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Can anyone recommend a good mid-range bench power supply.

NCblueridge

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Hi everyone. Can anyone recommend a good mid-range benchtop DC power supply. I purchased an inexpensive one on Amazon last week and although it works, I'm not impressed with it and plan on returning it and purchasing a better one for a little more money ($200-$400). I have other uses for it also with some electronic projects I plan on doing.

Thanks,
William
 
I have a Volteq, bought on Amazon. Mine is max 20 amps at 15 volts. They are available smaller and larger, your wallet your choice. This brand was recommended by Rod Collins of Marine How To, part of Compass Marine.
 
Decide if you want linear (low noise, heavy) or switching (cheap, noisey and lot of ripple).

For linear, Rigol DP832 is good mid range at $473.
 
On a whim, I recently bought a Korad KA3005D 30v 5A linear supply off Amazon for $108. I opened it up and inside doesn't look too bad. So far, so good. There is a 'P' model for a little more money with USB/serial computer remote control.

There is a Youtube review by the Aussie guy.
 
Did you get a power supply? If yes, which?
Hi Zil,

I decided to stick with the Dr. Meter unit for now. It only has a single output and is limited with features- but I am about broke with all the other stuff I've been buying with my solar projects for now.
 
I recently bought a 30v/10a Programable switching supply with USB/computer control from Amazon:
I wouldn't call this a mid-range bench supply however at that price it is very worth it.
I have been using it now for about 2 months and it has performed well.

I had been holding out for a better linear PS however I decided that cheap was better than nothing and got this one.
 
Avoid this one: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07M9N73YQ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
... I purchased this at the start of my DIY LiFePO4 and Solar System journey. Its' 30v /10 specs with a triple digit display; & looked great for the lower price. After using it several times now, I am not sure if my unit is a below par roll of dice, or not. I can get it to do what I want, but it does no let me dial in the voltage I want until I hook it up to a battery (even if I short the + and - wires together/ which was suggested in amazon questions & answers /& still wonder if that hurt my units functions). If you are working with LiFePO4 batteries, I recommend spending more money. I wish I had spend $20 more for same LONGWEI brand name's wider unit with same 30v/ 10A specs; (This one LOOKs Better/ I think this is one Ghostwriter gave a thumbs up to):
https://www.amazon.com/4-Digital-Pr...Multifunctional/dp/B07ML2MP9Q?ref_=ast_sto_dp
... or try another brand with lots of good reviews. Also make sure to avoid 30V / 5A specs when the 30V /10A units are available at similar prices.
 
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Avoid this one: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07M9N73YQ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
... I purchased this at the start of my DIY LiFePO4 and Solar System journey. Its' 30v /10 specs with a triple digit display; & looked great for the lower price. After using it several times now, I am not sure if my unit is a below par roll of dice, or not. I can get it to do what I want, but it does no let me dial in the voltage I want until I hook it up to a battery (even if I short the + and - wires together/ which was suggested in amazon questions & answers /& still wonder if that hurt my units functions). If you are working with LiFePO4 batteries, I recommend spending more money. I wish I had spend $20 more for same LONGWEI brand name's wider unit with same 30v/ 10A specs; (This one LOOKs Better/ I think this is one Ghostwriter gave a thumbs up to):
https://www.amazon.com/4-Digital-Pr...Multifunctional/dp/B07ML2MP9Q?ref_=ast_sto_dp
... or try another brand with lots of good reviews. Also make sure to avoid 30V / 5A specs when the 30V /10A units are available at similar prices.

If you’re setting the target voltage and current before connecting to your battery it is normal for the display to indicate lower voltage as it charges. It will rise to your preset voltage reading as the battery charges.
The current will drop close to zero as it approaches your target voltage.

I have been using this power supply for over 6 months now on 24v LiFePos with no problems. 10a is slow but gets the job done. I made new heavier leads from 10g wire as the originals are questionably light gauge. ✌️
 
If you’re setting the target voltage and current before connecting to your battery it is normal for the display to indicate lower voltage as it charges. It will rise to your preset voltage reading as the battery charges.
The current will drop close to zero as it approaches your target voltage.

I have been using this power supply for over 6 months now on 24v LiFePos with no problems. 10a is slow but gets the job done. I made new heavier leads from 10g wire as the originals are questionably light gauge. ✌️
Glad your same models works as expected :+) Re: My Power Supply: I would Avoid (because of my experience: : My voltage and current display remain at 0.00 when I turn my bench power suppy ON before connecting to battery. I presently think that is NOT normal. I may have received a defective unit that is too old to return; & I would return it if I could. That said; ... I have been able to get it to charge my battery (to 3.65V or for my 24v set) by hooking it up to my battery charging task first, and then dialing the knobs (usually with current knob twisted clockwise to full, before battery connect, and sometimes not). The other weird aspect on the one I have, is I can not dial my voltage setting up my full voltage target when I get it to show voltage and current by connected to the battery, and as it charges battery and eventually reduces in Amps, I have to UP the voltage setting (go up, but still not to target until later). ... I have been adjusting my voltage setting upward until I again see full 10 amp CC current. I have to do this in cycles to reach my target voltage. At each adjust cycle, after see full current Amps again, I have been twisting the voltage knob towards reduced voltage (there is arrange of twisting that = no change to digit readings) ... I twist towards reduced voltage until I see the CC Amp figures just start to change. I do that with thoughts; ... If I leave the voltage knob twisted farther clockise or anywhere (I notice the voltage figures can raise when I am not looking, ... and I might come back to a way overcharged battery cell, ... when not paying attention. My unit is finiky; and it does not always behave the same as it did 10 minutes ago. ... I can get it to work ... but think I got an odd roll of dice. I wished I had purchased that fatter unit that cost about $20 or maybe just $15 more; has same specs, more dials to fine tune adjustments/ Think it is better/ my tow cents :+) ... And Yes to thicker wire leads and better connectors. Those banana plugs are a very weak link for 10Amps of current/ followed by those thin wires. ... & gotta admit; this was my first bench power supply, and I am still learning about em :+)
 
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I bought a TekPower TP1540E for $189 USD to charge Cells, top balancing & charging up to 12V battery assembly.
I've used it quite a bit for Top Charging cells starting at 3.4V/45A CV till the cells hit 3.65V and are taking only 1.5-2.0A.
I had a problem with it when I first got it.... A Connector inside got loose (I guess during shipping, reconnected connectors and all was good.
Takes roughly 13 hours to take an EVE 280AH Cell from 2.60V to fully topped 3.65V drawing only 1.9A.

* Quirk. As most model with "dial" setting for voltage & current, you have to babysit the voltage as the cell fill. Once the amperage starts to drop below 25A the increase in voltage accelerates. Cells will absorb voltage quite quickly past 3.500V so you MUST eagle eye on the cells, check the terminal voltage on the Bench Supply against the cell voltage as you will have to fine-tune it at this stage. KEEP watching as the amperage declines, the voltage will increase to the cell and at the cell. Eventually, you will find the sweet spot for 3.600 or 3.650 where the amperage will slowly decrease to below 2.0A by which point the cell will be reaching "saturation". That can sit there but the amps dropping will slow as it continues from this point with little gain for the energy expended.

A note on Saturation.
Take a cell to 3.65V and just disconnect that "that voltage" and it will settle to 3.4?? something within an 1.5 hrs, 24 hours later it will be very low 3.400 to high 3.38+
Take a cell and fully top it "saturate" it at 3.65V and in 1 hour it will be 3.600, 2 hours 3.59?, 24 hours later 3.55?
This is consistent across the cells I have done.

TekPower also has this TP3030E 0-30V / 0-30A for $299 USD
TP3030E , Tekpower supply, DC Variable power supply, Adjustable Power supply, DC Power supply
 
@Capt Bill Sounds like you did receive a defective unit. :unsure: I also keep a close eye on it as it quickly rises toward the 28.6v end. The A123 batteries I have recommend a 28.8v charge max so I set my PS at 28.6v 10a. Usually drops Current to .03a when CV finally reaches 28.6v. The batteries BT screen for the BMS will show no charge 0 coming into the battery at that low Current. But I still keep an eye on it. ✌️
 

I wonder if there are cheaper copies of these.

Steve, Looks like TekPower is working for you, I am tempted to pick up the 1540.
Yeah, it's working fine. There is WanTek and a few others which are similar at various price points.
I personally do not like the Dial Settings, would have prefered a digitally controlled model where you could dial in precise voltage / amperage but when I looked for that capability the $$$ were piled on too.
 
Hi everyone. Can anyone recommend a good mid-range benchtop DC power supply. I purchased an inexpensive one on Amazon last week and although it works, I'm not impressed with it and plan on returning it and purchasing a better one for a little more money ($200-$400). I have other uses for it also with some electronic projects I plan on doing.

Thanks,
William


12v, 24v, 36v, 48v and 56v and so on, I would use:

1. 12/24 - Powermax chargers like pm3-55lk, very good value and you CAN set the voltage.

2. Higher voltage - browse endless-sphere forum, those guys use meanwell hrpg or hrp module quite well.

3.3 - This is what most need and it does NOT make send to by a big azz Bench PS for 3.3

I would use:

1. A 300w buck/boost module with a 12v source.

I am going to test this out this weekend, and post my finding.
 
Hi everyone. Can anyone recommend a good mid-range benchtop DC power supply. I purchased an inexpensive one on Amazon last week and although it works, I'm not impressed with it and plan on returning it and purchasing a better one for a little more money ($200-$400). I have other uses for it also with some electronic projects I plan on doing.

Thanks,
William
Riden D6018 would be my recommendation.
 
I have been using this power supply for over 6 months now on 24v LiFePos with no problems. 10a is slow but gets the job done. I made new heavier leads from 10g wire as the originals are questionably light gauge. ✌️

Hello, how or where did you get new ends/plugs to connect into the power supply?
 
A note on Saturation.
Take a cell to 3.65V and just disconnect that "that voltage" and it will settle to 3.4?? something within an 1.5 hrs, 24 hours later it will be very low 3.400 to high 3.38+
Take a cell and fully top it "saturate" it at 3.65V and in 1 hour it will be 3.600, 2 hours 3.59?, 24 hours later 3.55?
This is consistent across the cells I have done.

I will confirm this. I have been using a Riden 12 amp, and now upgraded to 18 amp supply and using the battery charge feature. I set the target voltage at 3.65 volts, and it will shutdown when 3.65v and .1 amps is reached. 24 hours later they are at 3.55 volts. I can confirm this is consistent behavior.
 
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