Can anyone recommend a good mid-range bench power supply.

[sshibly]

I will confirm this. I have been using a Riden 12 amp, and now upgraded to 18 amp supply and using the battery charge feature. I set the target voltage at 3.65 volts, and it will shutdown when 3.65v and .1 amps is reached. 24 hours later they are at 3.55 volts. I can confirm this is consistent behavior.

Nice, so it has a voltage sensor and disconnects, zero volt going out of the output?

 

[sshibly]

Hello, how or where did you get new ends/plugs to connect into the power supply?

just use spade ends, cheap and easy to crimp.

 

[Just John]

Nice, so it has a voltage sensor and disconnects, zero volt going out of the output?

It's not a true lab supply with remote sense leads. However the algorithm it uses is very good, it will stop sending current for a split second, wait for the voltage to settle and then read what voltage the cell is at (and will tell you). Different ones are calibrated different, the 12 amp board when set at 3.65 would go to 3.654, the 18 amp one gets it to 3.651. Yes, once it reaches target voltage and .1 amps, it disconnects power to the cell, and tells you the current voltage of the cell, and how many amp hours it put into it. For the price, it is a very good supply.

 

[dgd4040]

I bought a TekPower TP1540E for $189 USD to charge Cells, top balancing & charging up to 12V battery assembly.
I've used it quite a bit for Top Charging cells starting at 3.4V/45A CV till the cells hit 3.65V and are taking only 1.5-2.0A.
I had a problem with it when I first got it.... A Connector inside got loose (I guess during shipping, reconnected connectors and all was good.
Takes roughly 13 hours to take an EVE 280AH Cell from 2.60V to fully topped 3.65V drawing only 1.9A.

* Quirk. As most model with "dial" setting for voltage & current, you have to babysit the voltage as the cell fill. Once the amperage starts to drop below 25A the increase in voltage accelerates. Cells will absorb voltage quite quickly past 3.500V so you MUST eagle eye on the cells, check the terminal voltage on the Bench Supply against the cell voltage as you will have to fine-tune it at this stage. KEEP watching as the amperage declines, the voltage will increase to the cell and at the cell. Eventually, you will find the sweet spot for 3.600 or 3.650 where the amperage will slowly decrease to below 2.0A by which point the cell will be reaching "saturation". That can sit there but the amps dropping will slow as it continues from this point with little gain for the energy expended.

A note on Saturation.
Take a cell to 3.65V and just disconnect that "that voltage" and it will settle to 3.4?? something within an 1.5 hrs, 24 hours later it will be very low 3.400 to high 3.38+
Take a cell and fully top it "saturate" it at 3.65V and in 1 hour it will be 3.600, 2 hours 3.59?, 24 hours later 3.55?
This is consistent across the cells I have done.

TekPower also has this TP3030E 0-30V / 0-30A for $299 USD
TP3030E , Tekpower supply, DC Variable power supply, Adjustable Power supply, DC Power supply

Hi there, I have been reading all I can about power supplies and top balancing. When you said "Cells will absorb voltage quite quickly past 3.500V so you MUST eagle eye on the cells," shouldn't the PS not allow the voltage to go past the set point? (if you have it set for 3.65 or lower)? So you shouldn't have to watch it too closely? Just want to make sure I don't destroy my new cell ordered today!

 

[Steve_S]

Relying on the "display" of any power supply is not usually recommended unless you are using serious Lab Grade gear. What a Powersupply reads at it's own terminals and what is "actual" at the cell may also vary for a number of reasons, therefore you do need to watch the voltages with a DMM when at the end of the range.

 

[dgd4040]

Relying on the "display" of any power supply is not usually recommended unless you are using serious Lab Grade gear. What a Powersupply reads at it's own terminals and what is "actual" at the cell may also vary for a number of reasons, therefore you do need to watch the voltages with a DMM when at the end of the range.

Thanks for the speedy reply. I do have a background in Electronics so I get what you are saying. I am looking to get a 'decent' power supply

 

[Positronium]

The Junsi iCharger X8 has an overlooked power supply supply mode. The iCharger X8 is also a 8s balance charger with regenerative discharge.

Amazon.com: iCharger The Junsi X8 Lilo/LiPo/Life/NiMH/NiCD DC Battery Charger Features 8S Capabilities and Up to 1100W of Power and Up to 30 Amps of Charge Current.: Toys & Games

Amazon.com: iCharger The Junsi X8 Lilo/LiPo/Life/NiMH/NiCD DC Battery Charger Features 8S Capabilities and Up to 1100W of Power and Up to 30 Amps of Charge Current.: Toys & Games

www.amazon.com

The specifications are in page 4 of the manual attached. The iCharger is capable of 30A of charging and 30A of regenerative discharge. The power supply set up is on page 23 of manual. I admittedly use the iCharger X8 primarily as balance charger for my small 4s LiFePO4 projects. I have not used the power supply mode much aside from testing small DC loads at 8s LiFePO4 at full absorption voltage of 29.2V. Lots of crap online sold as being 24V compatible but really aren't so I tested some to see if they could work for a future project 8s.

 

[MrNatural22]

Relying on the "display" of any power supply is not usually recommended unless you are using serious Lab Grade gear. What a Powersupply reads at it's own terminals and what is "actual" at the cell may also vary for a number of reasons, therefore you do need to watch the voltages with a DMM when at the end of the range.

Great advise.
I use the inexpensive 30v 10a Longwi PS for charging my 12/24v batteries when not using solar. I’ve had great but slooow ?success with it but I do keep my DMM connected to the battery terminals when setting the Voltage and while charging because I just never had much trust in the Longwi’s display and it is off a bit.

 

[ePowerBank]

Hi there, I have been reading all I can about power supplies and top balancing. When you said "Cells will absorb voltage quite quickly past 3.500V so you MUST eagle eye on the cells," shouldn't the PS not allow the voltage to go past the set point? (if you have it set for 3.65 or lower)? So you shouldn't have to watch it too closely? Just want to make sure I don't destroy my new cell ordered today!

Hello @dgd4040:
Your question is exactly what I was wondering as I'm preparing to top balance for 1st time.
If you've got a PS now, does it do as you asked, stop charging or turn off when reaching desired voltage?

I'm wondering if this is a feature to look for, i.e. programable etc since it's time to find a PS myself.
Thanks for sharing!

 

[Just John]

Hello @dgd4040:
Your question is exactly what I was wondering as I'm preparing to top balance for 1st time.
If you've got a PS now, does it do as you asked, stop charging or turn off when reaching desired voltage?

I'm wondering if this is a feature to look for, i.e. programable etc since it's time to find a PS myself.
Thanks for sharing!

As long as you set the voltage correctly (set it before you connect to the battery), it won't overcharge, but it also won't turn it off. When amps in drops under an amp, you should turn it off and disconnect.

Some power supplies (like my programmable Riden) have a battery charging function that will shut off the output when the amps drop low enough. You pay for the quality and flexibility.

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[Horsefly]

I hadn't seen this thread until tonight. Sorry for chiming in late.

I actually have 4 bench power supplies. (It's a long story, but somewhat entertaining) Charging cells is not really that hard, and not particularly risky. I have wired up some combiner harnesses, so I can use 1, 2, 3, or 4 at the same time.

1. One at a time, I set the voltage output on which every units I'm going to use. To do this, I disconnect the power supply completely from any probes or connections. Then I power it up. I adjust the voltage using a digital multimeter (DMM) that I have verified with a voltage reference. I DO NOT trust the display on the bench power supply. Having got the voltage to where I want it (e.g., 3.65V for top balancing cells), I NEVER touch the voltage dials again. Resist!
2. Then I turn off the power supply, connect the positive and negative leads, and turn it back on. Now I adjust the current to the max I want that power supply to provide. For the cheap 30V / 10A supplies, I never exceed about 8A, otherwise you risk blowing it (voice of experience here). Now turn the PS back off, and disconnect the two leads. NEVER TOUCH THE CURRENT DIAL AGAIN.
3. Proceed to do the same thing with other power supplies you have. That is, adjust the voltage with nothing connected, adjust the current with leads shorted, and shut it back off again.
4. Once you have how ever many supplies set up, turn them all on and wire them to the load (cells, in this case). The voltage readings on the displays will not match what you set. IGNORE IT. DO NOT ADJUST ANYTHING ON THE SUPPLIES. The voltage will slowly climb up to what you set, the current will slowly drop from what you set.

With my 4 power supplies, I can pretty easily charge for a target of anywhere from 3.65V to 28V (my target for my 8S pack) at up to something close to 40A (7A + 7A +7A + 18A for my PS's). That seems plenty, and I am confident in both the voltage and current using these steps.

 

[Just John]

1. Then I turn off the power supply, connect the positive and negative leads, and turn it back on. Now I adjust the current to the max I want that power supply to provide. For the cheap 30V / 10A supplies, I never exceed about 8A, otherwise you risk blowing it (voice of experience here). Now turn the PS back off, and disconnect the two leads. NEVER TOUCH THE CURRENT DIAL AGAIN.

There are some you can be confident in using the full rated output.

Cheap power supply for top balancing (tested and works well).

First, a link to the cheapest 30 volt, 10 amp supply I could find on Amazon. There are others on occasion that go on special for a dollar or two less, but this one is pretty consistently the cheapest I could find. https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B07512KQDW/ An alternative that is not as...

diysolarforum.com

 

[ePowerBank]

As long as you set the voltage correctly (set it before you connect to the battery), it won't overcharge, but it also won't turn it off. When amps in drops under an amp, you should turn it off and disconnect.

Some power supplies (like my programmable Riden) have a battery charging function that will shut off the output when the amps drop low enough. You pay for the quality and flexibility.

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Thanks for the suggestions!
Hope I could find one on Amazon since my 16 REPT cells arrive next week - that's another story ;-)
I found assembled here at Amazon - but starts at 12A ;-(
I like the idea of the 60v for my 16s battery I'm building - I'll continue the quest.
THANKS

https://www.amazon.com/Adjustable-Converter-Switching-Regulated-4-Digital/dp/B08JPKQD41/ref=psdc_10967761_t1_B08CGV1ML9

 

[ePowerBank]

I hadn't seen this thread until tonight. Sorry for chiming in late.

I actually have 4 bench power supplies. (It's a long story, but somewhat entertaining) Charging cells is not really that hard, and not particularly risky. I have wired up some combiner harnesses, so I can use 1, 2, 3, or 4 at the same time.

1. One at a time, I set the voltage output on which every units I'm going to use. To do this, I disconnect the power supply completely from any probes or connections. Then I power it up. I adjust the voltage using a digital multimeter (DMM) that I have verified with a voltage reference. I DO NOT trust the display on the bench power supply. Having got the voltage to where I want it (e.g., 3.65V for top balancing cells), I NEVER touch the voltage dials again. Resist!
2. Then I turn off the power supply, connect the positive and negative leads, and turn it back on. Now I adjust the current to the max I want that power supply to provide. For the cheap 30V / 10A supplies, I never exceed about 8A, otherwise you risk blowing it (voice of experience here). Now turn the PS back off, and disconnect the two leads. NEVER TOUCH THE CURRENT DIAL AGAIN.
3. Proceed to do the same thing with other power supplies you have. That is, adjust the voltage with nothing connected, adjust the current with leads shorted, and shut it back off again.
4. Once you have how ever many supplies set up, turn them all on and wire them to the load (cells, in this case). The voltage readings on the displays will not match what you set. IGNORE IT. DO NOT ADJUST ANYTHING ON THE SUPPLIES. The voltage will slowly climb up to what you set, the current will slowly drop from what you set.

With my 4 power supplies, I can pretty easily charge for a target of anywhere from 3.65V to 28V (my target for my 8S pack) at up to something close to 40A (7A + 7A +7A + 18A for my PS's). That seems plenty, and I am confident in both the voltagMe and current using these steps.

WOW - eyes wide open!
I'm first-timer here balancing new set of REPT (EVE substitutes) and don't want to mess things up - I KNOW you & John helped steer me on track - thanks.

 

[time2roll]

I have an HQ Power PS1503SBU that I use to run my model train around at Christmas. Max 15 volts and 3 amps but has been reliable for many years. I might be using it for my battery build. A bit slow at just 3 amps. Might be available with higher ratings but this is all I needed at the time.

http://www.allspectrum.com/store/lab-power-supply-15v-3a-digital-display-with-backlight-p-534.html

 

[Just John]

WOW - eyes wide open!
I'm first-timer here balancing new set of REPT (EVE substitutes) and don't want to mess things up - I KNOW you & John helped steer me on track - thanks.

I can tell you that the cheap alligator clips most supplies come with are terrible. More than one instance of people doubling charge rate by making real cables. Proper size wire and ring terminals work wonders sometimes.

The one I reviewed came with almost mediocre alligator to banana jacks. Most come with horrible leads.

 

[sshibly]

Here is what I do:
1. Connect 4 cells in series with BMS and charge to MAX voltage per cell spec
3.6 x 4 = 14.4v

2. Take voltage of each cell and find the low ones

3. User my balancer GK-9000 I build off 2 CC CV DROK digital charger to charge 2 low cells individually [I am goin to add a XT-60 connector to EACH of my cells so I can plug this balancer in securely to each cells individually]

4. Once the #3 step is done, I will charge the remaining 2 with the Balancer GK-9000, that should bring all of them to the same level QUICKLY [I lack the patience sorry]

GK-9000
1. Added heat sinks and a little fan to the DROK unit to impress the ladies.
Cost:
Each DROK CC/CV chargers $8 = $16
Plus $2 for fans and heatsink = Total $18

 

[ePowerBank]

As long as you set the voltage correctly (set it before you connect to the battery), it won't overcharge, but it also won't turn it off. When amps in drops under an amp, you should turn it off and disconnect.

Some power supplies (like my programmable Riden) have a battery charging function that will shut off the output when the amps drop low enough. You pay for the quality and flexibility.

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Thank you again John for the Riden recommendation.
What I like:

60V / 6.7A (nice option for 48V bank I think)​

Linear (cleaner power)​

Current Accuracy 1ma​

Volt Accuracy 10mv​

Auto off (I hope)​

I'm doing it as a kit from Amazon ~ $130 + tax. A ton of YT for assembling etc. - so I hope it's a drop in.
Be careful to anyone about higher amp (12a, 18a) versions of same unit, unless you want that high.

Amazon.com

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08N64XLR4/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

 

[Just John]

Thank you again John for the Riden recommendation.
What I like:

60V / 6.7A (nice option for 48V bank I think)​

Linear (cleaner power)​

Current Accuracy 1ma​

Volt Accuracy 10mv​

Auto off (I hope)​

I'm doing it as a kit from Amazon ~ $130 + tax. A ton of YT for assembling etc. - so I hope it's a drop in.
Be careful to anyone about higher amp (12a, 18a) versions of same unit, unless you want that high.

Amazon.com

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08N64XLR4/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

OK, be forewarned, you'll need a 1220 button cell and a power cord.

I currently own a 12 amp model and four of the 18 amp models. I order directly from Riden, they use UPS expedited and it takes about two weeks.

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If you look at the aliexpress link above, it has links to the software, manuals, assembly videos, and operations videos.

The 6 amp model doesn't have a problem, but the 12 amp model sold with a 800 watt supply will have the supply die in about 30 minutes when cranked up to 720 watts output (i.e. 60 volts at 12 amps).
The 1000 watt supply they sell for the 18 amp model won't do above 950 watts, at least that is what Riden says. They also have a software setting to enable you to limit the output so it doesn't die. I haven't tried it yet, I bought some 1200 watt supplies before they got the 1000 watt model in.

Very nice phone and PC app. It has a center green terminal, when you use that it goes into battery charge mode and will shut itself off when the battery is full. If you need any help when you get it, just let me know. Not difficult to assemble, everything is included except power cord and the battery (stores date and time, and Wi-Fi settings if you buy the Wi-Fi module).

 

[ePowerBank]

OK, be forewarned, you'll need a 1220 button cell and a power cord.

I currently own a 12 amp model and four of the 18 amp models. I order directly from Riden, they use UPS expedited and it takes about two weeks.

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Smarter Shopping, Better Living! Aliexpress.com

www.aliexpress.com

If you look at the aliexpress link above, it has links to the software, manuals, assembly videos, and operations videos.

The 6 amp model doesn't have a problem, but the 12 amp model sold with a 800 watt supply will have the supply die in about 30 minutes when cranked up to 720 watts output (i.e. 60 volts at 12 amps).
The 1000 watt supply they sell for the 18 amp model won't do above 950 watts, at least that is what Riden says. They also have a software setting to enable you to limit the output so it doesn't die. I haven't tried it yet, I bought some 1200 watt supplies before they got the 1000 watt model in.

Very nice phone and PC app. It has a center green terminal, when you use that it goes into battery charge mode and will shut itself off when the battery is full. If you need any help when you get it, just let me know. Not difficult to assemble, everything is included except power cord and the battery (stores date and time, and Wi-Fi settings if you buy the Wi-Fi module).

Thanks for the tips John - hope to be set up charging/testing in about a week!