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Can someone help with a 24v system

CravinR1

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Oct 17, 2021
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I am wanting a 24v system in a roller cart to be moved easily. My main questions is does this diagram look ok and what fuse size should be on the battery and what breaker size between the battery and inverter.
Panels will be in series (69w x 8.7 amp) as will the batteries (206AH x 24v) with a 3000w 24v inverter

diagram.png
 
I would ditch the load meter, and switch to a shunt equipped meter. The s inductive pickups are flaky… any movement, orientation, or wire issues and the readings go bonkers.
 
I would ditch the load meter, and switch to a shunt equipped meter. The s inductive pickups are flaky… any movement, orientation, or wire issues and the readings go bonkers.
Since this is going in a mobile cart I just ordered a shunted monitor. Thanks
 
Ty for the info. I went with the 250a t breaker due to the 6000w spike.
That sort of negates the protection mechanism. Make sure the wiring (and everything else) can handle 250A. You want the fuse to blow first, so it needs to be rated below everything else.
 
That sort of negates the protection mechanism. Make sure the wiring (and everything else) can handle 250A. You want the fuse to blow first, so it needs to be rated below everything else.
If the 3000w continuous is capable of providing up to 6000w wouldn't it blow the fuse every time a temporary load spike is applied (such as turning on a power tool). Also wouldn't I want a inline fuse of 150a from battery to busbar if I had 125a breaker on the inverter and its my heaviest draw.

I found this after asking the question:
 
What size wires are you going to use? What distance between components?
 
Yeah, throw a 150a fuse on the battery, that's there to protect the wires.

Since it's on a cart I can't see the wire lengths being very long so you shouldn't have any worries about voltage drop. Most calculators will give you the first few feet free anyways because it's so short.

That's a LOT of breakers involved. You really like your disconnects. :)

Definitely get a bolt-in type shunt meter, like the AiLi's meter. They're a lot more accurate and easier to mount than trying to get the wire placement to stay in the middle of a ring as you roll it around.
 
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