Can I put a system together with these components?

[sigs76]

Hi all,

I'm pretty new to solar. I have collected some things over the past few years. I'm experimenting in my back yard with off grid solar setups. This is not critical by any means, I'm perfectly fine with my grid power, I'm just a hands on learner and want to start learning for possible cabin scenarios, etc in the future. I would NEVER consider grid tying or anything stupid. I was a science major in college and took physics (although it's been a while). I'm in CT if that matters, as far as temps, think New England.

I have these components:
(10) Trina 250w Panels (older, I'd say 15+ years maybe?, bought off of FBMP, not sure if they are putting out what they are rated for)
Renogy Wanderer 30amp SCC
(2) Duralast 12v Deep Cycle Marine Batteries
Energizer 2000w Inverter
various fuses
1/0 gauge for inverter to battery.
10AWG for panels to SCC and all my other connections

*I'll list the specs and post pics below

I'm reading as much as I can. A few things get confusing. Tried my best to do my own due diligence before posting, but I'm still a bit confused on a few things.

My plan was to hook up one or two of the solar panels to the SCC and just see how much electricity I could generate, plug in a few lights, charge a laptop, etc mostly just for fun and the learning experience in hopes that one day if I buy a cabin I can build my own system to power it.

I'm thinking my SCC is my weak point. according to renogy's site, the SCC can only handle 25v PV input max. One of my trina panels is Vmp=30.3V and Voc=37.6V.

are 30ish volt panels designed for 24V systems? I'm gathering that you want your panel array's voltage to be slightly above your battery bank's voltage?

Can I "overpanel" this SCC? I just want to run one panel into the SCC. 25V max on the SCC but my panel is 30mp and 37oc? Will this harm the SCC? Bear in mind, it's a PWM.

My thoughts right now are to buy this MPPT SCC:
60A MakeSkyBlue

• Maximum PV Array Power:

1. ≤ 720W Panel for 12V Battery
2. ≤ 1440W Panel for 24V Battery
3. ≤ 2800W Panel for 48V Battery

• PV Array Open Circuit Voltage (Voc):

1. 20V-80V for 12V Battery
2. 37V-105V for 24V Battery
3. 72V-160V For 48V Battery

Ideally, I'd like to run at least 3 panels in series. What do I have to pay attention to when matching panels to the SCC?

My energizer inverter says 12V, so that means I can only run 12V battery banks, correct?

So if that's the case, the MakeSkyBlue MPPT can only handle 720W for a 12V battery. My Trina panels are 250W max so would running 750W be bad? or is that what is considered "overpaneling?" The MakeSkyBlue also lists 20-80V as the Voc for a 12V battery. 3 of my Trina panels in series would be 112.8V. According to the specs above this would exceed the max Voc for both the 12V and 24V battery bank. Would I have to run a 48V battery bank?

And finally, the inverter being made for 12V only? This means that if I wanted to experiment with 24 or 48v systems I would also have to swap that out as well, correct?

The other aspect of all this is how much more money do I have to spend to just to experiment??? lol. Not trying to be cheap. Spending the $75 on the MPPT is within budget. But now I'm worried I might have to change all of these components to work with my panels. I'm fine running one panel for now, 3 ideally though. or if some type of parallel config makes more sense, I'm open to that. It's just experimenting. I don't have specific needs.

I apologize in advance. I know I'm a little all over the place. My head is spinning from all the stuff I've been reading the past few days. Any help is appreciated. Thanks in advance!
____________
Specs and Pics are below:

Specs of my components:
__________
TrinaSolar Panels (panels are old)
TSM-250PA05.08

Maximum Power(Pmax) 250 W
Maximum Power Voltage (Vmp) 30.3 V
Maximum Power Current (Imp) 8.27 A

Open Circuit Voltage (Voc) 37.6V
Short Circuit Current (Isc) 8.85A

Maximum System Voltage 600 VDC
Maximum Series Fuse 15 A
Minimum Bypass Diode 15 A
Fire Rating Class C
________
Inverter

Energizer 2000w Inverter
Model EN2000

2000w
17.9 A

4000w peak
_____________
Renogy Wanderer
Model CTRL-WND30-LI
PWM Charge Controller
30A
Max PV Input Power 400W
25V max input (per website)
_____________
Batteries

(2) Duralast Marine/RV Deep Cycle
Model 27DC-DL
12V
840 MCA
180 RC
~115 Ah?

 

[Mattb4]

With the panels you have I would eliminate the PWM SCC as being any part of your experimentation.

Some answers to the rest of your questions:

Any SCC you use will have a max Voc which must not be exceeded. Your panels are rated 37.6Voc at 25C. In Series connected the Voc adds and the current stays the same as the lowest panels current. Imp for your panels is 8.27a. From this you can figure how many panels in what type of arrangement (Series, Parallel) works best. You mention 3 panels in series. 3 X 37.6vDC= 112.8vDC Amperage for wire size would be 8.27a. Max SCC wattage can vary a bit base on SCC but generally speaking the SCC can only make use of the amount it is rated to output. Thus a 60a SCC will only draw 60a time battery voltage from your panels. Anything more just does not get used. Over paneling can allow for longer periods at max wattage. This can be handy in less than ideal sun conditions. Most SCC manufacturers give an idea of amount of over paneling they will accept though many folks blow right by it for their particular setups.

Yes a 12vDC inverter needs 12vDC battery.

 

[robbob2112]

Don't buy anything else unless you have a plan in place on what you are doing.

If the batteries are new, return them - you will want a LiFePO4 chemistry battery and at the right voltage, may as well spend that money where it counts. If they were part of the kit you bought you can see if they are still usable. Clean the tops with just water and dry them. Pop the tops and see if the water level is ok inside them or if they need some added. If they do need water added, use distilled only.

Take the car fuses I see in the picture and put them in your toolbox or a dark corner of the garage and see if they multiply on their own Automotive style fuses generally have no place in solar. You can use them with what you have but when you upgrade the batteries they go away and you get something more suitable.

If you buy a SCC that can output at 12, 24, 48 that is money that isn't wasted when you upgrade. Skip the one you have listed since it is only for lead acid batteries. Get one that does different chemistries including the LFP listed above.

So define a budget and spend it where it counts.

 

[Rednecktek]

Meh, Free Equipment > Cheap Equipment so use what you can.

For the most part you've got a decent learner setup, EXCEPT that charge controller. The MakeBlueSky you're looking at can do up to 2 panels in series, and you can add in another two panels in parallel for a 2s2p setup. That's going to provide enough solar panel to max out your controller and still give you good power in winter. I've got a couple of the PowMr versions that have been in service since 2018 and they still turn Solar DC into Battery DC just fine.

You'll need to look at all the fuses and see what their amperage rating is. No point putting a 20a fuse on an inverter trying to draw 180a off the battery. That little square guy with the 2 bolts sticking out is likely too small to be of use for anything.

When you go to hook up your batteries, take your main Positive off of battery-1 and your main Negative off of battery-2. That'll help keep them balanced and healthier.

When you've got a few bucks to spare, grab yourself a basic Aili shunt so you can learn about battery monitoring and loads and such. It's a cheap tool for learning. Another tool you're going to want to add to the box real early on is a DC Amp Clamp Multi Meter so you can poke for voltages and resistance and amp draw and the like.

Free Stuff > Cheap Stuff and Cheap Stuff > No Stuff.