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Best way to join 10ga stranded

Steve777

Solar Enthusiast
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Oct 23, 2020
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Wondering what the best or better options are for joining two 10ga stranded Cu wires. For larger wire sizes my local electrical distributor (and the big box stores) have a variety of alloy blocks with set screws to hold the wires, in several configurations (butt or 90), with "plastic" insulating covers. All UL approved. But they don't seem to carry anything that goes down to 10ga size.

Guess I could just use wire nuts, but it seems that a connector with set screws to hold the wires would make a better connection. Anyone know of something like this and where to get it and/or what they are called.

TIA
 
Wire nuts inside of an enclosure are UL listed for 10 AWG, nothing wrong with that at all.

If you have a whole bunch of them to do and you want to make them look neat on DIN rail, you can use Dinkle Blocks.

But not for just two wires.
 
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There are lots of YouTube tests, the first one I just googled up was “which connector is better-wago or wire nut.”
We also tested (kind of sloppily) at work several years ago .

I don’t want to slam wago connectors, since they are so easy and convenient, but there’s an unwarranted perception that they make a better connection.

They are certainly the way to go if you’re swapping connections or plan to move stuff in the future. And much easier on the fingers.
 
You know you can solder too....
That's the original way to splice wires in a residential box,m even industrial wiring was soldered at one time.

Back in the day before wire nuts ( often called " super nuts " generic name, or " Marrettes " in Canada ) connections were dipped in solder and taped with friction tape.
Ontario code still allows this method.

Marretts do provide an excellent connection, there is probably no reason to use anything else unless the wire is aluminum.
In Canada there are approved wire nuts for aluminum ( and these are real branded Marrettes )

I don't know if there were ever sold in the USA but there is a very early version of the Marrette that we still used for decades after the screw type.
Its a threaded compression version with a screw on plastic cap.
I don't think they are made anymore but I have used them....

I'm wrong they still sell them.
( only excepts a Robertson #2 socket head screwdriver lol )

A Blue Canadian Marrette will join two #8 and the hydro inspector would except it. ( and I think a pair of #6 now my memory is getting fuzzy )
It requires considerable twisting force and you need to rat tail and trim a connection before screwing it on
I used to tighten it with pliers, and tape the skirt for 600 volt motor connections,
I still prefer that to Polaris connectors the twisting action makes them very tight and reliable.
Might still be code compliant, I don't know.
Hydro inspector has not flagged me for using them and I still see new boxes show up at work.
 
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You know you can solder too....
That's the original way to splice wires in a residential box,m even industrial wiring was soldered at one time.

Back in the day before wire nuts ( often called " super nuts " generic name, or " Marrettes " in Canada ) connections were dipped in solder and taped with friction tape.
Ontario code still allows this method.

Marretts do provide an excellent connection, there is probably no reason to use anything else unless the wire is aluminum.
In Canada there are approved wire nuts for aluminum ( and these are real branded Marrettes )

I don't know if there were ever sold in the USA but there is a very early version of the Marrette that we still used for decades after the screw type.
Its a threaded compression version with a screw on plastic cap.
I don't think they are made anymore but I have used them....

I'm wrong they still sell them.
( only excepts a Robertson #2 socket head screwdriver lol )

A Blue Canadian Marrette will join two #8 and the hydro inspector would except it. ( and I think a pair of #6 now my memory is getting fuzzy )
It requires considerable twisting force and you need to rat tail and trim a connection before screwing it on
I used to tighten it with pliers, and tape the skirt for 600 volt motor connections,
I still prefer that to Polaris connectors the twisting action makes them very tight and reliable.
Might still be code compliant, I don't know.
Hydro inspector has not flagged me for using them and I still see new boxes show up at work.
Same, here in the states.
I was actually trained in solder and tape. But wire nuts had already taken over, by the time I got to the field.
And it still exists in some of the old houses around here.
 
Alumiconns will work but be advised the cheap plastic housing is only rated for 300v so I had to cover with 600v 3M heat shrink. If I did it again I'd just use wire nuts but I was working in a somewhat limited box so I used these which did make for smaller connections. (SPDs)
1734528977068.png
 
I don’t think there’s any practical difference between any of the connectors mentioned if they are all done correctly.
From a mechanical and electrical standpoint a soldered connection is always going to be superior.
But its a hassle to do.
Under most conditions a compression connections is your next best choice.
Its almost like a cold weld, cut one apart and you will see the copper wires stick together from the extreme pressure.
When you look at the connections inside electric motors these are always soldered, its a silver alloy but its still solder and the point is superior mechanical connection.

Tim and I discussed the old way of house wiring or running taps done in the nob and tube days...
The most common method then was to heat a solder pot and walk around the room and dip your connections....
I never did this but I have had to deal with this type of wiring...

Before the invention of Teck cable ( armoured water proof ) wiring in the mines was often open and done in the knob and tube style
I remember on 500 level at Stobie mine three phases were hung under the steel ground support and these ran the length of the main drift support by insulators.
The wire itself was rubber insulated tinned copper.
Where you needed power the trick was to do what was called a western union splice and weave the conduction together and pour hot solder over the joint to wick into the connection.

Where you needed a tap to wrapped the copper around the main the trunk and pour solder again.
something like this but on a larger scale.
1734530714753.jpeg


1734530775475.jpeg

The wiring was no energized and just hanging there but there were places where tech had been tapped off the main lines and fed into disconnect switches to feed minor loads, this was on 25 cycle lines so my assumption is these had been in service from 1914 to sometime before 1990 at the latest.
All perfectly serviceable however, just redundant..
There are all kinds of ways to join wires today that do not require this kind of screwing around.

More pictures of taps and splices...

here;s a fire pot.
Used gasoline or kerosene to melt the solder in that pot.
Now if you ever wondered why the code has rules about how long wires in pull boxes should be the main reason is this...
The electrician had to walk around not spilling hot solder and dip his rat tails ( pig tail what ever your vernacular may be ).
To this day we still need pig tail long enough reach out for connection.....
In fact the guy that invented the wire nut was burned doing this job!
1734533034403.jpeg

if it was a big splice you would weave the wires together, put damp cloth on the insulation and then ladle hot solder over the joint.
Again trying not to burn yourself...

Or you have a big iron for smaller jobs.
This is an iron I saved when the mine closed
It’s made from a handle for a switch
70543498596__6EE29EDF-91DA-4298-B249-EE8C1E8C39B6.jpeg
 
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I did some lineman splices last week to extend wires for puck lights in our kitchen. I didn't think anyone did those any more.
 
I did some lineman splices last week to extend wires for puck lights in our kitchen. I didn't think anyone did those any more.
Recently i was asked at work to join a 10 to 6 portable power cable

I wanted to do a solder splice in a pipe because this was something that was going to be underwater.


The other electricians are going to read this and roll their eyes at the suggestion of a pipe splice
But I saw no alternative to this stupid request.

The splice was actually done in a box with Polaris connectors and potted with 3M epoxy
But I think it was a shit job
Left to my own devices I would have crimped or soldered and put it in a pipe and potted wit with re enterable compound.

But I did not get my way
Do when it fails I’ll tell them I told you so….
Go down there and maybe get the chance to do a splice like it’s 1924 and not 2024…
Could happen lol

Yuck
This looks like shit
I don’t think it’s going to be water tight when the flooding happens but what do I know
I’m just a stupid old guy
what a fucking mess
file:///var/mobile/Library/SMS/Attachments/e0/00/D43C443E-5049-4448-A78D-3151E564E6F1/IMG_7467.HEIC

Ok can’t copy and paste a photo from a text
I’ll try this again later
 
I used dinkle connectors to covert from 10ga THHN to 10ga PV. I have them in a sealed box that has conduit running down to my PV combiner. They've worked great for the last 6 months.

Dinkle Connectors on Amazon
 
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twist those wires then Scotch Lock them AKA Wire Nuts
The Greeks as the joke goes claim they invented everything....

The best wire mechanical connection for small gauge was invented by William P Marr.
I just wish the rest of the would with give the man his due and call it by its real name Marrette...
Though he was a scott they are not scotch locks lol
 
Wire nuts. Billions and billions of them are in use and the earth hasn't burst into flames, yet.

These outdoor versions are prefilled with dielectric silicone. I use them inside outdoor boxes and always orient the wire nut vertical to allow any moisture to drip off the cap and NOT inside the wire nut.

View attachment 263858
Its called a Marrette!
After the inventor.
1734535580875.jpeg
1734535678130.jpeg
 

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