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diy solar

Best way to join 10ga stranded

Wire nuts. Billions and billions of them are in use and the earth hasn't burst into flames, yet.

These outdoor versions are prefilled with dielectric silicone. I use them inside outdoor boxes and always orient the wire nut vertical to allow any moisture to drip off the cap and NOT inside the wire nut.

View attachment 263858
I probably should have used those sealant filled wire nuts in my roof mounted J boxes. At least I oriented all of the tails up and into the high side of the box.
RoofJBox.JPG
 
Some of the suggestions here are funny. Either grab some good-old wire nuts or some Wago 221-612's and call it a day. It's not that complicated.
 
A wire nut is only half the equation in joining wires with a wire nut. You really need to get a tight twist with linesman pliers then protect with a box.
Technically you're not supposed to (have to) do that, if you use the wire nut properly. I never pre-twist them together, and if I ever take a wire nut back off, the wires are always tightly twisted together as they should be. I can't tell you how many wire nuts I've used over the years (done my own wiring, worked for a contractor, etc).

Part of the reason why I prefer the wing nuts vs the round style wire nuts is because you can get some actual leverage without killing your fingers. And they're not as bulky.

Yes.

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No, just no. (Well, the little orange and blue ones are OK for small stuff.)

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Wondering what the best or better options are for joining two 10ga stranded Cu wires. For larger wire sizes my local electrical distributor (and the big box stores) have a variety of alloy blocks with set screws to hold the wires, in several configurations (butt or 90), with "plastic" insulating covers. All UL approved. But they don't seem to carry anything that goes down to 10ga size.

Guess I could just use wire nuts, but it seems that a connector with set screws to hold the wires would make a better connection. Anyone know of something like this and where to get it and/or what they are called.

TIA
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0D2N46FK1?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title

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Technically you're not supposed to (have to) do that, if you use the wire nut properly. I never pre-twist them together, and if I ever take a wire nut back off, the wires are always tightly twisted together as they should be. I can't tell you how many wire nuts I've used over the years (done my own wiring, worked for a contractor, etc).

Part of the reason why I prefer the wing nuts vs the round style wire nuts is because you can get some actual leverage without killing your fingers. And they're not as bulky.

Yes.

View attachment 263867

No, just no. (Well, the little orange and blue ones are OK for small stuff.)

View attachment 263866

Some brands of wire nuts have a hex-shaped plastic cap. You can get a socket-wrench socket handle on them for extra torque.
 
Next you will all be telling me what in. lbs to torch them to, and an adapter for your torch screwdriver to use.
You would be surprised to learn there are torque specifications for a lot of this stuff from the manufacturers
 
That depends on which wire nuts you buy.
Ideal Wingnuts don't require pre-twisting.
Slippery slope...
When I was in school they told us to do it anyways,
On the job inspectors would ask you if your put a rat tail on that before the Marrette...

Its an extra step and it certainly does not hurt
 
Slippery slope...
When I was in school they told us to do it anyways,
On the job inspectors would ask you if your put a rat tail on that before the Marrette...

Its an extra step and it certainly does not hurt
Yup, I was taught the same. And stubbornly followed it for many years.
But finally came around, after proving to myself that it produces the same quality of connection, when done correctly.
 
Slippery slope...
When I was in school they told us to do it anyways,
On the job inspectors would ask you if your put a rat tail on that before the Marrette...

Its an extra step and it certainly does not hurt
and it says right on the Ideal package that pretwisting is acceptable but not required ... so I don't, especially on stranded wire. To pretwist takes extra steps as you need to strip longer ends, then twist, then trim to correct length, then add the nut.
 
I used dinkle connectors to covert from 10ga THHN to 10ga PV. I have them in a sealed box that has conduit running down to my PV combiner. They've worked great for the last 6 months.

Fixed the link for you. Can someone who has used the 'Dinkle' connectors comment on the jumpers? Are they just press-fit? Are they removable? Looks like a good system, but there are no instructions or details on their website, and I'm not anxious to spend $30 on a set of them only to discover <something>
 
Fixed the link for you. Can someone who has used the 'Dinkle' connectors comment on the jumpers? Are they just press-fit? Are they removable? Looks like a good system, but there are no instructions or details on their website, and I'm not anxious to spend $30 on a set of them only to discover <something>
The jumpers come in x2, x3, x4, etc. if you need to bridge multiple blocks together.
There are different size blocks (with different current capacities), be careful to get jumpers sized for the right block.
The jumpers are pushed in with some serious force, they are a little springy, the slots they go into are fixed.
They can be removed with needle nose or prying up with a screwdriver.
There are two rows of slots, so you can chain a bunch together with the 2-pin jumpers.

I’ve already spent my $30 initiation fee and got the wrong thing.

Here is a kit I got that worked out for a solar combiner box:
IMG_7193.jpeg
 
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Mine came with the jumpers but I didn't use them. I played with them a little and as ricardocello said, they just press in. In my use case, I just needed to 1 for 1 a cable.

I took a before but no after:
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