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Can a 230v EU Inverter run off of 240v split phase?

bgflyguy

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I'm looking at one of the 230v Growatt inverters to run a mini-split. It looks like the perfect size, and I don't need 120v output right now. Or if I did, I could always get a auto transformer or add another inverter.

My question is, can these run off of US style 240v? The "internet" says 240v is 240v, but I know that's incorrect. They also go off on rants about 50hz vs. 60hz, but that's not an issue here.

I would guess hooking up a scope to split-phase vs. true 230v AC would be different, but I can't find an example and even if I did I don't know what it means for the Growatt.

My last concern is since this is chinese, if they bounded nuetral and ground to the chassis, I could end up with a hot chassis. Or there could be any other number of weird design choices that would make this dangerous.

Has anyone done this?

 
Appliances here in US want 120 and 240 , within 1-2 +- . I believe if it's to far off they wont run right and or can fry them. I know clocks wont keep the right time . This is why i belive everyone want pure sine wave invertes for cleaner wave output. So things work right and less chance to kill appliances sensitive to the offset. I'm not an electrician though. I just bought a 5000 es 450v from signature solar it's 240v us version.
 
North America is 60HZ Frequency, 120V Single Phase, 240V Split Phase (2x 120V legs).
Do get a Pure Sine, Low Frequency system for best longevity & best voltage & requency resolution.
Europe os 50hz Frequency, 210-230V SINGLE PHASE (no legs).
They are NOT Compatible ! Do NOT even try !!
Use ONLY the correct one for your region.

Growatt is a Long Established well known Tier-1 & Tier-2 Manufacturer that provides a LOT of equipment towards the commercial side (Solar Farms etc). If you doubt that look at commercial rags & the Tradies but you can also look for information at "PV Magazine", "PV Tech" or "SolarPowerWorldOnline".

If buying Chinese equipment is a problem, then look at Victron or SolArk and pay the premium for that if you want.

Inversion Methods, High versus Low Frequency explained.
 
I'm looking at one of the 230v Growatt inverters to run a mini-split. It looks like the perfect size, and I don't need 120v output right now. Or if I did, I could always get a auto transformer or add another inverter.

My question is, can these run off of US style 240v? The "internet" says 240v is 240v, but I know that's incorrect. They also go off on rants about 50hz vs. 60hz, but that's not an issue here.

I would guess hooking up a scope to split-phase vs. true 230v AC would be different, but I can't find an example and even if I did I don't know what it means for the Growatt.

My last concern is since this is chinese, if they bounded nuetral and ground to the chassis, I could end up with a hot chassis. Or there could be any other number of weird design choices that would make this dangerous.

Has anyone done this?



Ground is ground
Neutral is 120v leg 1
Hot is 120v leg 2
 
But current output on those units will be 240 even if you have 2 legs going in.

Buy an autotransformer or a big transformer to convert over to 2 legs of 120v for your house.

Id recommend buying a big transformer and multiple 240v units
 
Appliances here in US want 120 and 240 , within 1-2 +- . I believe if it's to far off they wont run right and or can fry them. I know clocks wont keep the right time . This is why i belive everyone want pure sine wave invertes for cleaner wave output. So things work right and less chance to kill appliances sensitive to the offset. I'm not an electrician though. I just bought a 5000 es 450v from signature solar it's 240v us version.
Voltage in the grid is far more variable.
At my home a regular observe everything between 110V and 124V. When you got a ton of users on the grid in the evening - voltage goes down - during the night it goes up.
What appliances don't like is a change in Frequency - 60HZ - that needs to fixed. That is being kept within less then 1% variability.

Many modern power supplies and appliances come with wideband power supplies. All your power bricks theses days usually come with a 90-250V rating and take either 50 or 60HZ

I'm looking at one of the 230v Growatt inverters to run a mini-split. It looks like the perfect size, and I don't need 120v output right now. Or if I did, I could always get a auto transformer or add another inverter.

My question is, can these run off of US style 240v? The "internet" says 240v is 240v, but I know that's incorrect. They also go off on rants about 50hz vs. 60hz, but that's not an issue here.

I would guess hooking up a scope to split-phase vs. true 230v AC would be different, but I can't find an example and even if I did I don't know what it means for the Growatt.

My last concern is since this is chinese, if they bounded nuetral and ground to the chassis, I could end up with a hot chassis. Or there could be any other number of weird design choices that would make this dangerous.

Has anyone done this?

You need to check the label of you A/C unit what kind of power it takes.

My US 230V Mini split didn't come with a neutral - only two hots and a ground. By electrical code - neutral and ground should be only bonded at the Main distribution panel - and never ever at the appliance.
 
Ground is ground
Neutral is 120v leg 1
Hot is 120v leg 2
That is not correct.

L1 (leg one or phase 1) is 120VAC
L2 (leg two or phase 2) is 120VAC

L1 and L2 two are out of phase, so what that means is when L1 is rising in voltage L2 is going more negative in voltage....
So when L1 is at its peak L2 is at its lowest point so that is when you get 240VAC(RMS) between the two legs.
The neutral is between L1 and L2 is always the center voltage between the two and should be a zero volts when referenced to ground.

An Auto Transformer used to get a neutral is two long coils of wire ran next to each other so that one induces power into the other. Because electricity is running the full length of the wires the mid point of the wires is zero volts and this gives you the neural. This is simplistic as I can describe it. If someone has a more simplest or better description feel free to correct me.

The auto transformer doesn't have to be sized to the full load of your system but has to be sized to the imbalance of current in between L1 and L2.....
 
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That is not correct.

L1 (leg one or phase 1) is 120VAC
L2 (leg two or phase 2) is 120VAC

L1 and L2 two are out of phase, so what that means is when L1 is rising in voltage L2 is going more negative in voltage....
So when L1 is at its peak L2 is at its lowest point so that is when you get 240VAC(RMS) between the two legs.
The neutral is between L1 and L2 is always the center voltage between the two and should be a zero volts when referenced to ground.

An Auto Transformer used to get a neutral is two long coils of wire ran next to each other so that one induces power into the other. Because electricity is running the full length of the wires the mid point of the wires is zero volts and this gives you the neural. This is simplistic as I can describe it. If someone has a more simplest or better description feel free to correct me.

The auto transformer doesn't have to be sized to the full load of your system but has to be sized to the imbalance of current in between L1 and L2.....


Well I have a transformer...a 37.5KW transformer to be exact.

In comes 240v and out comes 2 legs of 120v. A hot and a neutral is all that is going to the unit.
 
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