Charge profile for 6v wired for 12v ?
- Thread starter Kcdaniels
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chrisski
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I can’t download what you attached with my slow internet connection.
If you have a 6 volt profile double that. If not, contact the manufacturer.
For my 12 volt, I charge at 14.7, and I fliat at 13.5. There’s temp compensation. I put my 100/50 profile, but recommend you get specs for your batteries unless you have Trojan Solar SPRE 06-255.
If you have a 6 volt profile double that. If not, contact the manufacturer.
For my 12 volt, I charge at 14.7, and I fliat at 13.5. There’s temp compensation. I put my 100/50 profile, but recommend you get specs for your batteries unless you have Trojan Solar SPRE 06-255.
Kcdaniels
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Thanks for the reply.....I did shoot a email to Duracell but no response as of yet..only been a day so maybe they will get back...searched online with only vague info...
Duracell Ultra BCI Group CG2 6 volt 230 amp hour .... Wired in series for 12 volt.....
Duracell Ultra BCI Group CG2 6 volt 230 amp hour .... Wired in series for 12 volt.....
Kcdaniels
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chrisski
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I can’t say for sure mine are designed for solar and have “smart carbon technology” (whatever those mean).
Charge profiles are probably buried on the Duracell website as a pdf. I may have gotten mine not from the specific battery spec sheet but a general Trojan owners manual.
Im in the RV with a rather slow internet connection so can’t check.
Charge profiles are probably buried on the Duracell website as a pdf. I may have gotten mine not from the specific battery spec sheet but a general Trojan owners manual.
Im in the RV with a rather slow internet connection so can’t check.
Kcdaniels
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Hey no problem.... Thanks for the help ???
Do they look like this East-Penn / Deka? I believe Duracell is a rebadge
Hope that gets you closer.
Hope that gets you closer.
Kcdaniels
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Yes it looks vert similar.... Thank you...will search for those profiles?
Kcdaniels
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With that info I found this....but I'm not sure how to interpret the numbers ???
Attachments
You just hit the motherload! Frame it - put it under your pillow. This reads like a lot when just starting out, but hopefully this WOT will be shortened in your mind.
Maybe this will help - You are a "monobloc", which simply means that you aren't putting individual 2v cells together like an industrial user, or waaaaay advanced hobbiest would. Ie, car batteries are "monoblock" - a bunch of cells already assembled together. You normally don't find / buy individual 2v lead-acid cells.
Same thing here with yours - you don't have physical access to the individual 2v cells, only the series-combination of them already connected internally. Hence monobloc
You are FLOODED. So you can ignore the sealed Gel and AGM columns.
(Understand that your SCC is going to do much of this work for you. For many, they just take note of the CV and Float voltages and set their SCC to that. Later, if you feel so inclined, you can do a full-on EQ, or let your SCC do a mini version by solar. But all this information here is for people that want to do it manually, or make their own SCC controller circuitry follow these rules - if their SCC is actually that flexible)
Max current is 30% of C/20. More easily represented as no more than .3C. Ie, a 100ah batt should get no more than 30A from your panels.
Absorption Stage:
Shows the range of allowable CV (Constant voltage) you set your SCC to depending on whether your system is 12/24/48v. Aka absorb. For a 12v system that would be anywhere from 14.4 to 14.7v
End Condition:
These guys are SMART! You stay in the absorption stage until this condition is met.
Charge until change in current < 0.10A per Hr / Max Time: 12Hr
So this sets you up for deciding when to drop to a float-voltage which follows. Here, instead of trying to watch "tail current" fall to some arbitrary value like .05C, this real-world example is based on a STALL OF TIME. In other words, it simply means if you are in absorb, and you don't notice any further lessening of tail current by 0.1A IN AN HOUR (say going from 0.7a and falling to 0.6A), then you drop to float!
That's the BEST indication that you are done with absorb. A safety-timeout of 12 hours is also indicated if you have no way of observing or measuring it. This all has to do with the real-world aspects of battery aging, IR and other conditions. Hanging out too long in absorb trying to reach an arbitrary "first day manufacturing birth" 2 years later, is harmful!
Now it's up to you to decide - IF I AM A DAILY CYCLER - do I let my SCC drop to float after 2 hours like it wants to (depending on scc timeouts) when the manual says I could go longer based on those other two variables? If so, should I just stay in CV absorb all day until the sun goes down? Should I defeat the premature timeout my SCC performs by setting my float to the same value as a trick? Or, if I can't defeat the timer, should I just run a high float as long as it is within range in the chart?
Or, if I'm just a weekend warrior, more of a standby random thing, just set my scc up for a more conservative approach, because I'll have plenty of time for the batts to soak in some low-current charging over the course of a few days...
The rest is followed similarly. Look at the voltages, note the "end conditions" too. At the bottom of the chart, you'll see the temperature coefficient, which modifies your voltages in the chart itself!
ACKK!! Don't worry - your SCC should have at least an ambient temperature-compensation feature built in. But because lead does not shed or absorb temperature variations quickly, it is BEST to put a remote temperature-compensation probe from your SCC to at least one of the battery terminals directly.
Sorry for the WOT. I just wanted to get most of this out there, so a possible important item didn't get lost.
Maybe this will help - You are a "monobloc", which simply means that you aren't putting individual 2v cells together like an industrial user, or waaaaay advanced hobbiest would. Ie, car batteries are "monoblock" - a bunch of cells already assembled together. You normally don't find / buy individual 2v lead-acid cells.
Same thing here with yours - you don't have physical access to the individual 2v cells, only the series-combination of them already connected internally. Hence monobloc
You are FLOODED. So you can ignore the sealed Gel and AGM columns.
(Understand that your SCC is going to do much of this work for you. For many, they just take note of the CV and Float voltages and set their SCC to that. Later, if you feel so inclined, you can do a full-on EQ, or let your SCC do a mini version by solar. But all this information here is for people that want to do it manually, or make their own SCC controller circuitry follow these rules - if their SCC is actually that flexible)
Max current is 30% of C/20. More easily represented as no more than .3C. Ie, a 100ah batt should get no more than 30A from your panels.
Absorption Stage:
Shows the range of allowable CV (Constant voltage) you set your SCC to depending on whether your system is 12/24/48v. Aka absorb. For a 12v system that would be anywhere from 14.4 to 14.7v
End Condition:
These guys are SMART! You stay in the absorption stage until this condition is met.
Charge until change in current < 0.10A per Hr / Max Time: 12Hr
So this sets you up for deciding when to drop to a float-voltage which follows. Here, instead of trying to watch "tail current" fall to some arbitrary value like .05C, this real-world example is based on a STALL OF TIME. In other words, it simply means if you are in absorb, and you don't notice any further lessening of tail current by 0.1A IN AN HOUR (say going from 0.7a and falling to 0.6A), then you drop to float!
That's the BEST indication that you are done with absorb. A safety-timeout of 12 hours is also indicated if you have no way of observing or measuring it. This all has to do with the real-world aspects of battery aging, IR and other conditions. Hanging out too long in absorb trying to reach an arbitrary "first day manufacturing birth" 2 years later, is harmful!
Now it's up to you to decide - IF I AM A DAILY CYCLER - do I let my SCC drop to float after 2 hours like it wants to (depending on scc timeouts) when the manual says I could go longer based on those other two variables? If so, should I just stay in CV absorb all day until the sun goes down? Should I defeat the premature timeout my SCC performs by setting my float to the same value as a trick? Or, if I can't defeat the timer, should I just run a high float as long as it is within range in the chart?
Or, if I'm just a weekend warrior, more of a standby random thing, just set my scc up for a more conservative approach, because I'll have plenty of time for the batts to soak in some low-current charging over the course of a few days...
The rest is followed similarly. Look at the voltages, note the "end conditions" too. At the bottom of the chart, you'll see the temperature coefficient, which modifies your voltages in the chart itself!
ACKK!! Don't worry - your SCC should have at least an ambient temperature-compensation feature built in. But because lead does not shed or absorb temperature variations quickly, it is BEST to put a remote temperature-compensation probe from your SCC to at least one of the battery terminals directly.
Sorry for the WOT. I just wanted to get most of this out there, so a possible important item didn't get lost.
WATCH that initial first charge due to possible unbalanced condition!
Ie, one of your Duracells is 3 months old. The other 12 months.
Ideally, but probably impractical, would be to charge each with a dedicated 6v charger at least once before putting them in operation serially.
Or, put them in series for 12v, and charge that way - but if they are unbalanced, you could end up with one or more cells getting highly active before the rest reach absorb, so be careful.
If you have no other source than solar, then be sure to give them a long charge over multiple days, maybe a week before you start to cycle it.
Ie, one of your Duracells is 3 months old. The other 12 months.
Ideally, but probably impractical, would be to charge each with a dedicated 6v charger at least once before putting them in operation serially.
Or, put them in series for 12v, and charge that way - but if they are unbalanced, you could end up with one or more cells getting highly active before the rest reach absorb, so be careful.
If you have no other source than solar, then be sure to give them a long charge over multiple days, maybe a week before you start to cycle it.
Kcdaniels
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Thank thank you !!!!!!!!!.....excellent explanation and exactly what I was looking to find...?????.....going to go out and adjust some of the values......
Kcdaniels
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When I first bought them I wired them in series and charged them at 10amp till they were topped off....I only had the 10amp charger ...
Now that the solar is going they have been kept topped off so far for 3 days...hope I didn't screw up..?
Kcdaniels
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Not long winded at all....lots of great info that I couldn't find...thanks...
Getting ready for a 3 month road trip in about 3 weeks so we will put it to work hopefully...?
Next year would like to go down the path of putting together a lithium battery bank...
Getting ready for a 3 month road trip in about 3 weeks so we will put it to work hopefully...?
Next year would like to go down the path of putting together a lithium battery bank...
