Canadian lithium Options MSI and Lynac

[Steve_S]

If the 24V batteries are identical 24V/100AH and you are doing a 24V system, then put them in parallel. Equal length wires from batteries to common Busbars (Negative & Positive). 1 Fuse per battery, I personally favour MRBF type fuses.

 

[fuchsia]

Thx again KB you have put lots of time into your response, much appreciated. I will now buy two 24 volt 100 amp LFP in parallel. Next decision which ones. James

 

[GoneMild]

Im thinking of building my first Solar system on a van, I was looking at SOK battery but they are out of stock. Looks like Lynac 12.8V 100Ah – True Series will be my choice of Lithium Battery. Im planning on only running one 100watt solar panel (from renogy) with it and maybe hook it up with my Van battery to be charged in conjunction by the alternator. I dont think Ill have a lot of demand for energy, but im not 100% sure what the future holds. Ive tried doing my research but I figured there are those out there who are actually experienced and more knowledgeable.

Will this system work okay with the Lynac Battery? Ive tried looking at any information about Lynac but I cant seem to find too much.

​

 

[KBWaldron]

Im thinking of building my first Solar system on a van, I was looking at SOK battery but they are out of stock. Looks like Lynac 12.8V 100Ah – True Series will be my choice of Lithium Battery. Im planning on only running one 100watt solar panel (from renogy) with it and maybe hook it up with my Van battery to be charged in conjunction by the alternator. I dont think Ill have a lot of demand for energy, but im not 100% sure what the future holds. Ive tried doing my research but I figured there are those out there who are actually experienced and more knowledgeable.

Will this system work okay with the Lynac Battery? Ive tried looking at any information about Lynac but I cant seem to find too much.

​

You won’t be able to hook it up with your van battery. Different chemistries mean different charging profiles and different charge levels. The stock alternator won’t be up to charging the LiFePo4 either. Consider a second beefier alternator designed for charging this type of battery. As for the Lynac it‘s just a LiFePo4 with built in BMS, like say a Battleborn.
Also, remember that unlike Lead Acid, you need to keep the LiFePo4 batteries above zero degrees C when charging, or you’ll destroy them.

 

[GoneMild]

You won’t be able to hook it up with your van battery. Different chemistries mean different charging profiles and different charge levels. The stock alternator won’t be up to charging the LiFePo4 either. Consider a second beefier alternator designed for charging this type of battery. As for the Lynac it‘s just a LiFePo4 with built in BMS, like say a Battleborn.
Also, remember that unlike Lead Acid, you need to keep the LiFePo4 batteries above zero degrees C when charging, or you’ll destroy them.

I was thinking of putting a Battery-to-Battery charger controller in between. Kind of hard to explain since im so unfamiliar with the terms and so new at this haha; so I've attached an image of basically what im hoping to achieve(but simpler and no ac charger). I think the Lynac Lithium battery would work for my purpose with what you described.
I didnt know about the temperature charging limit so thanks a lot; they also offer a "low temp" version with temperature protection. Not really sure how it works but maybe that could help with below zero degrees C.
Really leaning towards ordering this 12v 100Ah True Series Lynac battery now; ill let yall know when I get it

 

[YMMV]

I was thinking of putting a Battery-to-Battery charger controller in between. Kind of hard to explain since im so unfamiliar with the terms and so new at this haha; so I've attached an image of basically what im hoping to achieve(but simpler and no ac charger). I think the Lynac Lithium battery would work for my purpose with what you described.
I didnt know about the temperature charging limit so thanks a lot; they also offer a "low temp" version with temperature protection. Not really sure how it works but maybe that could help with below zero degrees C.
Really leaning towards ordering this 12v 100Ah True Series Lynac battery now; ill let yall know when I get it

Directly connected, a lithium battery will soak up all the amperage it can get out of a vehicles alternator. That has the potential of overloading the alternator, and possibly shortening its life.

A good DC-DC Charger of the appropriate size will limit the charge current made available to the house/auxiliary battery, will deliver that current at the proper voltage (depending on the battery type), which in turn can help prolong the life of your alternator and protects the battery, wiring, and attached systems. Victron, Sterling Power, Redarc all make high quality DC-DC Chargers of various capacities.

A DC-DC Charger in itself will not protect your alternator. It's important to chose one that will not allow more current to pass than is available so as to not overload the alternator. A friend decided his 30A wasn't big enough, so he replaced it with a 50A version. This however meant he also needed to fit a larger alternator and larger wiring. Spendy!

For a much better and more accurate explanation, Victron has an excellent video on how not to kill your alternator and burn your vehicle.

 

[RF_Burns]

Directly connected, a lithium battery will soak up all the amperage it can get out of a vehicles alternator. That has the potential of overloading the alternator, and possibly shortening its life.

A good DC-DC Charger of the appropriate size will limit the charge current made available to the house/auxiliary battery, will deliver that current at the proper voltage (depending on the battery type), which in turn can help prolong the life of your alternator and protects the battery, wiring, and attached systems. Victron, Sterling Power, Redarc all make high quality DC-DC Chargers of various capacities.

A DC-DC Charger in itself will not protect your alternator. It's important to chose one that will not allow more current to pass than is available so as to not overload the alternator. A friend decided his 30A wasn't big enough, so he replaced it with a 50A version. This however meant he also needed to fit a larger alternator and larger wiring. Spendy!

For a much better and more accurate explanation, Victron has an excellent video on how not to kill your alternator and burn your vehicle.

Victron's video has an issue. They are using an electric motor with a variable speed controller on it and a one to one ratio pulley setup to the alternator so alternator RPM = motor RPM.

The trouble is they are assuming that is the same pulley ratio in a vehicle, but it is not. On their 1500rpm test they state that is above the idle speed of most vehicles, but the vehicle alternator spins much faster than the engine rpm by using a small pulley on the alternator. My RV for example has a 7.5" pulley on the crankshaft and a 2.5" pulley on the alternator for a ratio of 1 to 3. So the alternator spins 3 times faster than the engine. So at 750rpm engine idle, my alternator is spinning at 2250rpm. At cruise the engine runs approximately 2500rpm and the alternator is running at 7500rpm. According to Delco specs, my alternator hits its rated output at 7,000rpm, so that's about right at cruising speed of 100kms/hr.

I do read how a number of people do use their vehicle alternator to charge their batteries when dry camping. I can see this would be a bad thing since the engine is likely just at normal idle and pulling a lot of Amps from the alternator. A small, quiet inverter generator would be a better choice.

I have a Renogy 20Amp DC-DC charger to install when my LFP batteries arrive. I did not notice until I got mine that the unit has a low power mode. I wish I had known that as I would have bought the 40Amp version, then run in on low power mode at 50%. Earlier models had the LC mode at 12.5%.