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Battery Enclosure Design

aaron_c

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Joined
Jun 18, 2020
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210
Hi Yall

I've looked over a few threads on battery enclosures and I think I have a decent idea of how I want to make mine. But I do have a few questions that I'm hoping yall can weight in on. But first, the basic design:

I'll be making an enclosure similar to this one on marinehowto.com. Pictures from that article (I hope it's ok to share them here?):

1605978074356.png

1605978073945.png

Since I don't know how they did the small metal bars on the side I'll just use 1/4" threaded stainless steel rods, three on the sides and four on the bottom (though if someone DOES know I'd be curious to hear).

Because I'm concerned that the bottom threaded rods would sag in the middle if they were responsible for supporting the weight of all the batteries, I'll support the weight separately, with aluminum channel. An L-bracket will be bolted to the bottom of the large aluminum side pieces so that it can slip under these channels and essentially allow me to pick up the whole unit without putting the combined weight of the batteries on the backs of the four stainless steel rods on the bottom of the enclosure. The L-bracket won't be bolted or attached to the channel so that it doesn't prevent tightening of the enclosure. I'll try to draw a picture or two.

Here's how I imagine one side of the enclosure with the l-brackets, and the channel that will fit over one of the L-brackets (there would be two pieces of channel in the actual design):

1605979186132.png

Hopefully you get the picture.

So now the questions:

1) What kind of material should I use for the top? Obiously the top is important as it stops stuff from falling on the batteries, and in the marinehowto example he used plexiglass or something like that. That's great, but the prices I'm seeing on 1/4" thick plexiglass seem a bit spendy, and that's before I find some way to cut it properly with my somewhat limited supply of tools. So I'm wondering about just using some 1/8" aluminum sheet, which will run about $14 or so and can be cut to size at midweststeelsupply.com. But my concern is that aluminum, unlike plexiglass, is conductive. Is this a problem? Is it highly recommended that we use non-conductive materials for the top of the battery enclosure?

PS I should mention that I'll be attaching the top with a hinge...again because I have no idea how the marinehowto person attached their top, it looks like they just popped some nails in to the top like you would when working with wood, but I'm fairly sure that cant be right.

2) Should I protect the sides of the enclosure? My battery enclosure will not, itself, be enclosed. Meaning it won't be in a cabinet like the marinehowto one. Yes, I can face the aluminum plate side out in the direction most likely to get poked with sticks or something, but there's at least some chance that something could get at it from the side. Is it worth getting even more aluminum plate to loosely attach to the sides of the enclosure, just to protect the batteries from damage that way?

3) Water: My battery enclosure will likely be placed near the shower. I'll make sure that no water can splash onto the enclosure, but compared to other parts of the trailer it will be a bit humid for brief periods. Is this a problem?
 
I made a piece very similar to the one posted, however I expanded it and used it to hold all of my solar equipment except the actual panels and combiner box.

I bought a piece of plexiglass at Home Depot that was 18" wide and 24" long, 1/4" thick. It was around $25. I made my enclosure this size so I wouldn't need to make any cuts into the plexiglass and it fits my 16 LiFePO4 batteries perfectly. I welded it all together and used mild steel; the legs are 2"x2" square tubes .120 wall and the sides are 16 gauge steel sheet and I mounted my charge controller and battery monitor to the side. The bottom where the batteries sit and the other bottom where the inverter sits is 1/8th inch plate. For the ends, I used 1/4" square tubes and it looks just like the one posted looks. I made mine so the plexiglass slides in and out. I did use angle iron like the one posted, just didn't attach the plexiglass directly to it like theirs.

I've been slacking off on painting it, so I'll get that done here really soon and post up some pics that may be of help in you getting yours done.
 
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Definitely non-conductive for the battery housing top, it’s main function is to stop conductive things shorting the cells.

I use 6mm plywood, and cut plenty of holes in it for battery ventilation.
 
The box I made is made of wood and has three threaded rods per side. I tightened them according to EVE's spec sheet. As a result I could lift it without a bottom. I didn't shake it or anything, but I could lift it. I did of course put a wooden bottom on it.
Hope that answers your question. :)
 
Oh yeah. Also, mine are on a mobility scooter and it rains here a LOT.
So I just covered it with a folded garbage bag and some duct tape.
Not pretty, but it keeps it water proof. :)
To answer your OTHER question LOL. :)
 
Hi Yall

I've looked over a few threads on battery enclosures and I think I have a decent idea of how I want to make mine. But I do have a few questions that I'm hoping yall can weight in on. But first, the basic design:

I'll be making an enclosure similar to this one on marinehowto.com. Pictures from that article (I hope it's ok to share them here?):

View attachment 28187

View attachment 28186

Since I don't know how they did the small metal bars on the side I'll just use 1/4" threaded stainless steel rods, three on the sides and four on the bottom (though if someone DOES know I'd be curious to hear).

Because I'm concerned that the bottom threaded rods would sag in the middle if they were responsible for supporting the weight of all the batteries, I'll support the weight separately, with aluminum channel. An L-bracket will be bolted to the bottom of the large aluminum side pieces so that it can slip under these channels and essentially allow me to pick up the whole unit without putting the combined weight of the batteries on the backs of the four stainless steel rods on the bottom of the enclosure. The L-bracket won't be bolted or attached to the channel so that it doesn't prevent tightening of the enclosure. I'll try to draw a picture or two.

Here's how I imagine one side of the enclosure with the l-brackets, and the channel that will fit over one of the L-brackets (there would be two pieces of channel in the actual design):

View attachment 28189

Hopefully you get the picture.

So now the questions:

1) What kind of material should I use for the top?

I have no idea how the marinehowto person attached their top
It absolutely should be non-conductive in my opinion anyhow.
And the tops are screwed on. Not nailed on. :)
 
Oh yeah. Also, mine are on a mobility scooter and it rains here a LOT.
So I just covered it with a folded garbage bag and some duct tape.
Not pretty, but it keeps it water proof.
Fantastic! That's probably more humidity than mine will deal with most of the time...
 
Oh interesting. How did you get the screws to grip the insides of the 1/4" aluminum sheet? I didn't think metal would accommodate something like that :unsure:
It is not mine but simple metal screws will do the just. Self threading ones will even resize the hole a bit for you as well. :)
Just get robinson and not flathead screws. :)
 
I'm reading the doc for my "Lishen 272 Batteries"...at one point it says "Don't contact cans directly or with other conductive material during the using process." Kind of seems like they're saying the batteries shouldn't be in contact with something conductive like, say, aluminum. Are they just being paranoid? Is the translation even more off than I thought? Thoughts?
 
Since I don't know how they did the small metal bars on the side I'll just use 1/4" threaded stainless steel rods, three on the sides and four on the bottom (though if someone DOES know I'd be curious to hear).

My guess is that those small metal bars are covering up threaded rod. My question on that is, "Will the small metal bars prevent the sides from compressing the battery cells?" If so, I wouldn't use the bars. Getting the bars cut to just the right length to allow x PSI of compression would be challenging. I covered my threaded rod with plastic tubing. The tubing isn't necessary - it's more an aesthetic addition - but it does make it easier to pick up the battery by the threaded rod.
 
Battery won't care about humidity but electronics would. If a PCB isn't conformal coated, then spikes of humidity from a shower would cause condensation which can kill electronics by shorting, also kill PCB by growing copper dendrites. Specs for electronics tend to be "5% to 95% RH, non condensing." It's the "non condensing" part that will get you. You could look for Parylene or other conformal coating to treat PCB.
 
Oh interesting. How did you get the screws to grip the insides of the 1/4" aluminum sheet? I didn't think metal would accommodate something like that :unsure:
1/4" is thick enough you could thread it. I did that with 1/8" to mount DIN rails (using #10-32).

Another way is to install female or male thread inserts:

 
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