If you were to always be plugged in then you could get by with no solar and just a small battery to keep the fridge running while driving.
Which furnace do you have?
Oh, you'll have a tank. You'll want to wash dishes and wash yourself, so even a couple jerry cans of water and a small pump will be needed for living. There are quite a few options for small (like 2 gallon) water heaters or electric on-demands that are sink mounted.
You may find that it's more effective to go with 12v lights over 120v lights because every time you convert power from one type to the next there's an efficiency loss, so many times it's better to take your (for example) 48v DC battery -> 12v DC @ 95% than it is to take your 48v DC -> 120v AC @ 85% to upconvert it for things like lights. If you end up small enough to go with a 12v system then there's no conversion loss.
I have the Propex HS2000. The exhaust is vented outside as well as the air intake. The unit is mounted on the floor. Two holes were drilled in the floor to the outside to run an exhaust hose and an intake hose (1" diameter each) under the trailer. The hot air coming from furnace has no extra humidity due to burning propane. It does need electricity to run the blower fan when it cycles on.
www.vancafe.com
excelonlinestore.com
Nice solution.Propex HS2000 6500 BTU Interior Gas Heater
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2 D-sized batteries to provide a spark to ignite the propane.
Okay, so far I am downloading the spreadsheet. Hopefully I'll be able to figure out how to use it. I've never used one before.You are going to need a lot with that list of power hungry items. Before you buy a single thing, do an energy audit. Work out every detail of the electrical system. Post it up for feedback. Once it all looks good and will meet your needs, then start buying stuff.
System Energy Audit and Sizing Spread Sheet
To get the spreadsheet, click on the orange button at the top of this page. This sheet is intended to help you plan your system. Fill it out down to the last decimal place, look at the results..... and then make your best guess;) Notes...diysolarforum.com
Yeah, for now I'm not really boondocking. I spent a week before I got my fridge in a few WalMart parking lots. I spent a couple of nights in a couple of Louisiana State Parks. I just spent a week in Poverty Point Reservoir State Park in Delhi, LA, for a whopping $79.75. I'm currently camped in a friend's yard for a week. Then I'll probably head for Palmetto Island State Park and see if I can match that sub $80 week. Then I have my very first disc golf tournament as a pro in Opelousas, LA. They have RV hookups at the park and there appear to be people who LIVE there. So I'll look into getting a space there for a week or two.If you were to always be plugged in then you could get by with no solar and just a small battery to keep the fridge running while driving.
If you want to boondock then you need more battery and probably some solar. It all depends on your level of boondocking. Just for a weekend or for weeks at a time?
All of this plays into the final design. If you want to boondock full-time then you need to minimize electrical items. No electric heat, no electric cooking, etc. Hard choices may lie ahead.
For now I've been using disinfecting wipes to do the very small amount of dishes. I'm mostly a sandwich kind of guy. For restrooms I've always had someplace so far. But I haven't looked too far into the future yet.Oh, you'll have a tank. You'll want to wash dishes and wash yourself, so even a couple jerry cans of water and a small pump will be needed for living. There are quite a few options for small (like 2 gallon) water heaters or electric on-demands that are sink mounted.
Another thing to consider... in the costuming and cosplay world we have a saying: "That looks great, but can you pee in it?". You'll probably need to figure out something to do with meals AFTER you've eaten them.
I have a 2015 RAM 1500 Eco Diesel, tuned and deleted (167,000 miles) and Timber Grove Enterprises air bag rear suspension. I spend the few $ to get an oil analysis at every oil change and the engine is looking really good so far. At 100,000 miles I changed the fluid in the transmission and rear end and had those analyzed also, although not really necessary.
Possibility. He helps me out a lot, so I try not to bother him too much.
