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Best way to add 6000xp to house?

KillerWatt

New Member
Joined
Jan 7, 2025
Messages
9
Location
TN
I have attached a photo of my breaker box as I am looking for ideas to add the 6000xp when my batteries arrive. This is US 200amp 240v split-phase.

It seems the best way with the small system (PV 3500w, 6000xp and 2x15kwh battery backup (100amp each w/30kwh) total) is to simply disconnect the 120v circuits from the recessed breaker box then run those circuits and breakers into a main lug load center (square D) which is connected with 8 or 6ga to the 6000xp. Thinking of buying a replacement door for the existing-to grid breaker box and modifying to accommodate the wires going to the main lug load center that I anticipate adding. Splicing would be with push connectors so not to damage/shorten wires.

I don't want to put the larger 240v dryer, stove (maybe), water heater and HVAC onto this smaller PV system as I anticipate adding another 6000xp in the future when affordable and I can get a better idea on matching family needs. I can't figure how to connect the AC output from 6000xp through the main breaker box that could potentially be running HVAC/Water heater/oven simultaneously; it seems too much for such a small PV addition like I have planned. Found a number of great ideas, but mostly where the breaker box is not recessed into the wall. I imagine putting everything back to original if/when this house is sold, which is why I want to cut up a replacement door and not the original door to my breaker box and splice in with push connectors.

I have a couple of other ideas to reduce my 240v use through a smaller 120v dryer and a hot plate.

Ugh...I dream of the day that I can call the power company to come and get their meter off my house and take the wire with them! :)

Thanks for help/suggestions.
 

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You'll have to create a critical loads panel where you can move the circuits you want backed up. You can then have a grid feed from your pain panel run into your AC in so your inverter can bypass the batteries when they get too low and supply power to your loads from the grid. Your large 240v loads can remain in your main panel.
 
Agreed with Adam from above.

Critical loads panel is the only way a single 6000xp is going to have enough grunt for the home. I have done something similar with only 1 240v load on the critical panel (well pump). Otherwise lower current (lights, fans, TV, 2 fridges, microwave, internet etc) work fantastic on the 6000xp. I run 15kWh of storage and have the inverter set to return to grid around 25% to allow the batts free use of the 3.2kw array for charging. This seems to be the best of all worlds, grid tie for loads with solar charging the batteries. Once i reach 85% charge I switch back to all critical loads from Solar/Batts. My overnight loads are low around 400w so I usually wake up to around 50% SOC.

I would determine what loads you must have and then look at the loads you would like to have to make your determination. I run through a manual transfer switch to switch the critical panel back to the grid when needed for maintenance. Make sure if you plan to grid charge that you have a large circuit (50amps) available for the 6000xp. This ensures your critical loads will have what they need and the charger wont overwhelm the circuit as the 6000 charges in grid-bypass.
 
Another option would be to use a manual transfer switch in lieu of a critical loads panel. $379 on Amazon right now. I used a junction box to run the wires into the bottom of the panel via a hole in the sheetrock and the box. I've got mine setup to power my subpanel, pool pump, AC/heat pump (with soft start), AC blower, and a couple of 120 volt circuits. I don't have an electric dryer and I don't have the oven connected along with some of the high draw appliances in the kitchen that could create some leg imbalances and cause shut down or bypass of the inverter. One benefit of this approach is you can change the wiring of the various circuits if you change your mind later (which is what I've done once). The down side might be if you want to add another inverter later. My approach is not to become completely independent of the grid but to lower my electric costs and provide a backup power source when the grid is down.
 

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Agree with adding critical loads panel. I have mine setup with an interlock to feed it from grid or inverter, never both at same time.
IMG_4592.jpeg
 
I'm connected through a reliance controls protrans transfer switch depending on the time of the year want different loads being handled by the inverter. The internal transfer switch on the 6000xp once you overload the ESP even on one leg transfers entire load over to grid input. Last summer I tried shaving peak loads from 4pm to 7pm daily with only 280AH battery. Sometimes I would make it to 7pm sometimes not running a 4ton heat pump off it with 5500 watts of power going to the HVAC wasn't much left over. I really didn't save any money in the end because I have a demand charge only takes 15min of stove use, and HVAC running result in $50-80 extra charge in a month wipes out peak shaving.

I was thinking of buying 2 more transfer switches, but I'm not sure it's worth the cost I'm better off just applying loads that run 24/7. The only advantage at this point using the transfer switches if I'm not home something goes wrong with the inverter my wife can just flip all the switches on the transfer switch move everything to grid power.

https://diysolarforum.com/threads/eg4-6000xp-off-grid-garage-system.89710/#post-1299468
 
Did I see that it's OK to leave the neutral and ground/earth connected at the main panel (grid tie breaker box) and just run a couple large neutrals and grounds (2-3 each) to the critical load panel? In essence, just run the live wire over to the critical load center for the circuits I plan to put on solar in the critical load panel?

Thanks for the links and ideas. A critical load panel is exactly what I had envisioned.

 
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I 'moved' my circuits into my critical loads panel by moving both the hots and neutrals which is required for both GFCI and AFCI or else you will have some issues. I did this at my house, previous post with 6000xp is at my cabin. This sub panel now has an interlock on it so it get be fed by the SER cable between panels OR the inverter/generator that comes down the conduit into it.
IMG_5888.jpeg
 
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Did I see that it's OK to leave the neutral and ground/earth connected at the main panel (grid tie breaker box) and just run a couple large neutrals and grounds (2-3 each) to the critical load panel? In essence, just run the live wire over to the critical load center for the circuits I plan to put on solar in the critical load panel?

Thanks for the links and ideas. A critical load panel is exactly what I had envisioned.

Yes correct. The only bond of ground neutral happens in the main panel. I ran larger 6 ga wires to my critical load panel for the ground/neutral busses.

My circuits I moved are pigtailed in the main panel to meet new breakers in the critical panel. Each circuit using its respective wire size and breaker rating.

In my setup the 6000xp feeds one side of the transfer switch breaker at 30amps double pole and the grid feeds the other side of the transfer switch also protected at 30 amps. Two no 8 wires do the L1/L2 hots and some left over 6 did the neutral and ground. I run two GFCI breakers in the critical panel with no issues.

Its amazing to discover energy independence and like most here once you catch the bug its only gonna get worse.

Because the majority of my "needed" circuits are on throughout the day and now powered by solar my power bill has dropped significantly.
Only incidental use higher loads are grid fed 100%, (AC, dryer, range, on demand water heater).

Good luck and post pics of your progress.
 
Thanks again for the input. I found a 200amp Square D load center today with breakers for only $25 and got the EG4 6000xp ordered. Cannot wait to remove circuits from the grid. Sure wish the power company would have made this easier with grid tie, but....
 

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My circuits I moved are pigtailed in the main panel to meet new breakers in the critical panel. Each circuit using its respective wire size and breaker rating
In my setup the 6000xp feeds one side of the transfer switch breaker at 30amps double pole and the grid feeds the other side of the transfer switch also protected at 30 amps. Two no 8 wires do the L1/L2 hots and some left over 6 did the neutral and ground. I run two GFCI breakers in the critical panel with no issues.
This sounds interesting. Tx switch would be nice to add.
 
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For the AC in and AC out the manual (EG4 6000xp) indicates 8 awg. Solid or stranded? 8 awg solid doesn't seem to be a thing whereas stranded is abundant on the shelves and stranded exceeds the current requirements, so stranded? Kinda wanted to use solid so I don't have to mess with ferrules and solid has a higher current rating.

What are you guys using?
 
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While it may exist, I've never seen solid 8 AWG and would not wish to work with it. I used stranded and all has been well.
 
You'll have to create a critical loads panel where you can move the circuits you want backed up. You can then have a grid feed from your pain panel run into your AC in so your inverter can bypass the batteries when they get too low and supply power to your loads from the grid. Your large 240v loads can remain in your main panel.
This is exactly what I am in the process of doing.
Grid feeds 6000XP which feeds subpanel. When grid goes out, panel kicks to battery backup lickety-split.
 

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