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Battery stayed off for 18 months. Now one cell seems to be dead. What to do?

pvieira91

New Member
Joined
Aug 16, 2024
Messages
22
Location
Portugal
Good evening everyone,

Around 18 months ago, I purchased a Seplos Mason 280Ah pre-assembled battery. My plan was to install it in the new house I was building, expecting to do so 2-3 months after the purchase. Unfortunately, due to construction delays, the battery remained unused during this period.

Aware of the risks, I decided to check the battery before buying the other components of the ESS system. When I powered it on and reviewed the menus, the State of Charge (SOC) showed around 49%, so I assumed everything was in good condition.

I then proceeded to buy a Victron Multiplus II, a Cerbo GX, an ET112 energy meter, and the remaining materials to connect everything. However, after completing the installation and turning on the Multiplus, it shut down unexpectedly after a short period. This struck me as odd, so I double-checked everything but couldn't identify the issue.

I decided to disconnect the battery and try again, and this time, the Multiplus stayed on as expected.

Upon revisiting the Seplos battery menus, I noticed that one of the cells displayed a significantly different voltage. While 15 of the 16 cells were around ~3295mV, cell 11 was showing only ~150mV. Ouch! This is likely what caused the Multiplus to shut down.

After contacting the seller, they advised me to check if the nuts were properly tightened. Unfortunately, this is where I made another mistake. I decided to test a torque wrench I had recently purchased. I set the torque to 4 Nm, as advised, but the wrench allowed me to apply a significant amount of force—possibly due to a malfunction. While tightening, the nut slipped, and I accidentally broke part of the cell's bolt. 😡

Now, I'm hoping for some guidance on what to do next:

  1. Is it possible to reactivate the faulty cell, or is it dead?
  2. Can I remove that cell and connect the 10th cell directly to the 12th cell?
    • If so, how should I proceed, and will the BMS need reconfiguration?
    • If not, is it possible to replace just that one cell? If so, do you know any European stores or websites where I could purchase a replacement?
Thank you for your time and any advice you can provide.

Kind regards,
Pedro Vieira

PXL_20240816_140609021.jpgPXL_20240816_140614090.jpgPXL_20240816_140617374.jpgPXL_20240816_140621227.jpgPXL_20240816_170202990.jpgScreenshot 2024-08-16 at 22.48.52.png
 

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Something is worng with yoru cell all of your other cells are 3.2 or higher, that other cell should have not gotten low, if all the other cells were around the 2.8v and this one down to .165 then potentially it could be a problem with the battery not being charged.

Look at the cells make sure they are of a good grade by examining the qr code.
 
I'm already in contact with sales engineer. He asked me for the serial number of the battery. Let's see. Do you think that the cell can be repaired? The voltage is really low (165mv), isn't it beyond the limit to be saved?
I have a DC power supply, should i try to charge that cell individually? I asked CHATgpt about it and it told me that, due to the low voltage, the cell may be damaged and it can be dangerous. Is that so?
 
If you want to try that, set your charger to a low amperage, give it a few minutes, then check the voltage again. If the cell really is that low, it'll show a voltage change pretty quickly.

Also, keep an eye on the app/screen and see if that cell voltage changes when you apply the charge. If you don't see a change when you apply voltage that's another indicator of a bad lead connection.

Fortunately for you the bars are all bolted instead of welded so it won't be too hard to just replace the cell.
 
If you want to try that, set your charger to a low amperage, give it a few minutes, then check the voltage again. If the cell really is that low, it'll show a voltage change pretty quickly.

Also, keep an eye on the app/screen and see if that cell voltage changes when you apply the charge. If you don't see a change when you apply voltage that's another indicator of a bad lead connection.
how many ampers do you recommend to first try the charging?
 
Like 1 or 2, you're just looking for a change to see if the cell will even function.

If that works maybe go to 10a and limit the charge to 3.2 and walk away. Hopefully it'll absorb enough to get the BMS to talk to it again and start balancing up.
 
Like 1 or 2, you're just looking for a change to see if the cell will even function.

If that works maybe go to 10a and limit the charge to 3.2 and walk away. Hopefully it'll absorb enough to get the BMS to talk to it again and start balancing up.
thanks, I'll try to do that today and I'ill share the results. I still have the issue of the cell terminal that is half broken :rolleyes:Can i unscrew the terminal? I mean there's still a like 3mm outside of the cell. Or is there other ways to fix that?
Another question, in order to charge it, do i need to extract the cell from the battery or can I leave it in the battery but without the bar bus connected?
 
Will that lead reach the other nut?

If it is a grub screw, you can usually grab it with pliers (remove the bus bar first) and hand spin it out of its hole. If you can't get it to turn by hand, it's probably a welded stud and you're best off to just get 1 replacement cell.

Pull off that bus bar and get us a pic please.
 
Also the bus bar seems a bit damaged to. I need to force it a bit to enter in the terminal. The side were i applied more force doesn't seem 100% right
Screenshot 2024-08-17 at 18.27.47.png
 
if it's an easy task,
From the picture it looks like some of the stud is still above the level of the cell terminal material. Remove the cell from the battery assembly for easy access. It may be the stud was fixed with locking compound, apply local heat, soldering iron tip on the broken stud to soften the compound. Use grips to remove the stud. If its broken with no protruding part, carefully drilling the stud and using a stud extractor may work. This is not an easy task. Edit, just seen you latest pic, looks easy.
Before you embark on a mechanical repair verify that the cell is usable . Test the voltage with a meter direct on the cell terminals. Attempt to charge with low current power supply set to no more than 3.5 volts.
A search on the forum will produce discussions on how to recover from stud damage.
 
Also the bus bar seems a bit damaged
Looking at the picture again it may be the stud and base may be a complete assembly, laser welded to the cell terminal. If this is the case a simple stud replacement is not possible. You may be able to repair with a stud extension.
Screenshot_20240817-200059_Chrome~2.jpg
 
Like @Rednecktek said ... just disconnect that one from the BMS. First fix the stud .. if you can't fix the stud then you will need to disconnect BMS from battery...pull the front cover ... undue the pressure plate ..... remove the BMS on top ... and then slide all the batteries out and replace it ... always make your replaced battery at the very front in case THAT one goes bad also ... I personally put the battery all back together -- leave the cover unscrewed so you can remove it easily ... and then fire it up ... make sure your NEW battery is close to the other 15 in there ... it will take time but the balancer will finally get it balanced ...
 

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