Be patient with the new/ignorant guy!

[Ziggy With It]

That’s a good size list of loads .
I would skip the micro wave and cooker off grid , or maybe run a small generator for them off grid .
Lights don’t really use any power so you are good there , the tv is ok just turn down the brightness a little bit and it uses a lot less power .
My c pap uses less power and if it dosent you should look into a new unit .
My old unit uses about 55watts if I add more heat it uses more , I don’t use heat on my unit .
My face would freeze to my mask this time of year , and that brings me to the heater, my system would work down to about 30o temp out side , colder then that my heat would run all the time and kill my battery’s .
I would use a buddy heater some time allso but below 20o I can’t get the trailer warm no matter what .
You frig is ok allso , but just the frig bring your system to medium size .

then you have to mount panels on a flat roof witch kills Power production especially this time of year .
If you mounted 6 300 watt panels flat on your roof with 20” hanging off the back they should fit.
The over hang acts like a small porch if the back door is open .
I would use a 24v 2000watt inverter charger with 200 AH worth of battery to start
I have 3 295 watt panels that bring in 750 watts or a little more at noon on a clear perfect day in June for 4 hours +-
this time of year I get half , 400watts with one string but I have 5 strings ?
on a cloudy dark day I get 200 watts on all 5 string and some times I get now power at all

I'll go down the list.

I can probably get away with not using the microwave for a few days. I'm using it for popcorn and heating up a sandwich at the moment but will start doing other stuff like air frying french fries.

My CPAP is provided by the VA, so that's what I get. On the few nights when I've been off grid with it and using the extra special $300 battery it went for about 4-5 hours with the humidifier on and 8 hours with the humidifier off. May have gone more, but I was awake so I really don't know how long it would have lasted. But I guess I don't need the humidifier on if I have heat.

I have absolutely NOOOOO plan to be anywhere near 20o. So far, I've been caught in a freak 33o for a couple of nights and the heater worked fine. But 20o??? Only if I get caught somewhere that I shouldn't be!

I have no idea what "medium size" is.

Okay, so I'm looking at a 24v system and 200 AH to start. I know there are also 48v systems, but, again, I have no idea when or why I would need either.

 

[John Frum]

@Ziggy With It is "mooch-docking" a viable strategy for you?

I think that is what you are doing currently.
The most simple form is just running an extension cord to a house with mains power.
If there is always going to be mains power where your trailer is parked it might be a good basis for your system.
You could also get a small internal combustion engine generator to plug that cord into when mains power is un-available.
This kind of setup can be designed to integrate solar at a later date.

 

[Rednecktek]

Okay, so I'm looking at a 24v system and 200 AH to start. I know there are also 48v systems, but, again, I have no idea when or why I would need either.

A 24v system should be fine for up to about a 3Kw system, which sounds like it might be a good option. The 48v systems are really a good idea if you're going to be going larger like a 5Kw system or so. The biggest advantages are smaller wire size which are easier to work with and smaller fuses in the system which are easier to find and safer in the event that they pop.

Also that 200Ah to start is 200Ah of USABLE power, so 200Ah of Lith or 400Ah of Lead Acid.

 

[rmaddy]

A 24v system should be fine for up to about a 3Kw system, which sounds like it might be a good option. The 48v systems are really a good idea if you're going to be going larger like a 5Kw system or so.

To the OP - when he mentions 3kW and 5kW system he means the size of the inverter. The idea is to keep the amps reasonable. A 3kW inverter on a 24V system is about 150A. Any more and the wire sizes get difficult (and expensive).

 

[Rednecktek]

To the OP - when he mentions 3kW and 5kW system he means the size of the inverter. The idea is to keep the amps reasonable. A 3kW inverter on a 24V system is about 150A. Any more and the wire sizes get difficult (and expensive).

Right. Forgot to mention that.

What I mean in the fuse sizes is that if a 150a fuse blows it's a pop and smoke. At 300a it's a flamethrower.

 

[Ziggy With It]

@Ziggy With It is "mooch-docking" a viable strategy for you?

I think that is what you are doing currently.
The most simple form is just running an extension cord to a house with mains power.
If there is always going to be mains power where your trailer is parked it might be a good basis for your system.
You could also get a small internal combustion engine generator to plug that cord into when mains power is un-available.
This kind of setup can be designed to integrate solar at a later date.

Yes, I am currently moochdocking at a friend's house. I can only stay a few more days, though. Then I'll probably head on over to a state park and take advantage of the low prices for seniors. My nephew drilled a 2" hole in the side of my trailer to install one of these. Now I don't have to crimp the cord in my door.

For now, it looks like I'll "usually" have some type of power whether moochdocking or staying at a state park. A generator sounds like a good idea. Once upon a time, I had a $100 2-stroke generator that I used to carry with me on the 18-wheeler to power my computer and stuff when I was stuck without a load for extended periods. I'd probably try to find something better these days, but damn! those Hondas are pricey!

 

[Ziggy With It]

A 24v system should be fine for up to about a 3Kw system, which sounds like it might be a good option. The 48v systems are really a good idea if you're going to be going larger like a 5Kw system or so. The biggest advantages are smaller wire size which are easier to work with and smaller fuses in the system which are easier to find and safer in the event that they pop.

Also that 200Ah to start is 200Ah of USABLE power, so 200Ah of Lith or 400Ah of Lead Acid.

I'm pretty sure that Will has convinced me that LiFePO4 is the way to go. So I'm not really considering anything else. Should I?

 

[Rednecktek]

Look at the Champion 2000w Dual-Fuel at your local Home Depot if you're thinking about that. Very affordable, inverter clean power, propane OR gasoline fuel. When you get your solar system built up, it'll be good to use still as most of the AIO inverters will let you plug into it to supplement your solar setup.

 

[rmaddy]

My nephew drilled a 2" hole in the side of my trailer to install one of these. Now I don't have to crimp the cord in my door.

That's a good temporary measure. Ultimately you will want a standard 30A shore power plug on the side of the trailer. Inside the trailer that would be connected to a converter/charger which is connected to your battery.

Then you can buy two adapter cables. One that converts the 30A plug to a 15A plug and one that converts the 30A plug to a 50A plug. With that setup you can get power at any campground or from any standard outlet.

 

[Rednecktek]

I'm pretty sure that Will has convinced me that LiFePO4 is the way to go. So I'm not really considering anything else. Should I?

Nope, if you've got the budget it's the way to go! Anything along the rackmount lines is going to be the best watt-hour to the dollar and they're easy to stack and mount.

 

[John Frum]

I'm pretty sure that Will has convinced me that LiFePO4 is the way to go. So I'm not really considering anything else. Should I?

LFP pretty much needs to be in a temperature controlled environment.
They absolutely can't be charged below 32 degrees Fahrenheit.

 

[Wellbuilt]

In a trailer you could go with a 12v system but since you are building it 24 volt would be better as long as the equipment you have is 24 volt .
And NO off grid French fries ? you wont have enough off grid power to make heat .
200ah Lith battery’s should be a good start .
check this out A little rule to live by ( 200ah battery , 2000watt inverter 2000watts solar )
This is a balance system .
You can use more battery or solar or larger inverter but this is a good size system you should be able to
Run your frig Tv lights but no heat items . Of course you are at a disadvantage with solar panels mounted flat
on your roof .
I don’t really like lith battery’s , I’m a lead acid kind a guy but I’m not hauling my batters around on wheels so Lith would be good for your purpose.
A champion 2000 watt unit would need a power corrected charger to work .
You could power a iota 24charger with 3000 or 3500 watt champion unit
or get a inverter / charger with corrected power factor .

 

[Rednecktek]

A champion 2000 watt unit would need a power corrected charger to work .

?? I was thinking a plug from the AC-In on the AIO to the outlet on the generator.

Yes, a 3000w would be better as it would be balanced with your system, I've run my camp with coffee maker, fridge, and air conditioning off a 2000w HF Predator before so it's kinda surprising just how much you can get out of one. The big take-away here is 1: Inverter generator with pure-sine output and 2: dual fuel, because propane stores forever and gas is available everywhere so having the option is worth the almost negligible cost difference.

As for heat, since you're starting from scratch, think about the chinese diesel heaters. Yes, you have to have an extra fuel tank involved, but they'll heat the place up Real Quick! Very little power draw and available in 12v or 24v power options.

 

[Wellbuilt]

I’m sure you could arrange you schedule to be in a warm area for the winter months .
You could try just using 4 300 watt panels and see how it go’s. I’m sure it would work most of the year .
You could just plug in this time of year.
I don’t get much sun now

 

[Wellbuilt]

?? I was thinking a plug from the AC-In on the AIO to the outlet on the generator.

Yes, a 3000w would be better as it would be balanced with your system, I've run my camp with coffee maker, fridge, and air conditioning off a 2000w HF Predator before so it's kinda surprising just how much you can get out of one. The big take-away here is 1: Inverter generator with pure-sine output and 2: dual fuel, because propane stores forever and gas is available everywhere so having the option is worth the almost negligible cost difference.

I’m dont know much about the aio units but they draw a lot of power just being turned on .
If the chargers are Power factor corrected you would be ok with a 2000watt champion if you can get clean power .
I have found that the Champion units just don’t put out rated power I have 3 of them
My Honda’s put out rated power ? I just use gas units the propane costs is a lot more to run

 

[Wellbuilt]

I have this in my sail boat and it works good but propane could work all so
I honk you shoul cook wit propane all so just saying

 

[Ziggy With It]

Okay, I'm going to infer that "AIO" means "all in one" and I shall further infer that we're talking about generator/inverter. Yes?

 

[Rednecktek]

Okay, I'm going to infer that "AIO" means "all in one" and I shall further infer that we're talking about generator/inverter. Yes?

Yes. MPPT, Growatt, etc.

 

[John Frum]

@Ziggy With It

Yes. MPPT, Growatt, etc.

An all in one is an inverter, charger, transfer switch and solar charge controller combined.
Its not a generator.

 

[rmaddy]

Yes. MPPT, Growatt, etc.

I believe you mean MPP, not MPPT.