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Best LifePo4 charge controller settings known to man for Maximum Service life and Minimum battery stress!!! 5,000-10,000+ cycles?

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Best charge controller settings to achieve 10%-90% usage on lifepo4 ?​


EDIT-UPDATE and the ANSWER to this question. . . This post is a accumulation of all the great and wonderful information given to me by all the great people on this thread. I consolidated all of this into this post and is the result of many hours of research and consulting with the people of this forum. Again thanks every body!!!!! This would not be possible with out you guys. if you believe i missed something or want to amend something please comment on this thread but please do so in a way that can be consolidated and added to this post , . . this is really not my post per say but an accumulation of the knowledge of the people of this forum and thread. .



BEST SOLAR SETTINGS [SO FAR] FOR MAXIMUM LIFE 5,000-10,000+ cycle life


PREFACE The Best settings possible are actually to run from 14%-90% SOC and this has little to due with voltage [besides staying out of the high and low voltage knee] however this is not possible with out a columb meter,or even better a charge controller that operates off of this principle. . Most charge controllers are designed for lead acid and being that the case we have to enter in voltage numbers numbers, so even tho this is not the ideal way to go about it, its the only way for most of us with cheaper and/or older charge controllers. . Here best voltage numbers possible known by the great contributors of this group to achieve the maximum service life possible and put the batteries under as little stress as possible.

BULK/ADSORB 3.45-3.52 [heavily debated] but universally agreed no higher than 3.52 for max service life [3.52 is what victron recommends for max service life
[lower voltage= slower charge times IE [C rate] which is Good but potentially longer in absorb phase which is Bad]
[Higher voltage=faster charge times which is more stressful on cells, BUT less time in absorb phase which is good ] 3.5v-3.52 seems to be a good compromise fast and slow charge times NOTE: Lower voltages means charge rate will be reduced at high SOC and it will be harder to reach 100%. which is great if your shooting for less than 90% state of charge. !!!IMPORTANT NOTE: While the above mentioned data is recommended for minimum stress on the cells it is important that the voltage you set activates your BMS, to keep your cells balanced, if not your BMS becomes useless and will never actually balance , most BMS activate around 3.4 VERIFY at what voltage your BMS activates at . if you are not sure, it just may be better to higher voltage to ensure that its activated[Will Prowse goes all the way to 3.6v OR another option is to keep an eye on it and make sure the cells stay balanced.

FLOAT 3.35
3.35 volts is a good float voltage for high reserve capacity and minimal cell
degradation [3.35 is not really debated if maximum service life is the goal 3.4 if you want a little bit more reserve. Also 3.4 is recommended by many OEMS, however according to some data at 3.35 the cell is not really in a state of stress while anything higher than this it is. . your choice a little bit more conservative or a little bit more reserve ]

CUT OFF 3.1V [but a more ideal verifying the cut off voltage is is to run down battery pack under average load you will be running and then take note of what cell voltage drops off first, once the first cell drops off in voltage , measure the total pack voltage and set low cut off voltage to that measured total pack voltage.
NOTE: In certain high load situations you may get get voltage drop causing the system to "cut off" and shut down under high load even if its not necessarily towards the end of your desired capacity. . , if this is the cause. you may have to set the cut off lower voltage. . 3.1 is a conservative number 3.0-2.9 is recommended for high load situations, but remember this post is all about having the data to make educated choices if your goal is maximum service life and achieving a balance between functionality and maximum service life

OTHER NOTES:
TEMPERATURE-
"""storage at high State of charge and high temperatures promoted such severe losses that the cells in question were unable to recapture capacity that they had lost reversibly""".DO NOT STORE IN HIGH SOC especially in HIGH HEAT, i dont have all the data yet but it seems operating under 32F or over 100F could/will causes damage[especially under 32] as a good precaution in short if your not comfortable the batteries are not comfortable, [this is a super generic but a safe conservative recommendation] As solutions to this conundrum people will run thermostat controlled heat pads and heat blankets for the winter [search the forum] and use water tanks/pads or ac for high temp operation [search the forum] .

VOLTAGE LOSS Every connector in your system as well as wire length attributes to a certain amount of resistance and which results in voltage loss. in other words If you set the charge controller to 3.5 volts the battery may only see 3.2 due to this voltage loss You have to adjust the controller to compensate for the loss. you may also have different losses for different components in your system depending on where there located for example inverter is on a longer length of cable than where the charge controller is located.

HOW TO RESOLVE use a good quality meter . . .measure the terminals at the battery pack , measure the terminals at the controller or inverter, subtract the difference and add this difference to your charge controller or inverters settings. [when testing for charger controller you want to be under charge, for inverter you would want to be under discharge]. measure and test again to ensure this was sufficient compensation

STORAGE, batteries should be stored at about 40% SOC if going to be in storage for long periods of time. . high SOC storage causes premature cell degradation

DON'T BE AFRAID to use the battery at 100% if needed, calendar aging [definition, loss of capacity due to time alone] [thanks will for this input] also plays a role in long term degradation so if even if you baby these cells to the max, with old age you will still loose capacity. .so these numbers above are to baby the cells, but it is perfectly okay to use full 100% soc when you need it , when taken into consideration that the effect that calendar aging has on the battery. Its is a balance between the battery is loosing capacity on its own due to aging and you babying or not babying the cells , because of calendar aging some say who cares and just use it at 100% at all times , however that defeats the purpose of this post of attempting achieve maximum service life. . but it definitely doesn't hurt to use it when you really need it. .
Balance--(run batteries to a high SOC to trigger a good balance on your BMS 4 months or so, -as a maintenance. think of as a equalization ]

A great read by Joey on taking care of your cells https://diysolarforum.com/resources/how-charging-works-in-the-context-of-lfp-batteries.233/download
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ORIGINAL OPENING POST


i have spent about 6 hours reading thru google and and almost every relevant search result this website has as well as youtube. . and and my brain is on information over load. . I have a simple question, but i can only seem to find complicated answers and debates between people. I have several charge controllers and all in one units i will be setting up soon for family members and im looking to find what are the best settings to achieve a usage of between 10%-90% SOC on lifepo4 batteries. . . from everything i read it seems this is the safest for long term reliabilty [10-15 years or more if possible] . . but cant find info how to set the settings to achieve this .. . . . as we all know almost all charge controllers are designed for lead acid, so we are stuck with programming such parameters and have to make do with float and absorption settings. . what im looking for is the approximate voltages settings on a per cell basis for the following

bulk
absorption
float
low voltage cut off


also any other settings you recommended changing for lifepo4. .
should these numbers be different when under load?
any other considerations when using mpp units ?

the most straight forward answer i found was wills on his site, [ https://www.mobile-solarpower.com/diy-lifepo4-solar-battery.html ]
however his recommendations were based on 100% SOC which i prefer not to use since were looking for extra long life with this batteries ,so i prefer to stick to 80% however his post was the most straight forward answer of the 6 hours i have been searching online . . essentially looking for same answer but with 80% in mind. .
Great post and guide . ?
Only thing I would've add is that voltage drop is proportional to the current. No current = no voltage drop.
 
Any imbalance with Parallel cells so far that you have experienced?

It is impossible to get imbalance with parallel cells. What you can get is different characteristics between cells that reduce the capacity of the stronger cell in the pair.

Cell balancing is surely one of the most misunderstood aspects of LiFePO4 battery construction. The amount of misinformation i see on this forum is staggering (especially with respect to parallel cells)
 
It is impossible to get imbalance with parallel cells. What you can get is different characteristics between cells that reduce the capacity of the stronger cell in the pair.

Cell balancing is surely one of the most misunderstood aspects of LiFePO4 battery construction. The amount of misinformation i see on this forum is staggering (especially with respect to parallel cells)
I do understand that but how often do you check parallel cells for integrity especially if they are going to be used over long-term. At 500+ Ah i usually run separate resistance meters that track and watch overitime for voltage drift or resistance imbalance between multiple parallel cells. So far my highest parallel creation was 1000 Ah per parallel setup ( usually 200 Ah 5 in row).And they get out every 2 years for benchtop observation and if passed going back to the battery battery bank. Every battery manufacturer and battery chemistry is different so starting at the beginning takes some learning how to read and find cells in parallel that need attention. 50+kwh 48V setup is easy to manage . Just need to use common sense and experience when playing with this types of energy at one bank setup.
 
I do understand that but how often do you check parallel cells for integrity especially if they are going to be used over long-term. At 500+ Ah i usually run separate resistance meters that track and watch overitime for voltage drift or resistance imbalance between multiple parallel cells. So far my highest parallel creation was 1000 Ah per parallel setup ( usually 200 Ah 5 in row).And they get out every 2 years for benchtop observation and if passed going back to the battery battery bank. Every battery manufacturer and battery chemistry is different so starting at the beginning takes some learning how to read and find cells in parallel that need attention. 50+kwh 48V setup is easy to manage . Just need to use common sense and experience when playing with this types of energy at one bank setup.

I don’t have anything capable of separating out the busbar resistance from the IR of individual cells. I’d like to see the seperate resistance meters you use.

If a parallel pair show up a discrepancy, i will remove them both and check them. Until then i treat them as one cell.

At one stage my battery went over 6 years without me even looking at it - no way i’m taking it apart every 2 years ?
 
It is impossible to get imbalance with parallel cells. What you can get is different characteristics between cells that reduce the capacity of the stronger cell in the pair.

Cell balancing is surely one of the most misunderstood aspects of LiFePO4 battery construction. The amount of misinformation i see on this forum is staggering (especially with respect to parallel cells)
As they are in parallel, the cell voltages should balance out and both cells should discharge fully?
 
I don’t have anything capable of separating out the busbar resistance from the IR of individual cells. I’d like to see the seperate resistance meters you use.

If a parallel pair show up a discrepancy, i will remove them both and check them. Until then i treat them as one cell.

At one stage my battery went over 6 years without me even looking at it - no way i’m taking it apart every 2 years ?
You can put a voltage meter over the item and measure the voltage drop. then R = V / I. Will not work for voltage sources like cells - you would need to use the dV/dI method for those.
 
You can put a voltage meter over the item and measure the voltage drop. then R = V / I. Will not work for voltage sources like cells - you would need to use the dV/dI method for those.

If you have 2 cells in parallel connected by a very low resistance busbar, please explain what sort of voltage meter will seperate the IR of the two connected cells?

For sure measuring the IR of the combined cells is trivial, samcat was saying he is able to measure individual cell IR of cells in a parallel - that’s what i’m interested in.
 
If you have 2 cells in parallel connected by a very low resistance busbar, please explain what sort of voltage meter will seperate the IR of the two connected cells?

For sure measuring the IR of the combined cells is trivial, samcat was saying he is able to measure individual cell IR of cells in a parallel - that’s what i’m interested in.
Sorry. I read "busbar resistance".
 
If you have 2 cells in parallel connected by a very low resistance busbar, please explain what sort of voltage meter will seperate the IR of the two connected cells?

For sure measuring the IR of the combined cells is trivial, samcat was saying he is able to measure individual cell IR of cells in a parallel - that’s what i’m interested in.
Sorry if someone didn’t understand my post. I do remove bus bars for individual cell internal resistance.....for internal resistance under load or charge i use all cells in parallel with known values for each cells. It is just necessary to know where leads are applied on the bus bars and need to be permanent for any future checking to eliminate any difference in measurement. Usually if voltage is higher than single cells in parallel that means that my resistance meter is reading something else than set of cells in parallel. I will post later on how this is done with minimal errors when in the service. One thing we all know that when checking resistance between two meter leads, meter will try to measure closest paths between the leads and resistance will try to find path that is easiest to connect two leads when measuring for resistance.
 
I don’t have anything capable of separating out the busbar resistance from the IR of individual cells. I’d like to see the seperate resistance meters you use.

If a parallel pair show up a discrepancy, i will remove them both and check them. Until then i treat them as one cell.

At one stage my battery went over 6 years without me even looking at it - no way i’m taking it apart every 2 years ?
You definitely got lucky and have good batch of battery cells that are within tight QC tolerances. High quality battery cells are easy to work with. What is your BMS and balancing method? I do prefer active balancers over passive types.
 
You definitely got lucky and have good batch of battery cells that are within tight QC tolerances. High quality battery cells are easy to work with. What is your BMS and balancing method? I do prefer active balancers over passive types.

I have set up dozens of systems like mine for other people - many are approaching the ten year mark with no issues.

Active balancers are fine, i’ve seen too many fail in a state that will destroy a cell though for me to leave one permanently on my pack.

Best way to balance is to use low current (ie low heat) resistors and bleed high cells whenever the battery is at constant voltage (and low current).

In a typical off grid house situation, the batteries spend a lot of time at “full” constant voltage setting. Even if you are only bleeding 0.5A to balance, you can get a few ah/day correction.
 
I have set up dozens of systems like mine for other people - many are approaching the ten year mark with no issues.

Active balancers are fine, i’ve seen too many fail in a state that will destroy a cell though for me to leave one permanently on my pack.

Best way to balance is to use low current (ie low heat) resistors and bleed high cells whenever the battery is at constant voltage (and low current).

In a typical off grid house situation, the batteries spend a lot of time at “full” constant voltage setting. Even if you are only bleeding 0.5A to balance, you can get a few ah/day correction.
Does this balancer have option to be disconnected from battery bank without pulling connector terminals. I.was researching but could not find any On/Off button.
 
It is impossible to get imbalance with parallel cells. What you can get is different characteristics between cells that reduce the capacity of the stronger cell in the pair.

Cell balancing is surely one of the most misunderstood aspects of LiFePO4 battery construction. The amount of misinformation i see on this forum is staggering (especially with respect to parallel cells)
with parallel cells, diagnosis while cell terminals are still bonded, seems difficult (impossible?)

still value to parallel cell arrangement

my ignorance of parallel cell behavior fuel my design requirement of one cell per voltage sense lead.

grateful for your insight. thank you ?
 
with parallel cells, diagnosis while cell terminals are still bonded, seems difficult (impossible?)

still value to parallel cell arrangement

my ignorance of parallel cell behavior fuel my design requirement of one cell per voltage sense lead.

grateful for your insight. thank you ?

Best way to look at parallel cells is just to imagine them as a single cell.

It really is no different to how a manufacturer makes different size cells, there are simply more parallel plates inside the cell. With parallel cells half the cell is parallel externally instead of internally.

There is unfounded concern about rapid discharge between parallel cells in case of single cell failure. It is no different to a single cell suffering dendrite failure. The dendrite short circuits part of the cell and the rest of the cell has a short discharge of current that has the effect of open circuiting the dendrite (blows it like a fuse)

I haven’t seen a failure mode that results in prolonged high current discharge.
 
Best way to look at parallel cells is just to imagine them as a single cell.

It really is no different to how a manufacturer makes different size cells, there are simply more parallel plates inside the cell. With parallel cells half the cell is parallel externally instead of internally.

There is unfounded concern about rapid discharge between parallel cells in case of single cell failure. It is no different to a single cell suffering dendrite failure. The dendrite short circuits part of the cell and the rest of the cell has a short discharge of current that has the effect of open circuiting the dendrite (blows it like a fuse)

I haven’t seen a failure mode that results in prolonged high current discharge.

Yeah, especially car companies put fuses on parallel cells so if a cell decides to puke and short out then it goes out of loop...

One ref of many:

I don't run multiple cells in parallel (yet hehe), but it seems like fuses would be a good idea for our community as well even though LFP are not at risk for thermal runaway, it could stop a glowing bus bar meltdown leading to a potential fire at worse case...
 
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Yeah, especially car companies put fuses on parallel cells so if a cell decides to puke and short out then it goes out of loop...

One ref of many:

I don't run multiple cells in parallel (yet hehe), but it seems like fuses would be a good idea for our community as well even though LFP are not at risk for thermal runaway, it could stop a glowing bus bar meltdown leading to a potential fire at worse case...

I think these fuses would help if a short circuit was caused by physical damage to the pack. I’ve seen many dendrite shorted cells, never seen (or heard) of one sustaining high current.

I’d be keen to see any real world examples of a shorted cell (not physically damaged) causing pack thermal damage. Very early on with LiFePO4 (twelve years ago), there was a lot of discussion regarding fusing parallel cells. The manufacturers i was involved with at the time advised me they weren’t required - nothing i’ve seen since has changed my mind.
 
@Will Prowse this Thread raises several issues which have bounced around forever. The Proverbial running around the Mullbery Bush which has created a moat due to wear, never ceases.

Would you consider making a Video concerning Parallel Cells ?
Showing how real "A Grade" cells in parallel behave through operation and how if 1 very weak Cell Paired with an "A" cell behave through cycles and IF the "Matched Pair" behaves better or worse between the "Odd Pair" and how their Voltages & IR are through the low to high SOC and under various loads & charge rates. Tricky and a Time Killer but I believe this would be a Very Valuable addition to your Video Library. I would suggest that using smaller <100AH cells would be prudent due to capacity & time to charge/discharge would eat up a boat load of time... maybe 50AH or less even would probably do just fine I would think.

Thanks in Advance for your consideration.
 
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