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Behold! My $1200 Tesla charger!

ClinicalScientist

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Feb 21, 2022
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After months of research, reading the forums, and wrenching. I finally did it! I built a 4.8 kWh storage with 1.3 kWh panels Tesla charger that’s portable and good looking. Here’s the breakdown:

XYZ 1500 watt pure sine inverter: $200
First solar MPPT controller (60 amp): $100
8 x 165 watt panels: $20 each on Craigslist
4 x mighty max AGM 100 amp hour: $700
Wires and connectors etc: $40

AMA!
 

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$20 for $165W per panel! such a deal. How do they perform?
So you are able to bond Neutral and Safety Ground to satisfy the Tesla charger?
 
$20 for $165W per panel! such a deal. How do they perform?
So you are able to bond Neutral and Safety Ground to satisfy the Tesla charger?
Yes! I did bond neutral to ground inside the GFI receptacle. I didn’t want anything back to the inverter, so I kept it simple and made the charger happy.

So far the Craigslist panels suck! Well, maybe not. At best with direct sun I’m getting 850 watts, so about 65% rated. The super cheap charge controller might be my limitation.
 
The objective of this installation is to accumulate energy while the car is away (eg. working hours) and to inject it in the evening at a higher current than the solar panels would?

Is there a specific reason for which you chose to make a dedicated system for the car and not to combine everything for home and car?

I am really curious about your expectation for this system and why/how you came to this choice.

I really like what you have done; you are now free from the petrol mafia.
 
The objective of this installation is to accumulate energy while the car is away (eg. working hours) and to inject it in the evening at a higher current than the solar panels would?

Is there a specific reason for which you chose to make a dedicated system for the car and not to combine everything for home and car?

I am really curious about your expectation for this system and why/how you came to this choice.

I really like what you have done; you are now free from the petrol mafia.
Yeah, I work during daylight hours, so I needed a way to store the energy and get it back when it’s dark. Charge batteries during the day- drain them at night - repeat sort of thing.

I started down this path, because we are planning to buy a new house soon, so I wanted something “portable” that wasn’t tied to my house grid in anyway. After doing some more research I discovered “grid tie” inverters that can be pretty easily moved from one location to the next, but I would have to get a limited version, because we have no net metering here. It will save money and it kinda all comes from the same place, but I like the idea that I can bring this setup camping etc.

Thank you for your kind words and I appreciate the interest!
 
@ClinicalScientist , How many miles of range does this add to your car?
If I use just the batteries (while it’s dark) I’ll get 12 miles of range. 4.8 kWh @ 50% DOD = 2.4 kWh usable and I get 5 miles per kWh of range.

If I’m able to charge during the day the math says 1.3 kWh panels x 6 hours good sun = 7.8 kWh = 39 miles of range. In reality I get about 65% of that, so I’m getting 25 miles per day. My goal was to get 20 miles, since that’s my normal driving commute.
 
After months of research, reading the forums, and wrenching. I finally did it! I built a 4.8 kWh storage with 1.3 kWh panels Tesla charger that’s portable and good looking. Here’s the breakdown:

XYZ 1500 watt pure sine inverter: $200
First solar MPPT controller (60 amp): $100
8 x 165 watt panels: $20 each on Craigslist
4 x mighty max AGM 100 amp hour: $700
Wires and connectors etc: $40

AMA!
Could you give some more specification for each component and may be a Web link?

I am very curious to evaluate the efficiency of your system, such as:

- how much solar energy get received and stored in the battery,​
- and how much energy get stored in the Tesla battery after all the conversions?​

It seem to me that you have a 12V batteries system and 120V AC output?
If so, I wonder if setting a 48V batteries and using a 240V AC output would have been more efficient?
(I read that the Tesla charging under 240V, even on 20A (16A nominal 80%), is more efficient than 120V on 20A).
 
Could you give some more specification for each component and may be a Web link?

I am very curious to evaluate the efficiency of your system, such as:

- how much solar energy get received and stored in the battery,​
- and how much energy get stored in the Tesla battery after all the conversions?​

It seem to me that you have a 12V batteries system and 120V AC output?
If so, I wonder if setting a 48V batteries and using a 240V AC output would have been more efficient?
(I read that the Tesla charging under 240V, even on 20A (16A nominal 80%), is more efficient than 120V on 20A).
Yes, the closer in voltage you get to your output, the less inversion that will have to be done and less deficiency lost. I have 4 12v batteries wired in series and parallel creating 24 volts. You’re right about the 220 being more efficient. Basically the faster you charge the better added kWh percentage you will get. This is mainly due to two reasons: heat loss and the fact that the Tesla has a small charging wattage that’s used to run fans motors etc. seems to be stable around 200 watts, so if you charge faster you don’t need the car to be “on” as long and you get that energy added to the battery instead.

I did contemplate doing a 220/240 setup, but 120v inverters are much cheaper and easier to find. Also with AGM lead acid batteries you get more amps the slower you draw the amps. So it’s a trade off that I will loose efficiency either way.

Here’s some links to the products I bought:

First Solar MPPT Charge Controller 60 amp, 12V 24V Auto 60A Solar Panel Charge Regulator, Max 100V Input with LCD Display for Lead-Acid Sealed Gel AGM Flooded Lithium Battery https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B08FM89...i_i_718T5BVMRZ66S9RJ7942?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

XYZ INVT 1500W Power Inverter Pure Sine Wave Inverter 24V DC to 110V 120V AC with LED Display Dual AC Outlets for Car RV Truck Boat (1500W24V) https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B07YP7X...i_i_6R2E0QMNR1E8ZNTMZBJE?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

12V 100AH SLA Battery https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B00S1QCK94/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_2CGD059D5R91APMHB24D
 
If so, I wonder if setting a 48V batteries and using a 240V AC output would have been more efficient?
(I read that the Tesla charging under 240V, even on 20A (16A nominal 80%), is more efficient than 120V on 20A)
You are correct, 240 volt charging is more efficient. That was why I asked how many miles of range he got from the 2400 Watts of useable capacity of Pb batteries. He actually gave us a theoretical number assuming five miles per kWh. That theoretical number is optimistic for a Tesla Model 3 unless the commute is at a speed of less than 50 MPH with very little stop and go. I rarely get that with my Model 3. I have obtained that on a level country road with no traffic while keeping speed below 50 MPH.
This was a great starter project to learn about batteries and inverters. I hope @ClinicalScientist uses some analytical physics to give us some useful data from actual measurements. My personal opinion is that LFP batteries would provide a more efficient storage system and they will provide a longer term value. Yes they initially cost more per Kwh of capacity but they have better charging efficiency and are more forgiving if they do not get fully charged every day.
 
You are correct, 240 volt charging is more efficient. That was why I asked how many miles of range he got from the 2400 Watts of useable capacity of Pb batteries. He actually gave us a theoretical number assuming five miles per kWh. That theoretical number is optimistic for a Tesla Model 3 unless the commute is at a speed of less than 50 MPH with very little stop and go. I rarely get that with my Model 3.
This was a great starter project to learn about batteries and inverters. I hope @ClinicalScientist uses some analytical physics to give us some useful data from actual measurements. My personal opinion is that LFP batteries would provide a more efficient storage system and they will provide a longer term value. Yes they initially cost more per Kwh of capacity but they have better charging efficiency and are more forgiving if they do not get fully charged every day.
Agreed! I will report back with some real numbers after I get a few days or weeks of data. I’m interested to see if charging for longer @ 5 amps or shorter @ 10 amps will provide the best efficiency for my AGM batteries vs kWh lost due to slow charging speed. It might be a toss up, but I’ll crunch the numbers. I’ve included my battery discharge characteristics for your input.

You can check average watts per mile. Mine is usually around 270, so 5 miles per kWh is, for most people, a lie. I just used it as a standard since that’s what Tesla says you could theoretically get.

I know I’m going to wish I started with LFP, I’m learning. I already regret lugging these 80 pound batteries around. Cost was a major influence for my poor choices.

I have a question for you guys: how efficient are your panels? I’m trying to figure if my charge controller, wiring or panels are the culprit for a 65% efficiency. I’m weary about shorting the panels to measure amps. I’ve heard you should only do this below 50 volts. I’m @ 80 volts. Advice?
 

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Here is a different setup that charges during the day from a 120 volt inverter.
 
I have a question for you guys: how efficient are your panels? I’m trying to figure if my charge controller, wiring or panels are the culprit for a 65% efficiency. I’m weary about shorting the panels to measure amps.
Panel efficiency is hard to compare because none of us are able to duplicate Standard Test Condition (STC) in which the panels are rated. MPPT charge controllers are more efficient than PWM charge controllers but MPPT controllers typically need higher voltages which can simply be accomplished by putting panels in series. Lithium batteries are more efficient because they do not need to spend time at the top of the Constant Voltage (Absorb) stage to make sure they are fully charged each day. Also Lithium is not affected by Peukerts which means you get more kWhs because voltage sag affects power. The efficiency of the onboard charger in the Tesla is anecdotal from some posts on some Tesla forums. I don't have actual numbers but every discussion says it is the same over head in Watts whether you are charging at 1000 Watts or 4000 Watts. Fundementally it is hard to get anything over 1800 Watts from a 120 volt circuit.
I use a $30 Amp meter from DROK which I purchased on Amazon. It will accumulate kWhs also. No worries about mistakes, the best teacher is our mistakes if we can admit our mistakes.
 
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Yes! I did bond neutral to ground inside the GFI receptacle. I didn’t want anything back to the inverter, so I kept it simple and made the charger happy.

So far the Craigslist panels suck! Well, maybe not. At best with direct sun I’m getting 850 watts, so about 65% rated. The super cheap charge controller might be my limitation.
Do you see the Wattage goes up if you put on heavy loads?
May be the batteries are getting full so the SCC draws less power from the panels.
 
Yes! I did bond neutral to ground inside the GFI receptacle.
I have a 3000 watt 120 vac 24 volt dc inverter I’d been hoping to level 1 charge an EV off and did not know about this bonding.

I’ll have to look more into this if I get an EV.
 
Do you see the Wattage goes up if you put on heavy loads?
May be the batteries are getting full so the SCC draws less power from the panels.
Yeah, the input wattage does for sure does lower as the battery reaches fullness and it exits out of bulk charging. I am really only basing my max watts when the batteries are at 50% DoD. I assume the SCC should be delivering max amps at this DoD. It could be that the SCC tries to keep around 30 amps since that’s “max” for most AGM batteries. Problem is it is around 30 amps regardless of C. 30 amps for my setup is only .075C. Well below the max current. Maybe my SCC doesn’t know how many amp hours my setup is and keeps it at 30? Or maybe it’s rates at 60 amps, but never actually achieves it. I wish someone with the same SCC could compare numbers.
 
Thank you for providing the components information.

I am looking for an inverter of about 1.5kW too, which will have to be connected 24/7 but will be used mostly at night.

I would be interested to have an idea of the consumption when idling with no load, and the efficiency under load (like 1kw).

Can you turn on and off the Inverter remotely using may be a relay, or do you have to use manualy the power switch?

Can you automatically disconnect the load when the battery is too low and reconnect the load when the battery is charged?
 
Thank you for providing the components information.

I am looking for an inverter of about 1.5kW too, which will have to be connected 24/7 but will be used mostly at night.

I would be interested to have an idea of the consumption when idling with no load, and the efficiency under load (like 1kw).

Can you turn on and off the Inverter remotely using may be a relay, or do you have to use manualy the power switch?

Can you automatically disconnect the load when the battery is too low and reconnect the load when the battery is charged?
My inverter doesn’t have a remote control function, but there are plenty on Amazon that do in fact come with a remote control on and off switch.

This inverter has a low voltage disconnect built into it, but it is way too low for my purposes. It’s set at 20.5 volts which doesn’t protect the batteries at all. Vitron sells an external voltage drop disconnect that reconnects at a set voltage. It’s programmable down to 0.1 volts either direction.

Victron Energy Smart Battery Protect 12/24-Volt 65 amp (Bluetooth) https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B07MXG5XZ4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_YVKERRNPN85TT07XGXTT?psc=1

My SCC does have a voltage disconnect on the DC load side, but I would have to run it through a contactor or relay for it to work. Here’s the one I might buy to save some money since I already have a way to set the voltage:


CGELE CG Solid State Relay SSR-80DD DC to DC Input 3-32VDC To Output 5-240VDC 80A Single Phase Plastic Cover https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B09HRX922Z/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_66ESKBSXN2E3KW88SH7H?psc=1

You can usually look up the no load specs of each device independently. And the efficiency, although what they tell you and what you actually get are sometimes two different things.
 
I’m weary about shorting the panels to measure amps.

Getting tired of shorting your panels so many times? ;)


Here's how I tested some.
I used a suitably rated switch to close circuit into a short (or load).
A panel can have OK Voc and Isc, but still perform poorly. I used some electric heaters to load them to approximately Vmp & Imp
(AC rated switches an thermostats set so always on.)

If all your panels measure similar to each other, then none have failures, possibly all have uniform degradation.
There are several mechanisms for PV panel failure and degradation.

 
I have a question for you guys: how efficient are your panels? I’m trying to figure if my charge controller, wiring or panels are the culprit for a 65% efficiency. I’m weary about shorting the panels to measure amps. I’ve heard you should only do this below 50 volts. I’m @ 80 volts. Advice?

I think I read most of this thread, hoe I am not repeating too much, there are some really smart people already on this thread.

At solar noon sun, I am hitting over 240 watts from my 300 watt panels, and that is the output of the Enphase inverters, but they are claimed to be 97% efficient. So I would think a panel that is getting decent sun with good tilt angle should be able to hit 80% of it's STC power rating, depending on where you live though. Haze in the sky can knock the output down a bit more. A few days ago, all 16 of my panels were well over the 80% (240 watt) mark, but today, it looked just as sunny, but I only hit 230 watts on the best panels, a few were down to 220 watts. The air was hotter and less wind, so the solar panels also got hotter in the sun.

If you want to do the VOC and ISC tests on your solar panels I would only do it one panel at a time. Not only is it a lot safer when you open the short, it will also let you see if you have a weak panel as you can compare them all separately. Ideally, you want the open voltage and the shorted current of all the panels to match and be at least 80% of the ratings on the panels. If you are running the panels in series, just one weak panel will drop the output of the entire string.

Have you looked up how many "sun hours" you should be getting at your location and with your panel tilt and heading angles? I saw you said "6 good hours of sun" but it does not really work like that. Sun hours is the total equivalent sun you get in the entire day of sun. Today, I was getting some power from my solar panels for 11.5 hours, to get that 5.4 sun hours of energy. The power starts very low at sunrise, climbs to the peak close to panel rating at solar noon, and then drops back down to zero again at sunset. I use this site to get a decent estimate of sun hours.


Go to the bottom left of the page and click on the arrow under "Solar Irradiance Tables". It will give you a rough idea of the sun hours you should be able to get on a clear day each month. Closer to winter, the numbers drop, and closer to summer the numbers are better, the table give the average for each month. I get 15% more at the end of March compared to the beginning of March as the days are getting longer. I was getting about 5.4 sun hours a day this past week, but I am in sunny SO Cal. If your 1,320 watts of solar panel were here, they should produce about 7.1 kwh a day, if they were turned 20 degrees west, and 20 degrees up from flat towards the equator. That is the position of my array, at 32 degrees north latitude.

To make use of the panels you have, you do need a lot more battery. You solar panels should be able to make 130 amps hours or so in a 48 volts system. So with AGM you should have close to 300 amp hours to make them last. If you can really put 7 kwh into your car at a more realistic 4 miles per kwh, then you might get 28 miles of range per day. A bit less in winter, and maybe a little more in summer.
 
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