diy solar

diy solar

Be patient with the new/ignorant guy!

I really hate to keep bothering you guys with this. But I'm still having problems with the energy audit. I got the Open Office installed. So when I click on the link for the audit, it still pops up already filled out with the example. When I switch to Mobile (AC + DC Loads) it brings me down to Line 88 on the form. Is that where I start filling it out or do I have to figure out how to call up a new document or something?
 
Once on the Mobile tab scroll up to row 1, column A. There you will see the yellow area.
 
Once on the Mobile tab scroll up to row 1, column A. There you will see the yellow area.
Thanks! It didn't do that the first time. But I think it works now. So, if I'm correct it says that I need a minimum of 1831 inverter size, 12 Volt battery with minimum of 3554 watt hours/296 amp hours, minimum solar cell wattage of 533. But that's before I add in any kind of A/C for the summer. It does include my heater.

Considering that I will eventually--whether in this trailer or the next--need some A/C, I'm thinking that I should go for a 24v battery with a 3,000 watt inverter and as many solar panels as I can fit on the roof.

What say you fine folks? Keep in mind that for the immediate future I will try to keep to places where I have electricity.
 
Considering that I will eventually--whether in this trailer or the next--need some A/C, I'm thinking that I should go for a 24v battery with a 3,000 watt inverter and as many solar panels as I can fit on the roof.
That looks to be the best bet. Is that an electric heater? If so, that's half your wattage and a massive chunk of your amp hours right there. Have you looked at the diesel heaters?

296 amp hours, minimum solar cell wattage of 533

Mind you that unless you factored otherwise in the Audit form, that is based on 1 day of running and perfect sun production. Neither of which ever happen. If you can, at least double both of those.

Unless it's a really small A/C unit, that's going to eat power like crazy too. For example, a 12,000BTU mini split can consume 1500w or 100Ah per hour.

This is the part where you get to re-do the Audit form with the "Like To Have" numbers and see what it comes up with. That, and start playing around with your devices, sorted by power draw, and see where you can make improvements.

It gets easier each time you play with it and you get to see "What If I...?" real quick. :)
 
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I'm thinking that the next thing I'll have to tackle is a wifi extender that can get a better signal into my metal box. Any tips on that?
 
Okay, so I just found this battery that Will posted on YouTube is in stock at the moment. 24V 200AH LiFePower4 Battery by EG4 $1499. He also has that Growatt 48V AIO, but it looks like no batteries in the correct range at the moment. I am one of those guys who would like to have more than necessary just in case. I also just found Will's thread about preferring either 12 or 48.

So, what I'm looking at right this moment is the 48V 100AH LiFePower4 Battery by EG4 for $1499 and, of course, is not quite in stock yet along with the 3kW Stackable 48V 150VDC 80A Off-Grid Inverter by Growatt for $739. I like the price and the ease of setting this up for a n00b like me. Whatchathank?

Also, along with the battery they're offering $60 off for a 48V 25A 120V Battery Charger by EG4 so $199.99 instead of $259.99. Do I need this since I'll be staying in places with power a lot of the time? And worse case if we go through a week-long eclipse or something I would be able to recharge using a plug in.

This looks like a COMPLETE system of everything except the solar panels that I would need for under $2500. I'm thinking this is a super deal. Am I right?
 
Also, along with the battery they're offering $60 off for a 48V 25A 120V Battery Charger by EG4 so $199.99 instead of $259.99. Do I need this since I'll be staying in places with power a lot of the time? And worse case if we go through a week-long eclipse or something I would be able to recharge using a plug in.
The AIO unit is already a battery charger you can plug into your generator or shore power, so the charger seems kinda redundant.

As for everything else, it looks good if you can get them! :) Since you're going the rackmount direction on your batteries it really makes no difference which voltage you go with as long as it'll talk to your AIO... so yeah, win!

They also make life easy for increasing you battery runtime in the future, also win!
 
You say that as though I know what you're talking about! So, what other options are there? The only other term I've heard is "server" or "server rack" and I don't know the implications of those either.
 
Okay, so that only confuses me even more. Instead of buying a rack to slide the battery into sideways, couldn't I just secure it to the wall in the standing up position like Will has it in this video?

 
Okay, so that only confuses me even more. Instead of buying a rack to slide the battery into sideways, couldn't I just secure it to the wall in the standing up position like Will has it in this video?

You can do whatever you want with your battery.
Your confusion is confusing me.
You asked about rack mount so I gave you a link that explains what rack mount is and another link that shows a rack mount battery.
 
Okay, so that only confuses me even more. Instead of buying a rack to slide the battery into sideways, couldn't I just secure it to the wall in the standing up position like Will has it in this video?
Yes. Think of "Server Rack" or "Rack Mount" as more of a form factor, like AA or D batteries. No matter who makes the battery, if I say "Grab a couple of Double-A batteries" you know what I'm talking about. Same idea with what we call "Rackmount". They're all designed to be the same width and shape.

The reason I call them a win is because, like you guessed, they can be stacked on end, stacked on top of each other, hung from the ceiling with bungie cord, whatever. It's a really convenient form factor that's easy to plan for. Compared to standard car battery style batteries which are all different physical sizes and really don't stack well without making shelves. I mean, just try to picture in your head a pile of car batteries stacked and wired in a pile. :)
 
You can do whatever you want with your battery.
Your confusion is confusing me.
You asked about rack mount so I gave you a link that explains what rack mount is and another link that shows a rack mount battery.
Yeah, what I found on that link was stuff about racks. I didn't even realize that I was asking about a rack-mount battery. I'm not getting/building a rack if I can avoid it. My goal is to take up as little space as I have to. My trailer is only 7X14.
 
Yes. Think of "Server Rack" or "Rack Mount" as more of a form factor, like AA or D batteries. No matter who makes the battery, if I say "Grab a couple of Double-A batteries" you know what I'm talking about. Same idea with what we call "Rackmount". They're all designed to be the same width and shape.

The reason I call them a win is because, like you guessed, they can be stacked on end, stacked on top of each other, hung from the ceiling with bungie cord, whatever. It's a really convenient form factor that's easy to plan for. Compared to standard car battery style batteries which are all different physical sizes and really don't stack well without making shelves. I mean, just try to picture in your head a pile of car batteries stacked and wired in a pile. :)
Yup. That's the information I need. I just remembered in one of Will's videos he said something about being sure to orientate the battery correctly so that the cells weren't putting weight on the ones below them. So that was my concern along with a rack taking up so much area.
 
Okay, so I contacted Signature Solar about my needs. Here's what I said:
Ziggy said:
I have a 7X14 cargo trailer and need to power my CPAP, small refrigerator, TV, Keurig, heater that I will likely eventually replace with a rooftop heating-A/C unit. I will also be charging small things like cameras, computer, and phone. I was thinking of getting an induction burner, but most are advising against it as it takes too much power. But I''d like to have it. I live in south Louisiana but plan to travel extensively.

Anyhow, I''ve chosen and added to my cart the 48V 100AH LiFePower4 Battery and 3kW Stackable 48V 150VDC 80A Off-Grid Inverter by Growatt. First, I''d like to know if these are good together. But then I have no clue at all about solar panels and would really like to have some. Please recommend.

Does the Growatt take an AC connection to recharge the battery if necessary?
They replied quicker than I expected and here is what they said:
Signature Solar said:
Bryan, those 2 units work perfectly together.

I would suggest the 455W panels wired in a 2s6p configuration with a 6 string combiner box.
So, since you guys already know how little I know, I'm hoping you'll be as patient and informationally generous as you have already been. 2s6p? I'm guessing that's 6 panels which sounds like a bunch for my needs @455W each. 2s? 2 series so then run those in parallel hence the need for the combiner box? Or is the combiner box needed because their panels won't work in series?

Also, anybody know where I can get the panels mounted in Louisiana, Texas, Mississippi, Tennessee, Alabama, Florida?
 
2s6p? I'm guessing that's 6 panels which sounds like a bunch for my needs @455W each. 2s? 2 series so then run those in parallel hence the need for the combiner box? Or is the combiner box needed because their panels won't work in series?
2S6P is 12 (2 x 6) panels. Take two panels and connect them in series. Take 2 more and connect them in series. Do this a total of 6 times. You now have 6 pairs of panels where each pair is in series. Then using the combiner box you connect the 6 strings in parallel.

The combiner box is needed because you are combining more than 2 strings into parallel and the combined output will require a much larger wire to carry all of the amperage. Each string in the combiner box will need its own fuse/breaker.

Having said all of that, of course it is impossible to get 12 455W panels on the roof of a 7x14 trailer. And if you'll get far less even if you add a rooftop A/C unit (which you really can't run on solar anyway so that's a bad plan).
 
2S6P is 12 (2 x 6) panels. Take two panels and connect them in series. Take 2 more and connect them in series. Do this a total of 6 times. You now have 6 pairs of panels where each pair is in series. Then using the combiner box you connect the 6 strings in parallel.

The combiner box is needed because you are combining more than 2 strings into parallel and the combined output will require a much larger wire to carry all of the amperage. Each string in the combiner box will need its own fuse/breaker.

Having said all of that, of course it is impossible to get 12 455W panels on the roof of a 7x14 trailer. And if you'll get far less even if you add a rooftop A/C unit (which you really can't run on solar anyway so that's a bad plan).
Yeah, there's no way I can get a dozen panels up there. 4, maybe 6 if I get creative. But why would they say that when I gave them my trailer dimensions??? Hard to find good help, I suppose.

So, my new question is: Can I not hook up more than 2 panels in series? Like, 6 of 'em and just do away with the combiner box? Or do I want to set them up in parallel so's I can have more fuses?

I did see some LG portable A/C units at Costco for just over $300 that looked nice. But I'd really prefer to have a rooftop unit because of space limitations. Most of the time I "should be" in position to plug in somewhere. But it would be nice to boondock and use the A/C. So, with the battery will the solar panels not be enough to run the A/C?
 
Yeah, there's no way I can get a dozen panels up there. 4, maybe 6 if I get creative. But why would they say that when I gave them my trailer dimensions??? Hard to find good help, I suppose.

So, my new question is: Can I not hook up more than 2 panels in series? Like, 6 of 'em and just do away with the combiner box? Or do I want to set them up in parallel so's I can have more fuses?

I did see some LG portable A/C units at Costco for just over $300 that looked nice. But I'd really prefer to have a rooftop unit because of space limitations. Most of the time I "should be" in position to plug in somewhere. But it would be nice to boondock and use the A/C. So, with the battery will the solar panels not be enough to run the A/C?
Panels can go in series as long as the combined Voc, adjusted for the coldest temperature you will ever encounter, does not exceed the solar charge controller's max PV input voltage. You might get 6 in series but you might need a very large and expensive charge controller.

If you want A/C to run on battery via the inverter, then you need to find one with the lowest wattage usage you can find. Also plan on only using it on sunny days, during the day, when the solar panels can provide enough power to run it. I have a 5000 BTU window unit A/C in my 7x14 cargo trailer camper. It uses about 430W when running full blast. My 990W of solar easily runs that most of the day. My battery will start to take over as the sun goes down. I never run it at night while boondocking. My solar will recharge the battery by late morning before the A/C needs to be turned back on.

Rooftop A/C units are notorious for being power hogs. It will be tough to use it much while boondocking. Plus the rooftop unit will take up a lot of roof space making it hard to add solar panels. Add a rooftop fan and suddenly you won't be able to add enough solar to run everything.

Figure out what you really need to power. Do a proper energy audit. Then you can determine how much battery and solar you really need. If that doesn't physically fit then make some hard choices about what you really need. Iterate until it works. You might have to play Tetris on the roof with the solar panels and shop around for different panels that will physically fit. Once you choose the specific panels you can work out their arrangement which will in turn dictate the needs of the charge controller.

Keep in mind that you might need to go with propane for heat and cooking instead of electric in order to support a big A/C, for example. Don't buy stuff until you have a final plan that is going to actually work. Otherwise you may waste a lot of money and/or time and end up with a system that doesn't meet your needs.
 
BTW - consider a mini split A/C instead of a rooftop model. They tend to be far less power hungry, quieter than window units, and they don't take up any roof space.
 
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