Maybe masking tape/scotch tape would be best, any thick tape (duct/electrical) maybe a better insulator that heat conductor.
Yep, basically the cheapest most basic tape you can find is plenty fine, no need for duct tape or gorilla tape ^^
Maybe masking tape/scotch tape would be best, any thick tape (duct/electrical) maybe a better insulator that heat conductor.
A bad idea. The threads should not be carrying any current, the current should flow between the busbar or lug and the terminal face, any other path is not what it is designed for. Adding anything to the threads could also make it difficult to obtain the correct torque, and actually be counter productive.I would use silver soldering paste like a grease on the threads, and maybe also on the contact surfaces.
As less as needed, but sufficient enough.
Whats your opinion on this?
FYI, the link in your signature is quite informative on the topic.There is a link in my signature about battery melt down.
Your torque wrench will be your new best friend if you read the page.
I've tested extensively these two:I plan to use this:
between my aluminum busbars and my nickel plated copper terminals.
https://baymarinesupply.com/ftz-tinned-starter-lug.html which have a slight flange to make it easier to insert fine strand cable without losing some of the strands.Now I need to find some good lugs/ring terminals to fit 2ga wire. Would harbor freight have those? I’m going to look in a bit for those and a crimping tool.
Edit: Glad you found your problem!Update****
As suspected, I didn’t have things tight enough. I torqued everything down to 3nm to start with, and everything is completely cool now.
Now I need to find some good lugs/ring terminals to fit 2ga wire. Would harbor freight have those? I’m going to look in a bit for those and a crimping tool.
Update****
As suspected, I didn’t have things tight enough. I torqued everything down to 3nm to start with, and everything is completely cool now.
Now I need to find some good lugs/ring terminals to fit 2ga wire. Would harbor freight have those? I’m going to look in a bit for those and a crimping tool.
Hi all, I have a general question about how hot bus bars should typically get. I have built a 16S pack from the EVE 105ah cells. As you know, these have rather small terminals and they came with screws and bus bars. When I put about 20-30amp load on it, some of the terminals get very hot to the touch. I suppose it's more the screw that is getting hot, rather than the bus bar.
I've taken a few terminals and reseated the connectors (BMS) and it helped somewhat. I think I may be too scared to tighten these down too far, as I've heard horror stories about stripping these out.
Any advice? I suppose I need a proper torque measuring tool...
No, even genuine silver plated Anderson connectors will get very warm at their fully rated capacity. Going over their rated capacity will (I am sure) make you realize that they are accurately rated.I have ran like 200 AMPS plus for over 30 mins, the buss bars never got warm... What did get warm was my 175 Anderson connector, God, it was toasty and so was the 2 guage wire around it.
But the connector I got was probably some knock off from Amazon.
I bought SELTERM from amoron, then looked at what horrible freight had and they were not good.Update****
As suspected, I didn’t have things tight enough. I torqued everything down to 3nm to start with, and everything is completely cool now.
Now I need to find some good lugs/ring terminals to fit 2ga wire. Would harbor freight have those? I’m going to look in a bit for those and a crimping tool.