diy solar

diy solar

Charge Controller shutting off in full sun

Though the cutout issue seems to be limited to the Epever software/hardware?
What are all the other effects to your system you notice at the time of the cutouts? The graph is very difficult to read actual battery V just prior, in the cut-out, and just after.
I fixed any voltage spikes with some super-caps from aliexpress and a relay that cuts off PV input on some panels B@14.9v. High voltage spikes were shutting down my inverter. A possible answer to you and op or anyone else with panels over or approaching the CC power levels
 
be careful swapping over to the ANxxx models. there are significant differences between the AN and BN models, including chassis grounding (positive vs negatively grounded). I strongly suggest sticking with the BN models and just doubling up on the controller. 1 string per mppt. If you do that and follow the other good advice pointed out in this thread, you should be ok. configure your boost time down to 10-20 minutes to see if that resolves your problems going into float. if i understand these epevers correctly they dont go into float after the absorb current drops, they stay in boost for x time after charge voltage is reached. call it quirky but its how they're made. sounds like your controller may have been doing a good job of protecting itself. more tests and observations needed with an understanding of how they operate before you can come to any conclusions. good luck!
 
An update -

I did end up picking up a Tracer 8415AN, I currently only have 4 panels (2s2p) connected as the mc4s on the disconnected panels had moisture on the mc4s that needs to dry before I reconnect them (a big ask in the shade in subzero temps...) The early float issue has resolved, but my panels keep cutting out when they near their max voltage - I am beginning to suspect I had multiple issues going on here.

I am wondering if my mc4 connectors are faulty? They may have been compromised after a bad ice storm. While they are sheltered from the worst of it, it seems melting ice found its way down the cables and refroze on some of the connectors - could the expanding ice have broken the water tight seal and resulted in damage? If this seems a likely culprit, I should be able to replace the mc4's, is that correct? I would of course have them covered with a completely opaque material (cardboard?) before attempting.

Side note: I did discover that the beeping that I thought was the controller was actually my inverter responding to voltage drop as the panels would cut out.
 
An update -
I am wondering if my mc4 connectors are faulty? They may have been compromised after a bad ice storm.
I opened the junction box on the back of the very first solar panel I bought. One of the two wires was not secured, the screw had not been tightened "at all".
I tossed the factory wiring and hard wired 10 awg solar wire into each junction box.
Connection problems solved, forever.

Ya might want to check all your connections and take a peek inside your junction boxes for loose connections.
You may void any warranty by doing so.
 
may have been compromised after a bad ice storm. While they are sheltered from the worst of it, it seems melting ice found its way down the cables and refroze on some of the connectors - could the expanding ice have broken the water tight seal and resulted in damage
This happened to me multiple times here in Vermont.
I bought several dozen Bouge RV MC4s and changed every one. I also sealed the rubber compression ferrule/sleeve with lexel- no issues yet.

My AN50 cuts out during equalize. The Epever seems to not be fast enough responding to high voltage to keep from hitting the max-limit and cutting out. Sounds like yours…I’m probably switching to an mpp solar AIO next week
 
Popping back in to say we found out that the issue is a faulty cell in one battery of our 24v bank triggering the bms upper disconnect. Glad we got to the root cause of the issue, now to try solving it either with warranty repair on the SOK battery or replacing the cell ourselves.
 
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