My EG4 manual says the battery terminal torque should be 60 in-lbs (5 ft-lbs) but my wrench only goes down to 15 ft-lbs. Does 5 ft-lbs mean at least that? Does it cause damage to go over, as long as you don't strip the threads?
OP, take it from a real expert, we pay no more than $12 + tax with a coupon for that torque wrench, never full price. I am certified Harbor Freight shopper.Get a torque wrench. A 1/4" drive from harbor freight is about $20.
OP, take it from a real expert, we pay no more than $12 + tax with a coupon for that torque wrench, never full price. I am certified Harbor Freight shopper.![]()
For real though, if the torque spec is 5lbft of torque youmightwill almost certainly shear the thing at 15lbft, and may even damage the battery terminal itself.
Tariffs must be the culprit.OP, take it from a real expert, we pay no more than $12 + tax with a coupon for that torque wrench, never full price. I am certified Harbor Freight shopper.![]()
Cheap electrical tape takes care of that. Don't forget to wrap the adhesive layer out on the first layer.do they make one in non-conductive material
do they make one in non-conductive material![]()
How many torque specs have you seen where it means a minimum? I personally haven't ever seen one. It's either a single value or a range.
Single value means, "set torque wrench to this value, and stop once torque reached."
Torque is indicated for specific reasons - fastener pre-load as dictated by fastener tensile strength, and clamping force. Too much torque, and you may yield/fracture the fastener. To little, and you don't get the needed clamping force.
Get a torque wrench. A 1/4" drive from harbor freight is about $20.
Old school for $19 on Amazon:
The nearest place to buy a torque wrench is an hour away and closed. It's dark and power is out, so I'm asking questions that are a little desperate. I can run the genny all night, so it's not an emergency, but I was excited about getting the new battery running.To answer your question, I've never used a torque wrench. For some things, I can understand why torque specs are what they are. Too loose and the connection may be unsafe. Too tight and you may strip it, weaken it, or have trouble getting it off. I've never owned a snazzy sports car, so I've never had to tighten lugs exactly.
Always did it by feel.
With battery terminals, I don't understand what the big deal is with exact torque.
Torque is indicated for specific reasons - fastener pre-load as dictated by fastener tensile strength, and clamping force. Too much torque, and you may yield/fracture the fastener. To little, and you don't get the needed clamping force.
You usually just tighten it until it stops under moderate pressure, then give it another 1/4 to 1/2 turn. Done.
It's fine as long as you audibly say "click" when you do it.My wrist is calibrated to the national standard.![]()
Could you MacGyver a wrench and a fish scale?
Always doing it one way doesn't mean you're doing it right.
Because you don't understand this:
^ A perfect recipe for never getting torque right and potentially stripped threads.
If you have no other choice, "wrist tight".
Grip ratchet/wrench as shown with thumb and index finger aligned with fastener/pivot point.
Tighten no more than you can achieve with only this hand in this position.
View attachment 285781
Check connections for heat.
Order/procure a torque wrench ASAP.
I'll just wait until morning an go get the right tool. I said I didn't understand. I didn't say I was foolish enough to charge ahead anyway.![]()
Hey, you presented a different story in an emergency situation. I flubbed and blew my Class-T fuse this past week, and rather than go without power, I bypassed it and went fuseless for about 24 hours.
There's best practices, and there's what you do at different levels of desperation. Assuming you are roughly of average strength, the technique I described should provide sufficient clamping force with little to no risk of over-torquing.
Now, if you're this guy:
View attachment 285789
All bets are off...