Best residential plug for 12v in house? (vs 120v)

[TorC]

@45North: No. Do not abuse USB-C that way, unless you implement full USB-PD, which would mean it can only be used for high-tech things that implement full USB-PD. Failure to heed the foregoing will let out the magic smoke from something expensive sooner or later… and probably on the sooner side.

In this case, implementing USB-PD on both the power receptacles and downstream devices is decidedly counter to what I understand the OP's design goals to be.

ETA: I'll note that abusing USB-A/B/mini/micro/etc.-B for 5V to provide more power than the spec was relatively OK, as A) 5V is 5V, B) Most decent ports (computers in particular) will shut down if too much is demanded of them, and C) having "too much" amperage available isn't a big deal. Hence, despite some quirks and annoyances, it worked and, aside from a few inferior products, we didn't hear about magic smoke escaping. USB-PD involves devices asking for higher voltages that would destroy other devices that must be able to be safely plugged into the port.

 

[pollenface]

I'd go with a "32V Polarised 15A GPO"

If you google it you'll see what i mean. It can't be confused with anything else.

 

[CoolWill]

There's also the NEMA 10-20, once used on some appliances in the '60s and 70s. It looks a lot like the Australian power outlet. No modern American appliance uses it but the receptacle and plug is still readily available.

 

[OffGridForGood]

I like these outlets with USB A & C -very neat and tidy installation this way, and no DC wiring to do, since the receptical has built in electronics.
Then for bigger amperage the Anderson plugs in a flush mount plate installed into a blank cover for a standard wall box would work.
I saw on Aliexpress one that combined a 50A Anderson with an Automotive 12V barrel connector with a flip up cover. Neat and tidy installation potential there too, but then DC wiring would be required.

 

[Shimmy]

This thread has prompted me to try to get a bunch of 5-12V jacks installed in high windowsills where my wife puts battery operated candles. She has a problem getting waaaay too many of them, and if I just hard-wire them with a Shelly for control and a spider for 6 at each location...

She won't let me count them, but it is at least 100 candles with 3xAA each... and they only last a month or two.

 

[TorC]

...snip... 100 candles with 3xAA each... and they only last a month or two.

3*1.2V=3.6, 3*1.5V=4.5V. 1.65V fully charged quality alkaline cell*3=4.95V. Given that, I'd expect a 5V USB-type output to be sufficiently within the safe range to feed in. Looks like a good target for cost and environmental savings if it keeps you from buying primary cells.

 

[HarryN]

Wow that was quite a read.
I vote (if this is up to a vote) Anderson connectors,
actullay I like this convention: Yellow = 12vDC, Red =24vDC and Blue = 48vDC.

Color wise, more commonly:
- 12 volt = red
- 24 volt = blue
- 48 volt = somewhat less defined (added but I am always open to suggestions )

- Over 60 volts = often orange

At least when it comes to DC wiring.

For my own use, I put yellow tape on solar (+) wires just to help keep it all straight when wiring vans. (yellow reminds me of the sun )

 

[SparkyJJO]

This thread has prompted me to try to get a bunch of 5-12V jacks installed in high windowsills where my wife puts battery operated candles. She has a problem getting waaaay too many of them, and if I just hard-wire them with a Shelly for control and a spider for 6 at each location...

She won't let me count them, but it is at least 100 candles with 3xAA each... and they only last a month or two.

I have a boatload of NiMH AA (and AAA) cells for the kids' toys. Maybe you need them for the candles!

 

[Shimmy]

I have a boatload of NiMH AA (and AAA) cells for the kids' toys. Maybe you need them for the candles!

As much as it pains me, there is no way I am going to charge 200 batteries every month. Fixed power or nothing unfortunately.

 

[OffGridForGood]

I'll vote for Anderson connectors since I have been using them since 2012. I use traditional red and black for 12 volt and Orange and Gray for 48 volt up to 45 Amps. Above that Orange or Gray for higher Amperage because they are single two pole polarized connectors. That is just a personal choice which is already imbedded in my various systems .

Funny that the Anderson Power pole colour chart doesn't follow common usage by such large groups (Ham Radio, Solar PV, etc)

Anderson Powerpole - Wikipedia

en.wikipedia.org

This is where I saw the Yellow=12, Red=24 and Blue=48volt.
From common use it would seem best to use Red=12, Yellow=24
Doesn't seem to be a common 48-volt colour, But blue seem like a good contrast to the others.
{All my Anderson connectors are Light Grey! Ah!}

 

[Batvette]

@45North: No. Do not abuse USB-C that way, unless you implement full USB-PD, which would mean it can only be used for high-tech things that implement full USB-PD. Failure to heed the foregoing will let out the magic smoke from something expensive sooner or later… and probably on the sooner side.

In this case, implementing USB-PD on both the power receptacles and downstream devices is decidedly counter to what I understand the OP's design goals to be.

ETA: I'll note that abusing USB-A/B/mini/micro/etc.-B for 5V to provide more power than the spec was relatively OK, as A) 5V is 5V, B) Most decent ports (computers in particular) will shut down if too much is demanded of them, and C) having "too much" amperage available isn't a big deal. Hence, despite some quirks and annoyances, it worked and, aside from a few inferior products, we didn't hear about magic smoke escaping. USB-PD involves devices asking for higher voltages that would destroy other devices that must be able to be safely plugged into the port.

I was amazed to learn that USB C features 24 pins. Cables used for charging devices often use 4 conductors each for pos and neg.

 

[Rednecktek]

I was amazed to learn that USB C features 24 pins. Cables used for charging devices often use 4 conductors each for pos and neg.

Before you get too excited about that idea, realize how small the wires are to get 24 pins in that little tiny head and try to imagine how to work with those. Not a lot of amperage on each set to work with either.