.

 

[cisumma]

For the life of me I cant seem to meter measure how many amps the coolers draw. I will probably consider using the the ac to DC plugs that come with it ( but those plugs seem to fail very quickly) once I evolve into an inverter because they do keep beer cold.
Naturally, basic refrigeration is necessity and I really don't want to start relying on propane and gasoline.
And I am not in a position to buy expensive appliances yet.
I'm hoping to keep a DC system and see if an inverter will maintain frozen food that can be held for preparation in a DC cooler of sorts.
But first, I am waiting for the clouds to part and for God to deliver $1500 of panels.
When I get a chance I will have to run through the math and try to evaluate if the deep freeze can be run on a timer to control at least 6 hours of operation. I am thinking that it might be possible to keep food frozen.
Not sure how the deep freeze will perform on a hot pull down for an initial freeze though.

 

[Tariq0101]

Isn't 1400$ a little too much for two 300w panels?
I bought two new Chinese mono 200 watts panels for about 150$ total.

Edit:
And after trying them for a week I'm pretty sure they are giving more than their rated amps, but the tilt is perfect for this season and the weather has been perfect lately.

 

[cisumma]

Isn't 1400$ a little too much for two 300w panels?
I bought two new Chinese mono 200 watts panels for about 150$ total.

Edit:
And after trying them for a week I'm pretty sure they are giving more than their rated amps, but the tilt is perfect for this season and the weather has been perfect lately.

Personally, I am in the market for panels and I believe the going perfured rat is $ a watt.

 

[cisumma]

Don't spend $1500 to add 600W, and don't spend $600 to add 600W.
Your $600 could buy 2400W of panels. Or fewer panels, and some supporting electronics.

Solar Panels | SanTan Solar

store.santansolar.com

There is a cost to ship a pallet by freight, but you can save some picking it up at he freight terminal (assuming you can carry the large pallets.)
Say shipping is $200. You can pay $400 for 800 to 1600W (or more if you buy the cheapest) and come out ahead.
Or, check eBay & Craigslist for a local vendor of used/surplus panels so no shipping cost.

Clearly, I need 2400 watts of PV I'd love to buy that for $600 . Is that possible?

 

[Hedges]

Clearly, I need 2400 watts of PV I'd love to buy that for $600 . Is that possible?

Follow the SanTan Solar link I gave. After selecting a model and quantity you want, contact vendor and ask for a price for that quantity, may get further discount.

Battery bank : lead acid

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B08G4484D4/ref=sspa_mw_detail_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&pd_rd_i=B08G4484D4p13NParams# This sounds good. Any thoughts?

diysolarforum.com

If for grid-tie or mounting on your roof, get panels that still have UL stickers (cheapest $0.20/watt panels have those removed.)
Here's one for a little over $0.25/watt, would cost $670 for 2400W:

SunTech 285W | SanTan Solar

store.santansolar.com

Another, $880 for 2400W

Hansol 355W - SanTan Solar Store

Check out our brand new Hansol 355W 72 cell monocrystalline panels! They come with the manufacturers warranty! Only $0.41/watt!

store.santansolar.com

$576 for 2400W

Used 250W 60 Cell Poly Solar Panel Major Manufacturer - SanTan Solar Store

Used 250W and 255W solar panels. These are used panels, in good physical condition. Minor scratches and scuffs, typical for a used panel.

store.santansolar.com

In any case, plus about $200 more or less for shipping. I save the last mile (truck with liftgate) by picking up at freight terminal.

You will sometimes find similar deals locally, on Craigslist or sort eBay by distance. Some vendors have used panels removed from solar farms/commercial installs, and some have leftovers following an installation.

 

[cisumma]

Hansol 355W​

 

[cisumma]

6 of those on a flat roof. I will contact them too ; however, stainless steel rails a couple inches off the roof?
Is there a prefabbed system for this? And do these panels usually have some sort of wiring configuration because I imagine all connections are not universal.
I have to figure how the shipping works also . Can you offer any insight.
I have to contact them and j am not sure of obvious installation requirements I am ignorant of.

 

[cisumma]

Additionally, I could accommodate 6 more along a SSW fence line in the back yard if quantity is a better deal. Tjougjts?

 

[cisumma]

6 v 2s4p +- 300 ah 12v
16,800wh/2130w = 8h to maintain charge.

6 v 2s4p +- 300 ah 12v
16,800wh/4260w = 4h to maintain


Eventually I would plan to double the 6 v 2s2p and be good.


33600 wh / 4620w= 7h

 

[cisumma]

Thus far my math ignorance is in the scope of DC. And I have not shopped for an invert yet.
I suppose The inverter efficiency must be considered because I imagine it shuts down before batter damage.
What does that math entail I I estimate the load of 12amp×120v=1440 watts.

I'd like to estimate it will need to run at least 4 hr in a 24 h period.

So, 1440w x 4h = 5760wh

And my 6v 2s4p = 16800wh

I'm missing a variable because I need to end up with ( value)h

 

[cisumma]

Got that 2 kw PC on the way

 

[Hedges]

Wiring - everything is MC4, just plugs together.
If no more than 2 strings in parallel, all you need are "Y" adapters.

Mounting - I use Unirac. Ironridge has similar products. Or you might come up with something cheaper DIY using other materials.
Mine are ground mounts rails and bottom clips aligned to holes on panels. Roof-mounts usually have rails placed where they fit and panels are held with top clamps.

Shipping - vendor will find reasonable truck shipping of a pallet. I have a pickup, so had shipment held at a freight yard.
Sometimes with other vendors I've shopped trucking companies/brokers myself.

You estimate 5760 Wh consumed in a day, and have 16800 Wh.
5760 Wh/16800 Wh = 0.34, 34% depth of discharge which is fine. You could go a couple days without sun.

6 x 355W = 2130W
5760 Wh / 2130W = 2.7 hours effective sun to replenish what you used (ignoring lower PTC vs STC rating)
Seems well sized for most of the year. May not get enough sun in the winter.
You can find an insolation calculator, see if some orientation of panels gives enough power every month of the year.

 

[cisumma]

I have a flat roof and I have ordered spects for the hardware that would attach a 22 foot wing to the top of my house; however, a 22 foot wing with an 50 to 80 mile/ hr wind could lift an airplane to 10,000 feet ; so , I plan to basically bury post below the freeze line and essentially build a Southerly facing fence of panels.
The sun that will be less focused ofcourse ; but, roof deployment would be extremely HOT and hail damage seems inevitable.
And the ground deployment will be extremely cool.
Is heat or lack there of an important issue to consider when the math is done concerning efficiency?

 

[Hedges]

Cool from a breeze, and elevated not right next to the roof, should provide more power.
Do you plan to mount the panels completely upright, so they face horizontal? That will most most of the sun, except early/late in the day and winter, but not optimum for any.
If you make a row of bipods, that can provide better angle. Or one vertical, one sloped.

Here is my fence-mounted array:

DIY ground mount

Keeping in line with the whole low-cost solar system, building my own braided bus bars, etc. I thought I would see what it takes to build a low-cost ground mount for those 500W 96 cell panels (1310mm x 1956mm). My goals were to make the whole thing simple to build, with minimal tools and simple...

diysolarforum.com

I always try to make triangles. Small pipes can be used then. If you make a single post mount, or one row of posts, they need to be larger diameter to resist bending.

 

[cisumma]

Very nice. The grade of the hill you are working with is nice.
I will probably in achieve half that angle.
I will have to build as i go but my .plan would be similar.
I have 22 -25 stretch so I might stand them upright or make rows like yours.
I haven't been able to come up with a easy way to weed or cut any foliage that will live behind the array.

I am on the fence ( pardon the pun) on just going perpendicular because the neighbor has a serious tree line in the southern sky.
So, I am hoping this array is big enough to to capture what it can.
For me, I have low light and bright DC room lights without an inverter.
My goal is to have emergency lighting, charging etc. And find the right inverter to start up a 12amp /120 volt deep freeze and small appliances periodically.

• Rated Power: 355W
• Open circuit voltage (VOC): 47.8 V
• Max power voltage (VMP): 39.2 V
• Short circuit current (ISC): 9.65 A
• Max power current: 9.06
• Maximum system voltage: 1000V UL
• Fuse Rating: 15 A
• IP68 Junction Box with bypass diodes and industry standard solar connectors
• Weight: 49.6 lbs
• Dimensions: 78.5×39.37×1.58 inch

 

[cisumma]

The winter sun skirts right along midway through the trees and the summer sun ( nowhere to be found today, lol) is really not much over the tree line so I'm wondering if 20 degrees from perpendicular is really worth it.