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best buck converter & install

wasteland wanderer

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Apr 29, 2022
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im having issues with finding a buck converter and was wondering what you guys use and how its wired. i have eg 4 48v system. to my understanding the buck converter goes to the bus bars that the battery goes to? I see quite a few buck converters but am also looking for an adjustable one to run appliances perfectly with, without damaging them, unsure what exact voltages i need and am hearing mixed things but i believe as close to 13.8 is best. I am mainly worried about this 2,500 dollar Isotherm fridge, the cruise 200 ss.
 
To get 12V from your battery system is not hard, and do remember that 12V devices are optimal @ 12V.
From 24V Battery system, get a 30V>12V and from 48V battery system get 60V>12V. The reason for the Higher Input Voltage is because when you are charging you can hit that voltage and do not want to fry the converter.

! DO NOT USE POTTED Buck-converters like this, they are crappy and when they fail, they fail open, so full voltage goes through !1669308566987.png

There are several options available to you at various price points because it depends on the voltage you are stepping down and how many Amps output you require for your 12V stuff.



- Installation is AFTER the SmartShunt so that this is also seen as a load coming off the battery bank. If you tap off the common DC Bus, the power used by the converter & 12V devices will not be registered & seen.
- The Converter should certainly be fused as well. This depends on it's requirement related to the amps it outputs.
- Most typically, the converter would be attached to a 12V Panel / Block like these below so that each device is also fused. *WARNING* use only High Quality fuses, many knock offs are not compliant (especially motive types) https://www.bluesea.com/products/category/16/61/Fuse_Blocks/ST_Blade

Depending on how many 12V Amps you have to deliver will help to recommend what converter to use and also if this is Marine, RV or Stationary.
 
To get 12V from your battery system is not hard, and do remember that 12V devices are optimal @ 12V.
From 24V Battery system, get a 30V>12V and from 48V battery system get 60V>12V. The reason for the Higher Input Voltage is because when you are charging you can hit that voltage and do not want to fry the converter.

! DO NOT USE POTTED Buck-converters like this, they are crappy and when they fail, they fail open, so full voltage goes through !View attachment 121647

There are several options available to you at various price points because it depends on the voltage you are stepping down and how many Amps output you require for your 12V stuff.



- Installation is AFTER the SmartShunt so that this is also seen as a load coming off the battery bank. If you tap off the common DC Bus, the power used by the converter & 12V devices will not be registered & seen.
- The Converter should certainly be fused as well. This depends on it's requirement related to the amps it outputs.
- Most typically, the converter would be attached to a 12V Panel / Block like these below so that each device is also fused. *WARNING* use only High Quality fuses, many knock offs are not compliant (especially motive types) https://www.bluesea.com/products/category/16/61/Fuse_Blocks/ST_Blade

Depending on how many 12V Amps you have to deliver will help to recommend what converter to use and also if this is Marine, RV or Stationary.
thank you very much this helped out a ton on confirming what i will need, had this one in my cart for a few days believing this was the one https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08THF63MQ/ref=ox_sc_act_title_3?smid=A3GYM455B71YGR&th=1 . In regards to the shunt, i was going to be using this breaker https://signaturesolar.com/nader-dc-circuit-breaker-60v-200amp/ . Should i still run a shunt? the system i have is an all in one inverter charge controller, the 6500 ex. Not a victron setup and i thought the shunt was only for victron.
 
I would run a shunt regardless the inverter...
I've been using the 600a version of this one with no issues, Bluetooth and wired work ok. I went with 600a because it has 2 posts for easy connection of 2 batteries, I'll have to rewire when I add my 3rd and 4th batteries.
WonVon 400A Smart Battery Monitor - RV Battery Monitor with Shunt Support High/Low Voltage Programmable Alarm for Battery 0V-120V Support Bluetooth for 12V Lithium Sealed, Gel, Flooded Batteries https://a.co/d/9ed4yyp
 
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