Best 280-304 to buy right now?

[Coydon]

If you've not bought it yet I'd seriously consider going 24V. I've pretty much got all the things you listed. The cabling is so much better.

I have fridge, LED light strips, USB chargers, diesel heater, water pumps, water heater, 4G Wi-Fi router; all running of native 24V

The only thing running off the 24V - 12V converter is the MaxxAir fan.

I left room for another Orion when I designed it by 600W of solar is more than enough so leave the Orion turned off now unless the SOC is less than 50%.

What do you have for a 24v fridge?

 

[740GLE]

What do you have for a 24v fridge?

A dedicated DC fridge has 2 times the insulation as a regular 120v fridge they are crazy efficient as they are built for off grid use.

Many modern fridges have inverter type compressors that have variable compressor duty cycles, so in fact they are DC fridges at heart.

 

[Coydon]

Many modern fridges have inverter type compressors that have variable compressor duty cycles, so in fact they are DC fridges at heart.

Can they be rewired to run directly from DC?

 

[pau1phi11ips]

What do you have for a 24v fridge?

I've got a Dometic CRX50, it works on 12 or 24V

 

[Alkaline]

Nor Cold compressor rv fridges work well as well with very little power draw.

 

[740GLE]

Can they be rewired to run directly from DC?

Prob not a simple as I’d imagine the power supply has many voltages for control boards and various other components with much higher voltages than a common DC bank.

 

[Tom1962]

I've got a Dometic CRX50, it works on 12 or 24V

I'm in the planning phase of a shuttle bus conversion... Looking at a 14.5kwh bank @ 24v. Eve cells, Victron inverter components, Wakespeed and 600W of solar. As for appliances, I will be using a single induction cooktop, a microwave, Kuuma calorifier and various other 110V household appliances. I don't plan to boondock more than 10 to 14 days at a time... and when I do, I don't plan to use more than 8kwh/day. My question: why not go for a small 110 fridge (7.5 cu ft) instead of a DC fridge? I can run the fridge on just a tad over 1kw per day (per the energy estimates) and have a much larger fridge. Plus I can get a 7.5 cu ft fridge for less than $200. Am I wrong for going w/ 110 AC vs a DC fridge?

 

[pau1phi11ips]

I'm in the planning phase of a shuttle bus conversion... Looking at a 14.5kwh bank @ 24v. Eve cells, Victron inverter components, Wakespeed and 600W of solar. As for appliances, I will be using a single induction cooktop, a microwave, Kuuma calorifier and various other 110V household appliances. I don't plan to boondock more than 10 to 14 days at a time... and when I do, I don't plan to use more than 8kwh/day. My question: why not go for a small 110 fridge (7.5 cu ft) instead of a DC fridge? I can run the fridge on just a tad over 1kw per day (per the energy estimates) and have a much larger fridge. Plus I can get a 7.5 cu ft fridge for less than $200. Am I wrong for going w/ 110 AC vs a DC fridge?

I think the dedicated RV fridges might handle the environment/vibrations in the van better but you'll probably be fine. If you've got the space go for it.

I needed a fairly small one. My van is fairly big but there's 3 of us in there when we travel. I put 5cm of PIR insulation around the fridge and it uses about 600W/day.

I've got 600W solar, 7kWh 24V battery and a 3000W Multiplus II inverter. We cook on a dual induction hob from IKEA. It was pretty cheap if you don't already have one.

 

[Coydon]

I'm in the planning phase of a shuttle bus conversion... Looking at a 14.5kwh bank @ 24v. Eve cells, Victron inverter components, Wakespeed and 600W of solar. As for appliances, I will be using a single induction cooktop, a microwave, Kuuma calorifier and various other 110V household appliances. I don't plan to boondock more than 10 to 14 days at a time... and when I do, I don't plan to use more than 8kwh/day. My question: why not go for a small 110 fridge (7.5 cu ft) instead of a DC fridge? I can run the fridge on just a tad over 1kw per day (per the energy estimates) and have a much larger fridge. Plus I can get a 7.5 cu ft fridge for less than $200. Am I wrong for going w/ 110 AC vs a DC fridge?

Seems like with your other appliances, you could turn on the inverter for specific usage and save power with it off most of the time. With the AC fridge, the inverter will need to be on 24/7.

Is 500Wh on a 14kWh system significant enough?

 

[pau1phi11ips]

Seems like with your other appliances, you could turn on the inverter for specific usage and save power with it off most of the time. With the AC fridge, the inverter will need to be on 24/7.

Is 500Wh on a 14kWh system significant enough?

Good point. I only turn on my inverter for cooking when I'm away.

 

[SolaroSsaurius]

I'm in the planning phase of a shuttle bus conversion... Looking at a 14.5kwh bank @ 24v. Eve cells, Victron inverter components, Wakespeed and 600W of solar. As for appliances, I will be using a single induction cooktop, a microwave, Kuuma calorifier and various other 110V household appliances. I don't plan to boondock more than 10 to 14 days at a time... and when I do, I don't plan to use more than 8kwh/day. My question: why not go for a small 110 fridge (7.5 cu ft) instead of a DC fridge? I can run the fridge on just a tad over 1kw per day (per the energy estimates) and have a much larger fridge. Plus I can get a 7.5 cu ft fridge for less than $200. Am I wrong for going w/ 110 AC vs a DC fridge?

Regarding the fridge, I'm in the same boat as you.
I've decided for a 230v AC instead of a DC one.
Reasoning: the price difference will allow an extra one if this one goes bad, and extra funds for upgrading the electrical side.
Also if you look closely to both spec sheets (AC one and DC one), even considering the inverter (in)efficiency, the difference is not that huge, and easily offset with some extra solar.
Just my 2 cents...

 

[SolaroSsaurius]

I've got 600W solar, 7kWh 24V battery and a 3000W Multiplus II inverter. We cook on a dual induction hob from IKEA. It was pretty cheap if you don't already have one.

I'm quite interested in your setup, how it's doing, and latitudes you're using it, as I'm buying stuff to do something similar.

I've got 1200w solar (though only 800w permanent as the third panel will be retractable), same(ish) battery size also at 24v, and a 5000w Multiplus II.

Main consumers will be a double induction cooktop (also looking very closely to the IKEA one), microwave, fridge and possibly a multi split AC (already bought, but undecided how to mount it)

Do you have more info / layouts/ wiring diagrams of your van?

Thanks in advance

 

[pau1phi11ips]

I'm quite interested in your setup, how it's doing, and latitudes you're using it, as I'm buying stuff to do something similar.

I've got 1200w solar (though only 800w permanent as the third panel will be retractable), same(ish) battery size also at 24v, and a 5000w Multiplus II.

Main consumers will be a double induction cooktop (also looking very closely to the IKEA one), microwave, fridge and possibly a multi split AC (already bought, but undecided how to mount it)

Do you have more info / layouts/ wiring diagrams of your van?

Thanks in advance

The setup has be great in UK, France, Germany Poland.

The 7kWh battery lasted nearly 2 weeks Easter 2022 with only 300W of solar and 1 hours worth of driving per day (DC-DC charger) but it was exceptionally sunny!

It is so much better with 600W.

Can see most of the setup here before it was boxed in:

Boxer power system

4 new items added to shared album

photos.app.goo.gl

I left space for a second DC-DC charger but haven't felt the need for it in last 2 years.

 

[SolaroSsaurius]

The setup has be great in UK, France, Germany Poland.

The 7kWh battery lasted nearly 2 weeks Easter 2022 with only 300W of solar and 1 hours worth of driving per day (DC-DC charger) but it was exceptionally sunny!

It is so much better with 600W.

Can see most of the setup here before it was boxed in:

Boxer power system

4 new items added to shared album

photos.app.goo.gl

I left space for a second DC-DC charger but didn't feel the need for it in 2 years.

Thanks!
The top right Orion... is it for 24v to 12v conversation?
I was meant to also use 2 Orion for 12v to 24v but you got me thinking...

 

[pau1phi11ips]

Yeah, top Orion is a 24V to 12V and feeds the smaller fuse box. That's pretty much just used for the MaxxAir fan tbh.

Fridge, lights, pumps, diesel heater, USB chargers, 4G router are all running off the 24V system.

 

[Coydon]

I've got a Dometic CRX50, it works on 12 or 24V

Can these be found at a competitive price somewhere / somehow?

 

[Zwy]

I'm in the planning phase of a shuttle bus conversion... Looking at a 14.5kwh bank @ 24v. Eve cells, Victron inverter components, Wakespeed and 600W of solar. As for appliances, I will be using a single induction cooktop, a microwave, Kuuma calorifier and various other 110V household appliances. I don't plan to boondock more than 10 to 14 days at a time... and when I do, I don't plan to use more than 8kwh/day. My question: why not go for a small 110 fridge (7.5 cu ft) instead of a DC fridge? I can run the fridge on just a tad over 1kw per day (per the energy estimates) and have a much larger fridge. Plus I can get a 7.5 cu ft fridge for less than $200. Am I wrong for going w/ 110 AC vs a DC fridge?

Inverters take power even at idle. A DC powered fridge only draws power when it is running. Many times at night, my shunt goes dark because there isn't a draw on the batteries.

One more thing about a fridge/freezer for an RV with limited PV/battery capacity. An upright fridge is not as efficient as a chest type because the cold air will gravitate to the floor when the door is open on the upright. This does not occur with a chest type.

I run a Dometic CFX95 with it split as a freezer/fridge. We can easily get 2 weeks of food stored in it. Just returned from a 2.5 week trip and had plenty of food left over. The 7.5 cu ft fridge you mention will probably be overkill. As fridge size increases, the surface area also increases which allows more heat load to be passed thru the walls. That takes energy to remove.

 

[pau1phi11ips]

Can these be found at a competitive price somewhere / somehow?

I got mine 2 years ago. Seems most things are about 20% more expensive these days