Cargo trailer build?

[Hooch44v]

I recently purchased a 14'x8.5' vnose cargo trailer. Primarily to carry a side by side and camp in. I have been interested in solar for years but have never built a system. My plan is to fill the roof with panels. I want to know what would be the best system. I've been thinking 24v. My plan is to purchase a roof rack or do it myself. Should I do 12,24, or 48v. Should it be 100 watt panels or larger panels? Also, should it be individual components or an all in one system?

Lastly, my idea is to have a big enough system that could be plugged into the grid on my house. I live in Temecula CA. Would that be legal? If so approx. Cost of the grid tie part. And does that change what type of volt the system needs to be. Also I have 2 Honda generators I want to be able to plug into the system along with shore power. I originally thought I wanted my alternator to be able to charge the system while driving. But if that's a problem I was thinking I could just run the extremely quiet generator while driving. Thanks in advance for imput

 

[Hooch44v]

I recently purchased a 14'x8.5' vnose cargo trailer. Primarily to carry a side by side and camp in. I have been interested in solar for years but have never built a system. My plan is to fill the roof with panels. I want to know what would be the best system. I've been thinking 24v. My plan is to purchase a roof rack or do it myself. Should I do 12,24, or 48v. Should it be 100 watt panels or larger panels? Also, should it be individual components or an all in one system?

Lastly, my idea is to have a big enough system that could be plugged into the grid on my house. I live in Temecula CA. Would that be legal? If so approx. Cost of the grid tie part. And does that change what type of volt the system needs to be. Also I have 2 Honda generators I want to be able to plug into the system along with shore power. I originally thought I wanted my alternator to be able to charge the system while driving. But if that's a problem I was thinking I could just run the extremely quiet generator while driving. Thanks in advance for imput

 

[KBWaldron]

I just put a deposit on a cargo trailer. Similar specs to yours. I’m looking at used 230 watt cells. Many solar farms refresh their panels every 5 years or so. The panels I’m looking at are probably down to 200 watts given their age, and I can get them for $90 Canadian each, less than fifty cents a watt.
I’m going 24 volt, driven by the BYD batteries I recently purchased. Also used at $100USD per kWh.

 

[Hooch44v]

I just put a deposit on a cargo trailer. Similar specs to yours. I’m looking at used 230 watt cells. Many solar farms refresh their panels every 5 years or so. The panels I’m looking at are probably down to 200 watts given their age, and I can get them for $90 Canadian each, less than fifty cents a watt.
I’m going 24 volt, driven by the BYD batteries I recently purchased. Also used at $100USD per kWh.

Thank you where do you purchase the panels and batteries?

 

[KBWaldron]

Thank you where do you purchase the panels and batteries?

The BYD sources are in numerous threads in this forum. Search BYD.
The panels I got on Kijiji.ca, but you likely can find others by searching the web for used solar panels.

 

[bjfields]

I'm also working on a trailer. Here are a few things to consider:

1) I have both a roof a/c and a vent. Consider your internal layout, the appliances on the roof, then figure out the panel layout. I put my a/c where the vent was originally, then boxed for a vent towards the front where I'm putting the cassette toilet and on-demand water heater.

2) I didn't want to drill into my roof or use adhesive. I opted to use SuperStrut on 'L' brackets into the angle iron at the roof line. I used the shallow superstrut. If I had it to do again, I'd use the regular depth. I don't have a great pic with me. I'll update with a pic later.

3) I knew nothing about low temp cutoff before I created the space for my battery. Now I'm reallocating space I intended for other things.

4) I home ran 14ga stranded from around the trailer back to my 12v fuse block. I tend to over do it cuz its harder to do later. In the end, I pulled out all the black (negative) wire and replaced it with a single run of 8ga stranded with 3 bus bars around the perimeter of the trailer. Much neater and it freed up room in the pipe.

If I think of anything else useful, I'll update.

B.

PS - can you stand in there? It seems low...
PPS - Add levelers before you do the floor. I didn't and I'm real sorry about that.

 

[MisterSandals]

I recently purchased a 14'x8.5' vnose cargo trailer.

Thats a nice sized trailer. I would first shop for panels to get as many watts up there as you can. Its a little easier mounting fewer panels but use your Tetris skills and see how different sized panels fit.
Check craigslist in your area and see how the different sized panels can be arranged (and mounted!!!) to maximize the number of watts.
Then before you buy, do a sanity check on which SCC's can handle the volts and amps of your panels. Given how big your system "can be", you will probably have the option to charge a 12, 24 and possibly a 48 volt battery bank.

The roof looks like your only constraint at this point so i would start there and maximize that space.

 

[bjfields]

Regarding grid tie....
I'm gonna bet there are complicated electrical codes that will make it difficult.

That said, why not just add a transfer switch and power inlet as if you were setting up an emergency generator. You could then select a few circuits to power with the trailer while its parked. If you run out of battery / solar, you could just throw the switch back the other way.

...just a thought.

 

[MisterSandals]

If you run out of battery / solar, you could just throw the switch back the other way.

Or leave a single panel connected to the trailer's SCC (to keep the trailer batteries topped off) and route the test to the house's transfer switch (legally of course, if possible).

 

[SolarRat]

With no obstructions, that roof should hopefully fit four large panels. So say ~350w x 4 = 1400w max of panels. You could get by with a 12v system unless you have large loads. I like the higher voltage systems myself, but your solar capacity will limit how they really benefit you, especially above 24v. I started a post about grid-tying a trailer based system a while back...the legality issue is probably going to be a problem...

 

[Ped]

You either need a modest array or you need a massive array because all appliances besides AC can be ran under 2kw a day. Unless you got some odd special need like a gaming computer or whatever.

 

[Hooch44v]

Thanks for the input. If any of u have photos I would love to see them. Ive never seen the superstrut. I was thinking of making my own brackets. Attaching them to the sides at the top. Then using 8020 aluminum to make the rack (very expensive though). If theres not an issue using large panels, I was thinking 4 x 400 watts.

Any input on all individual components vs an all in one system like mpp 24v unit?

I would like to use a dc to DC charger to charge from my tow vehicle. I also have Honda 2200's generators.

No plans to use an AC unit. Maybe just an electric fan like maxair or fantastic.

So in summary. I want to charge from tow vehicle. Charge from generator. Charge from solar and charge from shore. And the panel array will be between 1200 and 1600 watts. Then possibly plug into a transfer switch on house.

Anyone know how much to have the transfer professionally installed in California?

 

[Hooch44v]

Also not sure if u can use just the DC to DC unit to do all these things or would u use a standard charge controller and add the DC to DC somehow. Sorry I'm still learning about all this. I'm extremely diy but electrical stuff slightly intimidates me.

 

[bjfields]

Yes, you've seen superstrut. You just didn't know it had a name. Go to the electrical aisle at Lowes. You buy the rails in 10 foot lengths and whatever other pieces & parts to fit your needs. If you ever played with building toys like Lego, An Erector set, or Lincoln logs, SuperStrut will be completely self explanatory.
Give yourself a little time to stand there and peruse the parts and it will come to you. You can also find youtube videos.
Here ya go.... not the most exciting video, but it'll give you the idea.

 

[Hooch44v]

Yes, you've seen superstrut. You just didn't know it had a name. Go to the electrical aisle at Lowes. You buy the rails in 10 foot lengths and whatever other pieces & parts to fit your needs. If you ever played with building toys like Lego, An Erector set, or Lincoln logs, SuperStrut will be completely self explanatory.
Give yourself a little time to stand there and peruse the parts and it will come to you. You can also find youtube videos.

Thankyou I will!

 

[bjfields]

Not the best image, but zoom into my left hand. You get the idea.

 

[Hooch44v]

Oh ok nice. Seems like a more inexpensive way to accomplish that. Thankyou

 

[bjfields]

i just saw how grainy the image got. Try this.

 

[Hooch44v]

Much better

 

[bjfields]

It was way cheaper and more versatile than buying prefab roof racks from an industrial supply. I also left about 6 inches protruding on the other side so I can mount an awning later.