Brand new build - some questions

[drewniverse]

Hi guys, I have a 98 GMC Savana w/ Bubbletop. I took the plunge and purchased a ZOOMS 100AH, 160 watt CIGS flexpanel, MPP solar 1012LV-MS charge controller/inverter, 5 feet 6gauge red/black cables for battery to controller, 10 Gauge 10 Feet Cable Connect Solar Panel to Charge Controller, cable entry gland, , extension cable for 120v input/output.

Pretty sure I covered all the bases here. I'm wide open to suggestions.

I got the battery so far. I think I should have the panel by tomorrow.

Should I use inline ANL fuses in this setup?

I would like to add a 20amp Renogy Dc to DC charger with on/off switch so I can charge my house battery while driving after topping off the starter. How can I implement that into my new system without damaging it?

Thanks.

 

[rmaddy]

6AWG wire is too small for a 1000W inverter on a 12V system. You need something that can safely handle 100A. You want at least 4AWG. 2AWG would be even better.

Adding an ANL fuse at the battery would be good. 125A would be the right size once you have the proper wire.

 

[drewniverse]

6AWG wire is too small

Yes good catch. I will pick some up some 2AWG at the parts store and add a fuse.

 

[drewniverse]

6AWG wire is too small for a 1000W inverter on a 12V system. You need something that can safely handle 100A. You want at least 4AWG. 2AWG would be even better.

Adding an ANL fuse at the battery would be good. 125A would be the right size once you have the proper wire.

I ordered 2gauge battery cables and I ordered this with a 150amp fuse https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07LC5YCQ1/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s01?ie=UTF8&th=1

---

>>>hope that was a big enough fuse?<<< I cancelled and am going to get the one with the 200 amp fuse.

 

[Rednecktek]

>>>hope that was a big enough fuse?<<< I cancelled and am going to get the one with the 200 amp fuse

You don't want to oversize your fuse too much, 25% above max draw is good for protecting the wires. If you go too high then it'll let your wires melt before it trips to protect them.

 

[rmaddy]

I ordered 2gauge battery cables and I ordered this with a 150amp fuse https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07LC5YCQ1/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s01?ie=UTF8&th=1

---

>>>hope that was a big enough fuse?<<< I cancelled and am going to get the one with the 200 amp fuse.

As I stated, you want a 125A fuse. 200A is too big though if you have high quality marine grade stranded 105ºC rated 2AWG wire then it can be fused at 200A but there's no reason to go that big. You have a 100A load. A 125A fuse is plenty.

 

[John Frum]

As I stated, you want a 125A fuse. 200A is too big though if you have high quality marine grade stranded 105ºC rated 2AWG wire then it can be fused at 200A but there's no reason to go that big. You have a 100A load. A 125A fuse is plenty.

I fuse close to the limit of the wire because higher capacity fuses of the same type typically have lower resistance.

 

[rmaddy]

I fuse close to the limit of the wire because higher capacity fuses of the same type typically have lower resistance.

How much difference is this in the real world? For example, if I'm building a 12V system and I use 2AWG wire and I could use a 125A fuse but the wire can handle 200A. Let's say the battery is currently at 13.5V. What voltage difference would there actually be when using 125A vs 200A? Are we talking 100s of mV or single digit mV?

 

[John Frum]

How much difference is this in the real world? For example, if I'm building a 12V system and I use 2AWG wire and I could use a 125A fuse but the wire can handle 200A. Let's say the battery is currently at 13.5V. What voltage difference would there actually be when using 125A vs 200A? Are we talking 100s of mV or single digit mV?

71 vs 92 milli volts for this series.
The other reason I fuse to the wire is the circuit can be re-purposed without having to potentially buy another fuse.

https://www.littelfuse.com/~/media/automotive/datasheets/fuses/passenger-car-and-commercial-vehicle/advanced-power-system-fuses/littelfuse_zcase_single_mega_starter_datasheet.pdf

 

[rmaddy]

Ignoring the wire resistance since it's the same for both fuse sizes, we could be talking about 13.429V vs 13.408V. That's 0.021V or a 0.16% difference. Seems to me that the crimp quality of the lugs or the torque on the studs could have a bigger impact.

Sorry for the thread hijack. This should be its own thread. It's an interesting discussion.

 

[drewniverse]

Sorry for the thread hijack. This should be its own thread. It's an interesting discussion.

Yes this is a great discussion lol.

I talked to a few other people about it. They said the fuse is to protect the wire only. One of the guys I spoke to was at Bay Marine Supply in San Diego, he said 200a is good for 2 awg wire. I was purchasing their "Bay Marine Supply MRBF Terminal Fuse Block Kit 5/16" (M8)." It just so happens my office was 2 blocks from their warehouse so I bought it online and picked it up willcall; BUT now I have a new problem!

My new 100ah battery is a m6 with 1/4 studs. Apparently I need the m8's with 5/16 inch studs. I've read there are adapters. Anybody have any suggestions on this as far as a quality adapter to use?

 

[John Frum]

One of the guys I spoke to was at Bay Marine Supply in San Diego, he said 200a is good for 2 awg wire.

For pure copper with insulation rated for 105C in open air its 210 amps.
The nearest size fuse is 200 amps.
But you need fuse headroom so the math is like this.
200 amps * .8 fuse headroom = 160 service amps.

 

[rmaddy]

My new 100ah battery is a m6 with 1/4 studs. Apparently I need the m8's with 5/16 inch studs.

You could use a short piece of 2AWG wire with a 5/16" lug on one end and a 1/4" lug on the other. Or if you have a piece of 1/4" copper bar you could cut a 1" length and drill a 5/16" hole on one end and a 1/4" hole on the other.

 

[drewniverse]

Here is my diagram if anyone would like to see it/critique it.

 

[rmaddy]

What is your total solar panel arrangement? What are the full specs for the panels? Depending on those answers, your chosen PV breaker may or may nor be appropriate.

What is the max input voltage of your AIO? What is the max charge current of your AIO?

 

[John Frum]

The all_in_one circuit is not fused.
If its 2 awg that is technically ok.

 

[drewniverse]

What is your total solar panel arrangement? What are the full specs for the panels? Depending on those answers, your chosen PV breaker may or may nor be appropriate.

What is the max input voltage of your AIO? What is the max charge current of your AIO?

At the moment I can only afford one CIGS panel as they are ~$500/piece@160watts. Panel is 23.4Voc. The idea is to buy another panel and put into series when I can afford the extra bread in a few months kicking up the open circuit voltage.
AIO is 20amp utility and 40amp mppt input.

• Maximum Power(Pmax): 160W
• Maximum Power Voltage(Vmp): 18.9V
• Maximum Power Current(Imp): 8.40A
• Open Circuit Voltage(Voc): 23.4V
• Short Circuit Current(Isc): 9.60A
• Maximum System Voltage(Vmax): 1000VDC

 

[rmaddy]

$500 for 160W? That's insane. I paid $200 for a 330W panel. You should really consider one of the many much cheaper options. You shouldn't pay more than about $0.70/watt. Find local options and save on shipping costs.

Since you didn't post the requested specs for the AIO I just looked them up. The max input voltage is 102V and the charge current is 40A. This means you can have about 500W of solar so you are good with two 160W panels. And the max Voc of 102V means you can easily put two panels in series.

So while your choice of solar panels (1 or 2) will work fine with the AIO, do yourself a favor and find cheaper panels. $3.13/watt is ridiculous compared to what you can pay. Though I suppose flexible panels are more expensive than rigid panels. But they also don't last very long which makes them that much more expensive. Do you really need flexible panels?

 

[drewniverse]

$500 for 160W? That's insane. I paid $200 for a 330W panel. You should really consider one of the many much cheaper options. You shouldn't pay more than about $0.70/watt. Find local options and save on shipping costs.

Since you didn't post the requested specs for the AIO I just looked them up. The max input voltage is 102V and the charge current is 40A. This means you can have about 500W of solar so you are good with two 160W panels. And the max Voc of 102V means you can easily put two panels in series.

So while your choice of solar panels (1 or 2) will work fine with the AIO, do yourself a favor and find cheaper panels. $3.13/watt is ridiculous compared to what you can pay. Though I suppose flexible panels are more expensive than rigid panels. But they also don't last very long which makes them that much more expensive. Do you really need flexible panels?

I chose the CIGS flexible specifically for dimensions. They are thin and will mold to the curves of my bubble top. I chose this as I am still under height for most drive thrus and trees aren't as much of a factor.
I can still work on top of my van. The CIGS are very sturdy, you can literally walk on them.
Also I don't want a roof rack.
This is one of those things where I had to weigh between cost vs function. The warranty is also very good so there's that.

I pasted the wrong specs for the AIO... I'm on my phone, my bad.

Thank you for the response.