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Cell terminal bolt torque - you might be wrong!

That’s how I check mine. Starting point is to measure the weight of the handle itself (unless you are using so much weight it’s contribution is in the noise...).

just holding the torque wrench horizontally in a vice (or however) from the drive end and hanging known weights (including the weight of whatever setup is used to hang them) at measured distance from the drive shaft gives a pretty reliable and cheap-and-easy reality-check...
If you want a more accurate method. Get a piece of unistrut and mount a socket extension in the middle. Mount an eye bolt at each end of the unistrut (the same distance from the middle to each end).

Mount the socket wrench in the vise and plug the socket extension into the wrench. Hang weight off one end until you get to the correct torque and verify the reading on the wrench. Then swap the weight to the other end and verify the torque in the opposite direction.

That is essentially how we calibrate lower capacity torque load cells. Except the ends of our torque arm have curved sectors and we use spring steel ribbons instead of rope to ensure we have a constant moment arm distance. Those torque arms are NIST traceable and cost a tremendous amount of money to buy and keep certified. We calibrate torque standards for other manufacturers.
 
I check my torque wrench by stepping into my brother's Snap-On tool truck and using his standard torque device. If any of my Snap-On torque wrenches are off by much, I'll send them back for calibration. So far, none have gone back.
 
I check my torque wrench by stepping into my brother's Snap-On tool truck and using his standard torque device. If any of my Snap-On torque wrenches are off by much, I'll send them back for calibration. So far, none have gone back.
Bet you paid a bit more than $12 for them too.
 
Bet you paid a bit more than $12 for them too.

Yep. I paid the price for trying to extrapolate down using a Craftsman click torque wrench on a transmission. That cost me more than the first Snap-On digital torque wrench that I bought after that incident.

I have a tool problem and I'm OK with that.
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I work primarily on motorcycles and have learned to use the smallest ratchet I possibly can. This practice has saved me from many a stripped bolt hole (steel bolt in an aluminum casting).

I have plenty of 3/8" and 1/2" drive tools, but I use the small 1/4" ratchet or a T handled driver about 90% of the time.
 
Timely thread, thanks. Quick some what related question; is there a consensus on the use of thread lock?
 
If you are using studs, use threadlocker between the stud and terminal. Its easy to have the stud back out when moving cables around, and when you do tighten down the nut it can pull the stud out.
 
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This is probably a bit "off topic" but here goes -

Pray tell How does one use any of these Torque Wrenches to tighten a nut on a grub screw inserted to a cell? How does one hold the Grub Screws from turning in the Cell terminal?
 
How does one hold the Grub Screws from turning in the Cell terminal?

There are two approaches. The first is to locite the stud into the terminal. It won't spin at the torques we are talking about when threadlocker is used.

The second approach requires you to conterhold the stud. This means you need a crows foot adapter for your torque wrench. You need to reduce your torque value by a certain percentage to compensate for the extra length of the adapter.
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OK. Thanks. I was aware of both of these approaches with, IMHO, the crow's foot being the safer method.

Using a crow's foot would modify the torque applied but I'm sure my math skills are sufficient to calculate that effect. I plan on a drop of locktite to be used B4 I torque.
 
Well speak of the devil.


That may be the slowest moving video I have seen in the last decade.
 
This wrench looks interesting.

40 in-lb is almost precisely 4.5 Nm.


Not a click type. You turn it until the indicator points to the torque you want.

This one has a lower bottom torque setting (10 in-lb). That is promising.

 
I think for occasional use one of these is fine. They are reliable and repeatable.

View attachment 34212
My torque wrenchcame in and I used it today to assemble an 8S battery from 280Ah cells.

I have not been hand-tightening my bolts with a Phillips-head screwdriver to anything close to 4Nm / 35inch-lbs (now that I know what level of torque that is).

So I decided to use my new torque wrench to tighten further than I have in the past to 4Nm / 35inch-lbs and while this torque wrench made that pretty straightforward, the bad news is I stripped one thread at around 30 inch-lbs.

I had not carefully inspected all threads before assembling the battery, so it’s possible this one thread was already largely stripped, but while the other 15 terminals needed one last boost at 30-inch-lbs to hit 35inch-lbs / 4Nm, this terminal just kept turning at 30 inch-lbs.

So A, this makes me nervous to exceed 30inch-lbs on any of these aluminum threaded terminals in the future; B, this has convinced me to go with threaded posts (so the aluminum threads in these new cells will only be used once more); and C, I’m eager for advice anyone has for the best way to get a threaded terminal into a stripped terminal.

I’m thinking I’ll get M6 zinc-plated threaded posts if I can find them and I’m thinking I’m going to try self-tapping a 1/4” zinc-plated threaded post into the one stripped terminal, but I’m eager for any advice those who have been down this path before me have to offer...
 
I’m thinking I’ll get M6 zinc-plated threaded posts if I can find them and I’m thinking I’m going to try self-tapping a 1/4” zinc-plated threaded post into the one stripped terminal, but I’m eager for any advice those who have been down this path before me have to offer...

Sorry that happened. I used JB weld, the original stuff, but the jury is till out and will be until I re-assemble my pack. I was able to torque to 3nm. If it holds it should be fine, but my cells will be stationary and I plan on getting ground straps for the interconnects to replace the busbars. From my limited understanding of repairing a stripped terminal, I agree helicoil is the best repair option but others have tapped the terminals to 8mm with success skipping the helicoil. From everything I have read, the thread depth of the terminal is challenging while avoiding going too deep.
 
This is the remnants of my stripped terminal.
 

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Helicoil is the best repair option.
Better than tapping for M8 everywhere and getting M8 grub screws?

Has anyone successfully tapped a 1/4” grub screw into a stripped M6 terminal?
 
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