It's rated for 48V systems, it's an OEM switch.+1 for +.
What voltage is your switch rated for, do you have a link to it?
It says it's rated high enough.Thanks for the help regarding voltage rating.
I was also not happy from the replies i was getting from Victron. When i asked them about their 48V switch they were not clear and they never told me that I CANNOT USE their switch for my system. I was thinking that 48V was the nominal voltage rating, but i think it's dangerous to go on with that.
So i found this one which is rated up to 60V. What do you think?
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I thought that most were. But you would have to check the specs.Do you know of any specific model from Blue Sea that can go to 60V or more?
I’m not seeing anyDo you know of any specific model from Blue Sea that can go to 60V or more?
Great info by others already. I asked about the voltage because it's tough to find something rated for 60v, I went down the same path recently.It's rated for 48V systems, it's an OEM switch.
But the same rating applies for the VICTRON switch which is much more expensive.
Looks the same as this one: https://www.amazon.com/Master-Battery-Switch-Screws-12-48V/dp/B07S8XBZRJ
It's even harder to find one that's UL listed. I searched all over Amazon recently looking for a DC breaker switch, and couldn't find one that was 100A+, 60V+, and UL Listed. I seriously considered one that was around $140, which seemed way too high. It looked high quality, but I couldn't find anywhere that it was UL Listed.Great info by others already. I asked about the voltage because it's tough to find something rated for 60v, I went down the same path recently.
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60V Disconnect disconnection overload?
I'm planning ahead for adding my 3rd pack and having trouble deciding on a proper disconnect. I attached a crude diagram of the planned setup and a photo of how things sit currently (expect the SRNE is in service) the packs will be reconfigured and put in some sort of enclosure / rack / cabinet...diysolarforum.com
Blue Sea has similar switches some of which can support 80V (72 Volt system). WARNING, there are cheap knockoffs out there, be aware of that and don't furtle with switches, breakers or fuses, that is NOT where to pinch pennies.
I don't plan to open the switch with current flowing. Even Sol-Ark warns not to open the built in battery breaker with current flowing.
For me a Blue Sea e9003, 275 amp continuous rating at 48 volts is adequate. I have one on each 160 amp hour battery. Each battery has a 150 amp class t fuse for ocp. These switches will only ever get turned on or off when there is virtually no current flowing. Purely as an isolator.It really doesn't matter what amperage it's rated for. If it can't safety disconnect the voltage going through it.
But at a higher amperage, the voltage rating is even more important. Because more amperage can be flowing through the arc. That is created by the under rated disconnect.
Do you remember which switch was used? I am concerned whether mine is one of those or not.Someone a while back posted photo's of a cheapo knockoff switch on a 48V system that not only arced but totally melted. Only takes ONE oopsie and your life can be changed drastically & FAST. As I said before, stick to high quality safely components, breakers, fuses & switches, the otherside is not worth a few pennies saved.
Unfortunately I do not, it was posted in here about 6-8 months ago or so. There have been a couple of posts over the years showing the results of cheap knock offs.Do you remember which switch was used? I am concerned whether mine is one of those or not.