Beginning to Build. Checkout My Wiring Diagram

[ManKzin]

This is my 8th Wiring Diagram. Please check it out and make any recommendations as you see fit, as I am beginning to build tomorrow along with the wheeled cart I have designed for it. I will upload the actual Cart Diagram along with pictures of the whole system to the "Show and Tell" Thread.

****Below is the updated 9th Wiring Diagram based on a commenter's reply.

 

[HRTKD]

Since your panels are in series, you can skip the fuse. A dual pole DC rated breaker can be used instead of the PV disconnect. But the use of the PV disconnect isn't wrong at all.

If you're putting the MRBF holder for the solar charge controller cable on the busbar, that's at the wrong end of the cable. The fuse or breaker for the solar charge controller should be as close to the solar charge controller as possible. For that position I like the Blue Sea 285 breaker.

4/0 from each battery to the battery busbar is overkill. You could get by with 2/0. 4/0 after the battery busbar is appropriate. However, since your diagram doesn't include any distances, we don't know for sure if 2/0 is acceptable.


Instead of two battery switches, you could use just one between the battery busbar and the common busbar. The inverter should then connect to the common busbar not the battery busbar. The inverter would need to be fused, but it wouldn't have to be a Class T fuse.

Your 60 amp LiFePO4 charger is connected to the wrong busbar. Put it on the common busbar not the battery busbar. Otherwise, the shunt won't see the current going into the batteries and it will report a lower state of charge.

 

[MisterSandals]

This is my 8th Wiring Diagram.

For a cart system it seems overly complicated. The distances should all be short and a single positive and negative bus bar would suffice.

Look how simple this is: (though i'd add an MRBF on each battery instead of one for the battery bank):

RV Solar Power Blue Prints

Building a vehicle mounted solar power system? Let me help.

www.mobile-solarpower.com

I'd take the savings and buy a great SCC with bluetooth, Victron 100/50 or 150/70 to make it enjoyable, easy and reliable.

 

[HRTKD]

For a cart system it seems overly complicated.

Agreed. I don't understand the earth ground. If it's mobile, how's that going to work out?

 

[mikefitz]

The fuse or breaker for the solar charge controller should be as close to the solar charge controller as possible.

This is not correct, the fuse should be close to the positive buss bar. It's the battery power that could damage the connecting cable, the controller power is limited by the panel power.

 

[ManKzin]

Agreed. I don't understand the earth ground. If it's mobile, how's that going to work out?

The Earth Ground is for the Solar Panel Frames, nothing else. Though I was planning on grounding the the MPPT Controller and Inverter to the Earth ground, but instead decided that just grounding them to the negative battery busbar was sufficient. According to NEC 250, which states you don't have to ground systems that are 60V or lower.

 

[ManKzin]

For a cart system it seems overly complicated. The distances should all be short and a single positive and negative bus bar would suffice.

Look how simple this is: (though i'd add an MRBF on each battery instead of one for the battery bank):

RV Solar Power Blue Prints

Building a vehicle mounted solar power system? Let me help.

www.mobile-solarpower.com

I'd take the savings and buy a great SCC with bluetooth, Victron 100/50 or 150/70 to make it enjoyable, easy and reliable.

Since your panels are in series, you can skip the fuse. A dual pole DC rated breaker can be used instead of the PV disconnect. But the use of the PV disconnect isn't wrong at all.

If you're putting the MRBF holder for the solar charge controller cable on the busbar, that's at the wrong end of the cable. The fuse or breaker for the solar charge controller should be as close to the solar charge controller as possible. For that position I like the Blue Sea 285 breaker.

4/0 from each battery to the battery busbar is overkill. You could get by with 2/0. 4/0 after the battery busbar is appropriate. However, since your diagram doesn't include any distances, we don't know for sure if 2/0 is acceptable.
View attachment 262981

Instead of two battery switches, you could use just one between the battery busbar and the common busbar. The inverter should then connect to the common busbar not the battery busbar. The inverter would need to be fused, but it wouldn't have to be a Class T fuse.

Your 60 amp LiFePO4 charger is connected to the wrong busbar. Put it on the common busbar not the battery busbar. Otherwise, the shunt won't see the current going into the batteries and it will report a lower state of charge.

The PV Connector Box is mostly for safety, such as lighting strikes since I live in Florida. I realize that it is price approximately $100 more than the lower priced option i could go with, but again lighting strikes.

The wiring diagram is for visual purposes only and does not show wiring lengths. The negative 4/0 wire from one of the batteries to the battery bus bar is 12.5", while the positive 4/0 is 11.5" (Including the MRBF). The longest run will be from the battery bus bar to the inner bus bar OR Inverter will be about 2', with the MPPT 4 AWG also being about 2.3' all other connections will vary from a 2"- 7".

As for using 4/.0 instead of 2/0 for the heavy lifting, I decided to go with 4/0 as my local Hardware Stores did not sell 2/0 by the foot and i had to get it in either 5' or 10' increments, which were only $30 more than a 2/0 AWG. Using 4 AWG for the MPPT and the Fuse Box, is because I also had to buy that in increment and the MPPT Controller accepts 2 AWG. Though, I may still buy some 2 AWG since I can buy that by the foot.

As for having 2 battery disconnect switches (2 Legs), it was safer than having a potential load amp of close to 500A on one wire, with all devices (Except Charger) going at once.

Thanks for the suggestion of placing the 60A Charger on the interior Bus Bars. That make sense to me. I think I might have contemplated it at one time, but then I re-did the Wiring Diagram and forgot.

Thank you for the input. I Greatly Appreciate it.

 

[ManKzin]

For a cart system it seems overly complicated. The distances should all be short and a single positive and negative bus bar would suffice.

Look how simple this is: (though i'd add an MRBF on each battery instead of one for the battery bank):

RV Solar Power Blue Prints

Building a vehicle mounted solar power system? Let me help.

www.mobile-solarpower.com

I'd take the savings and buy a great SCC with bluetooth, Victron 100/50 or 150/70 to make it enjoyable, easy and reliable.

The Wiring Diagram is actually just for visual purposes only. My Car Diagram will have all the wiring and placement of components, these plan sheet will also be to scale as I have access to a large format print that can scan 24"x36".

As for using 2 additional bus bars, the reason is that I have three 12V 300ah 200A BMS batterie. In order to keep the batteries balanced while charging, all the positives and negatives wires from each battery terminal to the bus bar must be the same length as its brothers (All 3 positive wires must all be the same length and all the negative wires must all be the same length. Have seen many YouTube videos concerning this topic).

Thank you for the input. It is Greatly Appreciated.