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Benchtop Power Supply for under $100.

Or this one to get me 60 Amps:

It is about $40 plus shipping.
Spec sheet says the overload protection is hiccup mode, not constant current limiting which to my understanding means the output disconnects if you exceed rated current.

Have you actually top balanced a large capacity battery using this? I am looking for a power supply to top balance a set of 8, 280 Ah cells.

-Edit-

Never mind, I see DZL already commented on this. I will keep looking.
 
I won't recommend the RSP-750 or RSP-1600 as AC-DC charger, since they lack the options of any charging stages. They are just powersupplies with CC mode.
Works great as charger for topbalancing, or charging when needed (when adjusted to 3.65V or 29.2V for a 8S bank), but they wont shut down when the batteries are full, so eventually overcharge the cells. You can set them tot 27.2V (=3.4V/cell) but that has the disadvantage the charge, especially at the top-end, will be much slower.
It basicly just acts as a 'floating voltage supply only'.
As said, by adjusting the voltage to 3.65V/cell its perfect for manual usage (topbalancing, incidental charging) but with those settings, you can't keep them connected unsupervised.

I'd go for the Meanwell PB-600 or PB-1000 (or even the RPB-1600)

Those all offer 2-stage or 3-stage, so you can charge with a higher voltage (boos), and once full the charger goes either to float or just shuts down (As preferred for LFP)

See my reaction in

Another thing to concern: I'm not sure about the long-term reliability of a powersupply with CC mode. It might be designed for incidental usage, and I don't know if its design (Especially cooling) is made for long-term CC limiting, unlike a dedicated charger
 
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If you only need <40V, cheapest is an cisco Catalist powersupply. ($10)

That one provides 42V @ 20A. Along with the Riden 6018 you can get a cheap powersupply up to 40V output
Note: You need to modify it slightly to be powered on (Mostly just a simpe wire) and need to make your own connections (
)

Slightly larger is
That one provides both 12V @ 113A and 50V @ 28A Note: the 50V is -50, so you need to switch + and - to use it as a 'normal' 50V powersupply, but that will work

Note: Riden has mentioned something about an RD6024 which is supposed to be released this year. (24A)
https://budgetlightforum.com/node/74564 (Riden Tech is an active user there)
Perfect, I bought 2 of the Cisco 1300W supplies to play with.
I skipped the larger PS as it will need 240v and I have 240v in my little 75 year old house in 2 rooms only.

I have been scratching my head since reading Steve's post about using ATX power supplies.

I am looking at the max volts an ATX PS can do, and I was trying to find server PS with higher voltages. Thanks for the suggestions to both of ya!

Here is my solution:
Cisco 40V 1300w PS > Riden head unit > Max 40V @ 18A (720w)


Q: Can I use a Mean Well LRS 300-48 with my Riden 6018w?


I have a few ebike packs I am playing with, I want to use them with a buck converter on my boat to power electric reels.

Sorry, I am very rusty in my EE, been deep in diapers and now in teen hormones ;-)
 
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High Amp, lower voltage CV/CC heads

Are there CV/CC heads that can do like 15V/60A below:

Another user posted a link to

TekPower TP1560E DC Adjustable Switching Power Supply 15V 60A Digital Display​

this is the same brand that Steve is trying out.

15x60 = 900w,

Most of us wanting to bulk up our 280Ah cells when we first get them to test can use a power supply like this to CV/CC faster at 3.5v.
 
Server PSU's are generally 12V, but with high amps.
Switches/router PSU's are 40-50V depending on the model, so more suitable for a high current demand with higher voltages like the Riden is capable of.

That TekPower is an easy all-in-one, but at a price. Yes, 60A is great, but you need proper wiring also for these currents. A Riden 18A (or 24A once its available) powered by a 12V server PSU will work as just as fine and is a lot cheaper. Yes, it will take 2-3 times longer, but if you serie-charge the cells first till 1 hits it HVD you don't have to top off that much anymore. And the thinner wires make it much easier to handle / less voltage drop and issues (60A continously requires good cables, crimps and connections)

ATX power supplies: Most of them have a limited 12V line. You don't need massive amps at the 5V rail. And some provide 2 seperate 12V rails, but you need a single (high-amp) rail. I don't see any reason why you would prefer an ATX-style PSU compared to a server PSU. More amps on a single 12V rail and cheaper...

Here is my solution:
Cisco 40V 1300w PS > Riden head unit > Max 40V @ 18A (720w)
That would work fine. And you're able to pull full load of the Riden.
You only need to add a resistor (see the youtube link) to get the Cisco PSU to turn on.
Output will probably something like max 39V, but I'm unsure how to exactly read the Riden datasheet for its voltage drop between input and output.
It will be a nice match, with 18V max output of the Riden and 20A which is the PSU capable off.
Also, if you modify it, the cooling fan of the PSU can also provide cooling for the Riden..
Not sure about the internals, but you might even be able to fit the Riden into the Cisco's case, only rewire the output terminals and you have a solid case/powersupply with decent cooling. (Might be noisy tho)

Q: Can I use a Mean Well LRS 300-48 with my Riden 6018w?



I have a few ebike packs I am playing with, I want to use them with a buck converter on my boat to power electric reels.

Sorry, I am very rusty in my EE, been deep in diapers and now in teen hormones ;-)

Yes, would work, but as with the Cisco, output will be something like 47V max or so. So not suitable to charge a 48V bank, which requires about 51V. But most ebikes are 36V so that will work (but in that case, the Cisco also will do)
You can even power 2x RD6018 with a single Cisco to make a huge dual-output powersupply if you get the bigger versions.

The disadvantage of the LRS300 (LSR350 I think, since you're linking to the 350W specs) is it only provides 7.3A, so with the Riden set to >approx 20V you can't pull the full 18A without overloading. And once the overload is triggered, the PSU will shutdown and not recover.
You're limited to 350W (approx 330W or so I think if you take the Riden's losses and cooling fan and some small margin). So with 36V, you can only pull 330/36 = 9.1A
48V Shutdown and latch off o/o voltage, re-power on to recover
Source: https://www.meanwell.com/scripts/resource/pdfJS/web/viewer.html?f=LRS-350&pdf=LRS-350-SPEC.PDF

I personally find this annoying, since you will probably (accidentally) push it over its limits, thus shutting down the whole thing.
Repower, reconfigure, reconnect... retry.. going to be a pita
 
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Ohh, I had pondered the TekPower TP1560 but the price was too much.
TekPower TP1560E DC Adjustable Switching Power Supply 15V 60A Digital Display $359 USD
TekPower TP1540E DC Adjustable Switching Power Supply 15V 40A Digital Display $189 USD

Ideally I would have gone with a 0-30V/0-40A+ model as I run 24V Batteries which would have given me more flexibilty. But I have a paired set of MeanWell S600-12 (12V/50A) setup for 24V/50A. And with my Inverter, it can charge up to 100A. So as a compromise the 15/40 works for my 12V pack and for individual cell charging. a 30/30 is like $270 & 30/50 is $659.
 
On another note: You can also use a big-ass 48 or 50V power supply and hook it to a cheap 60A MPPT charger on its PV input. Set the MPPT to either 12 or 24V and you will have a nice beefy charger.
Just connect the power supply to the PV inputs. It can handle anywhere between <setvoltage+2 or so> and 100V generally.
The MPPT will act as a fully functional charger, with float absorbtion and whatever you want.

You only can't use it to topbalance cells unlike that TekPower or another adjustable power supply, but as a cheap 40-60-80A or whatever for a 12/24V bank it will work great.

PWM might work also and they are dirt cheap, but their input voltage is limited, so most likely you can't use 48V PSU for a 12V bank.
The Cisco 40V 1300W (approx 800W since you're only using the 40V output) with a 24V bank and a PWM controller might work fine, and will give you a 30A charger.
The higher rated PSU's won't give you more power, some of them are equally in power at 40 or 50V,and only provide more amps at 12V for example, so you can't base the output on its power rating if you're not utilizing all output voltages.
 
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That may not be the best meanwell power supply for the purpose. It lists the protection as "hiccup mode" from what I understand this will not work well for this purpose (it is not current limiting).

The HRP, HRPG, and some models of the RSP series might be better fits

The...
RSP-500-3.3 or RSP-150-3.3,
HRP-300-3.3,
HRPG-300-3.3
...all have the "constant current limiting" protection mode.

An additional benefit of the RSP-500 is it has remote control (as do some of the other models) and remote sense (which means it can be setup to compensate for voltage drop). But one downside is the 3V model tops out at 3.6V and the 4V model starts at 3.6V, so there is not a model that gives you the full useful range (unless you never plan to charge to 3.65)

Voltage adjustment range varies between the different PSU's. Most can be adjusted in the ballpark of 3.0-3.8, but some--including the RSP-500--top out closer to 3.60

It is important to note that the features and specs of these power supplies can be subtly different. Even within a certain product line (RSP-500, RSP-150, and RSP-320 have different features and protections for instance).

If you search meanwell on this forum there are a few good posts discussing all this in more detail.
Did ya get one? 60A for top balancing LifePO4 cells look WAY ... Better that those common 30V / 10A Bench Power Supplies.
 
For a narrow purpose of just top balancing at high Amps I was thinking of this:

It doesn't go down to 3.6 volts but I have a voltage controlled relay that I could use with a contactor as a backstop. I can finish the top balance with a 30 Amp meanwell that I have that goes to 3.6 volts.
finding a way to top balance a 280 Ah LiFePO4 cell at 30A or 60A ... seems like a worthy goal to me. Did you try that out and get it work for a top balancing operation ? ... I just burnt out my $65 30v /10 A power supply just by touching my bench power supply with battery terminal in reverse polarity. ... when the power supply switch off. even switch off; it went poof w a bit of smoke, and popped ... / and now won't put out voltage ... I like having the 30v as back way to charge my 24v LiFeBank battery bank for if it ever drops below my solar system's cut off voltage ... Plus would welcome getting beyond 10A on a top balance at reasonalble cost. I'll study this thread, while in Ah testing my new 2nd set of 8 280Ah EVE cells. might be doing a Amazon order tonight :+)
 
J
Those look very interesting ... like the 0 -5v 0-60A version w knobs to adjust both V and A, and w lcd that shows the V and A ... for $55 + $28 shipping and the shipping time from China ... I marked it.
Jehu uses one of those in his latest video from couple of weeks back.

3.3 Volts - Mucho mucho AMPS - This is the main need most of have for topping off the 280Ah INDIVIDUAL cells.

Solutions I have found and might just buy all of them unless my therapist intervenes :):

1. Meanwell HRPG 3.3 - these come in 300 watts, seems to be the sweet spot. These have CC/CV function, a little adjustment screw to mod the voltage. Guys on ebike forum https://endless-sphere.com/forums/ love them, one user did a great review.
Catch - back current prevention needed? I plan to charge using HRPG while I watch it and take the cell upto 80 to 90 %.

The lower current versions are cheaper
 
Those look very interesting ... like the 0 -5v 0-60A version w knobs to adjust both V and A, and w lcd that shows the V and A ... for $55 + $28 shipping and the shipping time from China ... I marked it.
And no specs on the min/max output voltage range. I am skeptical a 5V power supply can output 0V at 60A. Many of these switching supplies have a +/-10% adjustment range around their nominal voltage rating (4.5V to 5.5V for a 5V supply is typical).

Let us know what the thing actually does if you order one.
 
And no specs on the min/max output voltage range. I am skeptical a 5V power supply can output 0V at 60A. Many of these switching supplies have a +/-10% adjustment range around their nominal voltage rating (4.5V to 5.5V for a 5V supply is typical).

Let us know what the thing actually does if you order one.
Looking closer at the web link https://www.aliexpress.com/item/33025400349.html? ... I NOTICE; this unit has 95% 5 star reviews /21 reviews (of other version choice/ none for the 0-5v version); & I am not sure if this unit would limit current as a battery charging operation near its' full charge voltage (like a bench power supply does): ... I left this question with the supplier: (followed by what I noted from info. at web site link: for 480W Adjustable Switching power supply with Digital display power supply for LED DC and the 0- 5V 0-60A version (I AM considering this for 3.6v x 60A = 216 Watts of Top Balancing Charge cycles:

My Question (left w supplier) re the 0- 5V / 0-60A version. If used to charge LiFePO4 cells, will this unit act like a battery charger and reduce current when battery reaches set voltage? OR does this type of battery charge require user monitoring and battery disconnect to protect form over charging the Battery?

Info at web link says: ... don't use full load when you use it. We recommend the use power should be 80% of the rated power
The 0-5v 0-60A specs are not included in spec sheet. Attached Info. says: ... When the load device is connected, the current value can be adjusted directly in real time. The maximum current value is the maximum current value of the load device. If the current adjustment knob clockwise exceeds the maximum current value of the device, the digital current value will not last. Real-time synchronized digital display, showing only the maximum current value of the device. ... Uses: Mainly used for various battery charging, DC equipment, DC motor stepless speed regulation, LED stepless dimming, chemical electroplating speed regulation, ... Precautions: *When the charger is used, please unplug the battery and turn off the input power. .. Do not exceed the charging range specified by the battery manufacturer.

I am not sure this will limit current when 3.65 volts is set for a battery charging operation. Some folks here might already know the answer to my question by the "Adjustable Switching power supply" label for unit. I am still learning about these options. ... I will share their answer later, especially if it sounds good :+)
 
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Re: I also burned out a smaller power supply
In case this might help anyone with burnt out power supply issue: Here's something to check out: I opened up my $65 30V/10A power supply after it sparked and puffed some smoke, then stopped showing out voltage on dial, or producing any current on wires. That happened after I briefly touched its' cables to one 3.2volt cell in reverse polarity with the unit switched OFF (not on). .... After opening it up to look further, I discover one of the main wires of power supply circuit had come un-soldered plus was poorly soldered in the first place. Also saw where loose wire hit frame (burnt smudge). Got my unit back in shape via solder :+)
 
Jehu uses one of those in his latest video from couple of weeks back.

3.3 Volts - Mucho mucho AMPS - This is the main need most of have for topping off the 280Ah INDIVIDUAL cells.

Solutions I have found and might just buy all of them unless my therapist intervenes :):

1. Meanwell HRPG 3.3 - these come in 300 watts, seems to be the sweet spot. These have CC/CV function, a little adjustment screw to mod the voltage. Guys on ebike forum https://endless-sphere.com/forums/ love them, one user did a great review.
Catch - back current prevention needed? I plan to charge using HRPG while I watch it and take the cell upto 80 to 90 %.

The lower current versions are cheaper
be nice to see a web link to a specific Meanwell HRPG version soebody is using for Top Balancing LiFePO4 cells. i doubt the 3.3 volt version would work good because the top balancing I know about involve charging up to 3.6V or 3.65v / not just 3.3 volts ???
 
Here's a link to a $56 30V/10A power supply I briefly ordered after I got to a burn out of my past similar one (which I since fixed via soldering a lose wire) ... which is presently charging one 280Ah cell. Though I canceled my order after my fix, I thought this was good less expensive bet from the reviews: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08B62RXQ7/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=A2179Y0WCO4CNP&psc=1
P.S. ... Forget about the 5A versions when 10A versions are available for same or similar price!
 
I found a nice APC powersupply at my work today. Was cleaning oud old servers and equipement, and found a powersupply which we had used a long time ago to power our Foundry MG8 routers. That powersupply is a 3U 19" rack, and contained 3 powersupplies which, powered by 3 external outlets, provided 48V / 150A. And the powersupplies are adjustable to approx 60V output. (3 pieces, 2800W each, 50A each).
( https://static6.arrow.com/aropdfcon...c2fa108f0818aba92ffdd560/apcms28powerrack.pdf )

so instead of dumping them to a scapyard, i took them all. Only going to need 1, since thats plenty enough to make my own powersupply with (probably 2) Riden 6024's if they become availble. Just need to build a nice case and I'll have a 2x 0-60V @ 24A powersupply :)
 
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