diy solar

diy solar

Broke my system out by DC, solar, AC and monitoring

corn18

Village Idiot
Joined
Sep 9, 2021
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My system diagram has gotten cluttered so I decided to separate the diagram by function. I attached a .pdf but it looks really cool when I do presentation mode in powerpoint. Clicking to the next slide adds a system. Thought I would share the .pdf. Can share a powerpoint version if anyone wants it.
 

Attachments

  • DC wiring 290RL rev 1 pdf.pdf
    15.7 MB · Views: 37
A few comments based off my fifth wheel build and you can take some all or none, as long as you're happy with your build.

-For 2 X 206 ah battery, 18 amp charger may not provide a lot of power. This is fine if you don't mind idling your truck a couple hours because it was a cloudy day the day before and you hope to really charge your battery the next day when its sunny. Some of Victron's products can be put in parallel, so perhaps one DC to DC chargers can be added later.

-Based off what I've seen in Sunny Arizona from November - May, a single 50 amp charger is more than adequate to handle 800 watts of panels.
--Also from the slide good idea to put the pre-charge resistor in the switch on the initial build. I'm putting it in after, and adding the resistor will be tight.

-Looks like you're going through the sewer vent for wiring. That would work. I put an PVC conduit next to the wall in the master bedroom by the passenger side window so I could go a short route to the battery, and also was able to put a different array up and route the wiring easily through this conduit. Depending on the roof, its not hard to drill through and put a project box up. For me, the hard thing was learning how to drill through the roof, but the process was easy.

-I have a Victron battery monitor, which it looks like you could use that. I also have 3 X Victron SCCs and added a Victron 24 volt to 12 volt 70 amp DC converter when I upgraded from 12 volt battery to 24 volt battery. I don't have the lynx, multiplus, or cerbo.
 
A few comments based off my fifth wheel build and you can take some all or none, as long as you're happy with your build.

-For 2 X 206 ah battery, 18 amp charger may not provide a lot of power. This is fine if you don't mind idling your truck a couple hours because it was a cloudy day the day before and you hope to really charge your battery the next day when its sunny. Some of Victron's products can be put in parallel, so perhaps one DC to DC chargers can be added later.
The 18A DC to DC smart charger is sized to the existing 10ga charge wire in the truck. Before I added the DC to DC charger, I would get a whopping 4A @ 14V from the charge line. That was fine for my FLA bank, but not very useful for my LFPs. I don't really need the charge from the truck, but I might as well make it as useful as possible when it is there. I would have to rewire the truck to get more amps and that isn't necessary for my use case.
-Based off what I've seen in Sunny Arizona from November - May, a single 50 amp charger is more than adequate to handle 800 watts of panels.
--Also from the slide good idea to put the pre-charge resistor in the switch on the initial build. I'm putting it in after, and adding the resistor will be tight.
I was at the camper the other day and it was cranking out 70A charge from the 1200W of panels.
-Looks like you're going through the sewer vent for wiring. That would work. I put an PVC conduit next to the wall in the master bedroom by the passenger side window so I could go a short route to the battery, and also was able to put a different array up and route the wiring easily through this conduit. Depending on the roof, its not hard to drill through and put a project box up. For me, the hard thing was learning how to drill through the roof, but the process was easy.

-I have a Victron battery monitor, which it looks like you could use that. I also have 3 X Victron SCCs and added a Victron 24 volt to 12 volt 70 amp DC converter when I upgraded from 12 volt battery to 24 volt battery. I don't have the lynx, multiplus, or cerbo.
I have a Victron smart shunt on the negative input to the Victron Distributor. It's bolted directly to the Distributor input post. I did the same with the class T fuse on the input. Two less cables.
 
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