Rednecktek
Expert Newbie
Don't be too worried about it. I find that if I set the bulk charging voltage to 3.62v/cell (math that out) then you always hit that balancing curve but stiill have a little headroom for runners.
Build a Battery … Where to start?
- Thread starter MattMan119
- Start date
robbob2112
Doing more research, mosty harmless
My plan is to use class T and a MCCB breaker on each or a 4 pole for both and the class T per each.
I have a couple of TOMZN 250amp remote trip breakers that are 4 pole, or I have some 2-pole 250amp mccb I can use. Large - YES, will they break an arc - YES
And with this many of the batteries capable of putting out 200amps each I can test some of the cheaper breakers/fuses to see how they respond and work when just over trip amps or at double the trip amps...
3 x 12.8v with 300amp BMS - the wattcycle 280ah and these two should do the trick - all with JBD 300amp BMS - I am replacing the wattcycle BMS - after Will's video with it not having any overcurrent protection until almost 800amps I don't trust it.
I have a couple of TOMZN 250amp remote trip breakers that are 4 pole, or I have some 2-pole 250amp mccb I can use. Large - YES, will they break an arc - YES
And with this many of the batteries capable of putting out 200amps each I can test some of the cheaper breakers/fuses to see how they respond and work when just over trip amps or at double the trip amps...
3 x 12.8v with 300amp BMS - the wattcycle 280ah and these two should do the trick - all with JBD 300amp BMS - I am replacing the wattcycle BMS - after Will's video with it not having any overcurrent protection until almost 800amps I don't trust it.
robbob2112
Doing more research, mosty harmless
note - I took apart the TOMZN and they are lubricated in the correct spots and the contact point and arc chutes are all good quality. I would trust it to act as a breaker - TOMZN is apparently the chineese company that produces the DiH00lL brand breakers so they look identical except for the label.
I got some much cheaper ones labeled for BAO and Chintz and they lack the lubrication and have thinner contact arms so lower possible amps dispite the same rating... Good switches, but not so sure about the breaker usage.
I got some much cheaper ones labeled for BAO and Chintz and they lack the lubrication and have thinner contact arms so lower possible amps dispite the same rating... Good switches, but not so sure about the breaker usage.
You mean this guy?
robbob2112
Doing more research, mosty harmless
I am of the opinion the wattcycle is one of the Chinese relabeled. From the outside you can't tell the difference... the quality of the bolts and the grease spots inside are the main things. Between the good verse cheaper the arc chutes were difference. Cheap had the metal bent and louvered. But it was missing the epoxy boards at the ends and side to block sparks from the rest of the mechanism.
On the cheapest the bolt threads were badly formed.
Follow-up questions/comments:
1. Oh MAN I should have saved money the first time and gone with a circuit breaker rather than (the wrong) fuse and a switch, huh?
2. The three linked above are all for considerably more than the ~55v of the battery. I'm aware that breakers trip on Amps and not Volts, but is there any issue with running these things at ~55v instead of 120, 250, 500, 600, 1000v??
3. Is the winning play here running dual-pole and routing + and - both through it? Or... something else, because until 10 minutes ago I figured the switch and fuse go on the + side and - comes straight off the BMS P- ports.
1. Oh MAN I should have saved money the first time and gone with a circuit breaker rather than (the wrong) fuse and a switch, huh?
2. The three linked above are all for considerably more than the ~55v of the battery. I'm aware that breakers trip on Amps and not Volts, but is there any issue with running these things at ~55v instead of 120, 250, 500, 600, 1000v??
3. Is the winning play here running dual-pole and routing + and - both through it? Or... something else, because until 10 minutes ago I figured the switch and fuse go on the + side and - comes straight off the BMS P- ports.
robbob2112
Doing more research, mosty harmless
1st rule, buy nothing without a complete plan.
For the breakers, the black ones are my favorite. They have the highest AIC of the breakers listed. Inside there is a greater distance between the contact points and the best arc chutes that are magnetic.
In a floating system - system where neither pole is tied to a ground reference you want to break both current carrying conductors at the same time. You can break them both in a system with a ground reference as well, but not required.
No issue running the breakers at low voltage despite the max voltage rating.
So unless your plan includes tieing the negative battery pole to a chassis/frame/etc you use a 2-pole breaker and run both through it.
In a mobile system it is common to only break the positive. But in a house system both should be broken.
For the breakers, the black ones are my favorite. They have the highest AIC of the breakers listed. Inside there is a greater distance between the contact points and the best arc chutes that are magnetic.
In a floating system - system where neither pole is tied to a ground reference you want to break both current carrying conductors at the same time. You can break them both in a system with a ground reference as well, but not required.
No issue running the breakers at low voltage despite the max voltage rating.
So unless your plan includes tieing the negative battery pole to a chassis/frame/etc you use a 2-pole breaker and run both through it.
In a mobile system it is common to only break the positive. But in a house system both should be broken.
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MattMan119
Solar Geek
Long day and a out of progress… first big ops was setback in time nothing more.. do you see it?
But after I fixed the above, I got things moving.. and well here see for yourself
Now that I am looking at picture I missed wrapping busbars… might redo them .. not sure .
But after I fixed the above, I got things moving.. and well here see for yourself
Now that I am looking at picture I missed wrapping busbars… might redo them .. not sure .
42OhmsPA
What's in a title?
Hole for the all-thread drilled in the wrong location?
Looking good.
What are you using for insulators between the cells?
robbob2112
Doing more research, mosty harmless
You can see the same thin plastic as is on the sides of the cells is in between the cells.
42OhmsPA
What's in a title?
Looking closer I do. When I first looked all I was seeing was label edges.
MattMan119
Solar Geek
No forgot to put anything iver the threads … they are bare … Ugg. Had to take all apart and shrink wrap them all .. ops
Jchuet fish paper … all sides even the back.. had extra so I made sure everything has a layer of protection..
OK as long as I'm back in AliExpress and looking at the black 200A breaker, should I grab another one of these 2P breakers for the lines going from the solar array into my 6000XP? The 6000XP already comes with a switch in the side, but a switch is not a breaker. If so... my panel max Impp is (14.99A) and Isc is 15.91 so... 20A? The black ones are not available in that lower amperage; there is a "mini" in 20A size here: https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256806829706959.html
Thoughts?
Edit... looking at the TOMZN store trying to find a breaker box for these things and coming up empty. I'll keep searching but a recommendation there would also be super helpful!
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robbob2112
Doing more research, mosty harmless
I like these
For the lines from the PV array to the mppt you should be a dc isolator verse a breaker
For the lines from the PV array to the mppt you should be a dc isolator verse a breaker
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MattMan119
Solar Geek
Well,how about that …
The 6000XP already has isolators built in; you don't think I should put a breaker in-line too?
42OhmsPA
What's in a title?
Nice! It's time to charge your phone and build another one.
OffGridForGood
Catch, make or grow everything you can.
Glad you have that active balancer? I see it’s keeping busy at 1.8a.
Either, way I’d be mighty happy with that cell delta.
MattMan119
Solar Geek
It is not 100% necessary, but it is nice when you do need it … there have been a few side cases that I have used it. First was one battery was showing a weird temperature reading. This switch allowed me to quickly turn that battery off and check things out and get it back into service without interruption to the entire bank.
13% on my phone, could make life better and just shutdown on me.. then I don’t have to worry about interruptions.. lol, this is the only one, unless I take something out, I have 604ah in an RV…
Yes, as soon as I turned on the BMS it balanced everything out… under .006 and off now.. Will be interesting to get all the charge and discharge cable's connected and mounted, get this into the bank and see how much that active balance it uses on a regular bases.. but yes, I am very happy with the cells over all performance at this point. They have lived up to the name EVE Grade A.
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MattMan119
Solar Geek
OMG amazon, just delayed my t-fuse till the 6th … NOPE going to a few marine stores today and back to Amazon for extras or alternatives… no way at all is this is sitting till the 6th …
Brucey
Velcro Man
Cover it all with mylar tape and call it a day?
MattMan119
Solar Geek
Took it apart and used shrink wrap on them all … pain in the but, but only got to do it once ..
MattMan119
Solar Geek
Ok, let take a look at configuration … I only set basics but could be a good idea to review them all ..
Just remember remaining it wrong, as it will charge first time tomorrow … should be fun
Just remember remaining it wrong, as it will charge first time tomorrow … should be fun
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