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Build a Battery … Where to start?

Zwy said:
The purpose of the 17 inch wide plates was for the center rods. I give the dimensions here in the video, not sure if you saw the thread on my build. I use 5/16" rods just like the compression video.

Click to expand...
Hmmm.. This is the space I have to work with .. It is the front bay of the RV :

Bay Opening
30” Wide
16” Deep
14” Tall

The 16" deep is the problem .. Not sure I have that extra inch to put center rods.. I could place a angle iron strap across the top and bottom rods to ensure they can't bow, but I curious if it will even need it.. You had center rods even with aluminum ends, I guess with 3/4 wood ends it would be best. (Or did you just over engineer them?)
 
MattMan119 said:
Hmmm.. This is the space I have to work with .. It is the front bay of the RV :

Bay Opening
30” Wide
Click to expand...

That is fine.
MattMan119 said:
16” Deep
Click to expand...

Slight problem

MattMan119 said:
14” Tall
Click to expand...

Could have used a fixture like the one in my camper with a floor. Yes, I did add nuts on the inside of the plates and the pvc sleeves. From this post about foam.

1734710835818.png


If you already bought the material and it is 8 inches tall then we work with what we have.

MattMan119 said:
The 16" deep is the problem .. Not sure I have that extra inch to put center rods.. I could place a angle iron strap across the top and bottom rods to ensure they can't bow, but I curious if it will even need it.. You had center rods even with aluminum ends, I guess with 3/4 wood ends it would be best. (Or did you just over engineer them?)
Click to expand...

I quick grabbed some photos. Fixture in cabinet assembled.

Shop compression fixture.jpg

Shop compression fixture 2.jpg

Looking at the second photo, you can gain about 1/4" on each side by crowding it in. That gives you 1/2" total. One the outside you could gain close to 1/4" per side, another 1/2" looking at the first photo. The reason I leave plenty on the sides is I had 16 plates to fabricate and I don't need tolerance to be that close. Otherwise I have to go to my brother's and use his Bridgeport mill to get everything exact.

Before you drill any holes, you need to make a template. I'm assuming the cells on the ship are the only cells you will have. Make two templates the exact size of a cell when the cells arrive. Lay the templates on the plate with the space needed for the conduit sleeve in the middle. Check each side to make certain you are centered on the plate. Or, scribe a line in the center, place each template the radius of the pvc conduit away from the scribed line. The pvc SCH40 conduit I use has a radius of 0.41075". Millimeters works too but I didn't measure it. Then check on the sides to ensure you have enough material to drill a hole.

When dealing in close quarters, every 0.010" counts and stacks up. If you can gain an extra 1/4" here and there, it makes your job easier. Be precise on measurements. take your time and don't hurry. Measure 3 times if needed. You should be able to gain enough as I used 3/8" from the edges of the center and side holes to center the poron sheet. Don't let the cells make contact with the rod, in a camper it will cause a failure. You can use nuts that don't have a flange and that can help ensure no contact with the cells. Use 2 nuts on each end, set those to the exact compression length and lock the 2 nuts together. Cut the conduit to the exact length needed for correct compression and just slide the conduit over the nuts. This will ensure no contact to the cell.

I had plenty of room so I make the plates/rods loose, cuts down on fabrication time and assembly plus I get space between the cells and rods/conduit.
 
Ok there are two very good options in this ..

1) The bay is shaped like this from the side ..
1734715586652.png
I will be there in a few hours and can measure how far up I need to go to get to 17"

or

I can do the same as you above.. I can use two layers of plywood with spacer like a second floor in house construction.. This would allow the side to be taller then batteries, and this is really good also cause I can use the top to mount all the extras on, like BMS, bluttooth, breakers, and status screen ..

So one of these options..

1734721151497.png
 

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MattMan119 said:
Ok there are two very good options in this ..
Click to expand...
Option #2. On my camper battery, using the rod above the cells was a pain. I put the rod close to the cells so I had to custom make a busbar with a bend in the middle to clear the rod and pvc conduit. If you look at the plate, the 2 large holes were for the battery cables to come thru and I had to custom fabricate an insulator for the holes to allow the busbar to come thru.

Just add enough blocking on the bottom to get the needed width. I would not make your end plates until the cells arrive and I would make the templates as I described above and make certain you won't have interference with the cells.
 
Zwy said:
Option #2. On my camper battery, using the rod above the cells was a pain. I put the rod close to the cells so I had to custom make a busbar with a bend in the middle to clear the rod and pvc conduit. If you look at the plate, the 2 large holes were for the battery cables to come thru and I had to custom fabricate an insulator for the holes to allow the busbar to come thru.

Just add enough blocking on the bottom to get the needed width. I would not make your end plates until the cells arrive and I would make the templates as I described above and make certain you won't have interference with the cells.
Click to expand...
Yeah, just getting a few plans together, will make everything once I have cells in hand.. It has to be perfectly measured, and I would not trust the battery spec sheet to be right 100% of the time.. They may have changed or something stupid..

I will try with #2 if there is enough room to fit everything after the riser, its the best option, but I may not have a choice if there is not enough of an angle on that outside wall to gain that inch or so .. But, i think it will be more then enough.. I will be their tonight for a few hours and can make sure to get pictures and measurements that is needed to be sure. (or as sure as one can be)
 
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MattMan119 said:
Ok there are two very good options in this ..

1) The bay is shaped like this from the side ..
View attachment 264384
I will be there in a few hours and can measure how far up I need to go to get to 17"

or

I can do the same as you above.. I can use two layers of plywood with spacer like a second floor in house construction.. This would allow the side to be taller then batteries, and this is really good also cause I can use the top to mount all the extras on, like BMS, bluttooth, breakers, and status screen ..

So one of these options..

View attachment 264401
Click to expand...
From your diagrams it looks like you are compressing on the small face of the cells?
 
Looks like I have to change it up a little, the height does not allow me to boost it up enough to fit the middle compression bars, so I will add angle iron support rails to the end caps to ensure that they do not bow over time. I have little extra width but not the height ..

See the design idea below: forgive the lack of scale, on the side view I want to show the angle cut fix the bay box angle, but PowerPoint did not want to allow me to draw it, so this is close enough to get the idea across.

1734881683745.png
 
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Mine haven't shipped yet. I ordered another box and it had to be custom built. Amy did send a photo of the pallet with cells on it. Good thing I have a forklift.
 
Zwy said:
Mine haven't shipped yet. I ordered another box and it had to be custom built. Amy did send a photo of the pallet with cells on it. Good thing I have a forklift.
Click to expand...
Going to build battery for your new cabinet? Going to end up full before you know it..

Got the extra BMS in yesterday, and I'm now thinking.... hmm what can i use it for.. if i order..
 
MattMan119 said:
Going to build battery for your new cabinet? Going to end up full before you know it..
Click to expand...

Extra battery box is for the golf cart. I decided to use the extra box I have now which can be seen in the videos now and then in my work trailer. I can roll that box out come winter as I don't have too many air conditioners to fix that aren't in the shop.

Cabinet 114 Kwh plus the 14 Kwh Luyuan box. Biggest problem will be getting it recharged.

MattMan119 said:
Got the extra BMS in yesterday, and I'm now thinking.... hmm what can i use it for.. if i order..
Click to expand...
It never ends but in my case I have 2 more mounts to use up. I have 7 panels sitting in one shed, those will be mounted on the south wall of my large shed out back. Good thing I ran an extra conduit thru the cement at the array. I learned to add an extra after putting up the first array. Best part is I can add more panels after the 7 as the building is 60 feet wide.

 
Zwy said:
Extra battery box is for the golf cart. I decided to use the extra box I have now which can be seen in the videos now and then in my work trailer. I can roll that box out come winter as I don't have too many air conditioners to fix that aren't in the shop.

Cabinet 114 Kwh plus the 14 Kwh Luyuan box. Biggest problem will be getting it recharged.


It never ends but in my case I have 2 more mounts to use up. I have 7 panels sitting in one shed, those will be mounted on the south wall of my large shed out back. Good thing I ran an extra conduit thru the cement at the array. I learned to add an extra after putting up the first array. Best part is I can add more panels after the 7 as the building is 60 feet wide.

Click to expand...
@Zny
would you share the link or description of the box on the video please? i am not having luck with finding a UL listed box. thank you
 
Hungfish said:
@Zny
would you share the link or description of the box on the video please? i am not having luck with finding a UL listed box. thank you
Click to expand...
www.vevor.com

VEVOR Steel Electrical Box, 16"x 12"x 10", 304 Stainless Steel Electrical Enclosure Box, Wall-Mounted Outdoor Electrical Electronic Equipment Enclosure with Mounting Plate Hinges Lock, IP66 Waterproof | VEVOR US

VEVOR Electrical Enclosure Box 16"x 12"x 10" made of 304 stainless steel, IP66 waterproof, with superior sealing and smooth hinges for reliable outdoor use.
www.vevor.com www.vevor.com

This is the same brand and the company that sells them .. I get stuff from them all the time, not sure about the UL listed, but figured I would post the link!
 
Hungfish said:
@Zny
would you share the link or description of the box on the video please? i am not having luck with finding a UL listed box. thank you
Click to expand...
This is the box listing on Amazon which is where I purchased it. There is a UL sticker on the side. However, looking at the current ad, the only listings are TUV/sud and CE but does list 508A ( Certification: 508A (CSA C22.2 No. 14-13.), TUV, CE)

Scrolling down the Certificate of Compliance shows models of boxes that are UL certified. My box part number is SPT-UL-606030. This is the sticker on the box. It is possible Vevor is claiming all boxes are compliant but may not be.

Vevor box.jpg
 
Zwy said:
This is the box listing on Amazon which is where I purchased it. There is a UL sticker on the side. However, looking at the current ad, the only listings are TUV/sud and CE but does list 508A ( Certification: 508A (CSA C22.2 No. 14-13.), TUV, CE)

Scrolling down the Certificate of Compliance shows models of boxes that are UL certified. My box part number is SPT-UL-606030. This is the sticker on the box. It is possible Vevor is claiming all boxes are compliant but may not be.

View attachment 265857
Click to expand...
@Zwy and @MattMan119 : thank you
 
Rednecktek said:
I'm a big fan of JBD for their simple reliability. Daly works OK in a pinch, and I'm that weirdo that hates JK with a passion.

My build tools include a cheap lug crimper that goes from 6awg to 2/0 which is all I really ever run into. 6, 8, and 10awg I just use my hand crimper.

I buy the 1/4" red heat shrink ring terminals by the bucket, some heavy duty Pittsburg crimpers and the triangle type strippers, and packing tape (the fiber stuff when I can find it) with some heat shrink or electrical tape in red & black.

My bigger battery builds include a welder. 😉
Click to expand...
Hey, Rednecktek - Sourcing mystifies me - you mentioned JBD, Daly, and JK - Who are those guys and where can I find them? Thanks, in advance
 
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